DozerII
Well-known member
Got some strength back in it now. [P[P
My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL
- Thread starter Couper
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
Thanks Old Iron!
Dozer....yah, had a hard time getting going again, Full speed ahead!
Hey Guys,
Hope everyone is well all good here. I have fell off the motivation wagon a few times here. I took 10 days off from work and have been on the cab hard. My cowl vent was **** and had to locate a new one. Finally found one from Rick Tudor....also needed a few hinges and he had them too. Hell of a nice guy and really reasonable with his pricing. So I did the 2nd side...door, jams, rocker area ect and it came out awesome. When I went back to look at the first side I did.... not so awesome
(. So I did the first side over and it came out as good as the second. Sounds like I'm getting ready for a who's on first joke huh.... I just got done body working the cowl area and I'm on the home stretch. I like to guide coat block my bare bodywork before primer so it'll be very close. I hoping to get her in epoxy primer the week of the 26th. I don't know if I mentioned before that I switched over to bear claw latches by Hot Rod Latches. Very nice....no need to slam the doors anymore. A few pictures.
Stay Well All
Hope everyone is well all good here. I have fell off the motivation wagon a few times here. I took 10 days off from work and have been on the cab hard. My cowl vent was **** and had to locate a new one. Finally found one from Rick Tudor....also needed a few hinges and he had them too. Hell of a nice guy and really reasonable with his pricing. So I did the 2nd side...door, jams, rocker area ect and it came out awesome. When I went back to look at the first side I did.... not so awesome
(. So I did the first side over and it came out as good as the second. Sounds like I'm getting ready for a who's on first joke huh.... I just got done body working the cowl area and I'm on the home stretch. I like to guide coat block my bare bodywork before primer so it'll be very close. I hoping to get her in epoxy primer the week of the 26th. I don't know if I mentioned before that I switched over to bear claw latches by Hot Rod Latches. Very nice....no need to slam the doors anymore. A few pictures.Stay Well All
Attachments
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Looks like excellent work, Couper.
Skip
Well-known member
Yea. What Bob said. [cl
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
..........[P
Torchie
Well-known member
[cl
[P [P [P
Torchie
[P [P [P
Torchie
BillM
Well-known member
Nice work!
Old Iron
Well-known member
Sometimes ya just have to move yourself to get back on the horse.
Looks great.
Looks great.
Yes! Thanks Old Iron.... Thanks guys! You guys help to motivate me. Once she's in primer I'm going to build a frame so I'll be snoop'in around here and asking some questions.
Couper
Once I have this baby in primer I'm going to start on a frame. I'm hoping you guys can give me some direction. I'm going to mock up a frame using some 2x4. I don't have a floor in the cab yet cause I don't know at what height the trans / drive shaft tunnel will be.... but I do know where the stock mounts were. I don't care much about frame weight and am thinking 2" x 4" x.188 and I would use inside "L" gussets for the rear kick up and and stack the motor frame on top of the cab frame. I'd like to drill a couple holes where the rocker will expose the frame and weld in some pipe to dress it up. I'm thinking one of those dropped axle single leaf spring front ends by total cost involved and not sure about the rear. I suppose I should have the front end / rear end on hand & tire diameters / wooden disc's to get the proper ride height? I would like to have some air bags so I can raise the ride height for driving. That's a lot of nonsense for 1 post but I'm open for idea's from you guys who have done this before. Thanks for reading guys.
Couper
Couper
Oh boy.....I must have over stepped [S
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Sorry you didn't get any help here. Sometimes these posts go by so fast people forget. I'd suggest you look at several of the build threads here. Also look at Rat Rod Bob's most recent build on You Tube.
In my opinion 2" by 4" by .120 wall is enough but heavier is never a problem. I've never done air suspension but thousands have.
Just keep searching You Tube builds and build threads here on UDS.
In my opinion 2" by 4" by .120 wall is enough but heavier is never a problem. I've never done air suspension but thousands have.
Just keep searching You Tube builds and build threads here on UDS.
zzrodder
It ain't grey hair, it's chrome!
I personally think the wood 2x4 mock up is a waste of time, but that's just me...
My fav method for frame layout is to do a full scale side view chalk drawing on the floor. First draw the profile of the cab then a line representing the ground level where you want it all full suspension drop if you are bagging it. Next draw a line representing the bottom edge of the frame rail. I usually put it a couple inches above the floor if you want to lay frame, this allows for tire squish. Now draw the engine/trans in profile, keep the oil pan at or above the bottom of the frame rail for safety. This all allows you to see where the engine sits in relation to the firewall, farther forward makes the trans tunnel smaller, something to consider in a small pickup cab. Now draw the wheels/tires where you want them, think about the front axle position in relation to the engine, you need room to fit the rad, lower and behind the axle looks better, but you also have to think about where the steering will be, tie rod, etc. and if you are using side steering or cross steering. Now you can draw the frame rails, leave some room between the rear kickup and the axle for snubbers. You can now figure out the suspension design, 4 link or ladder bar with Panhard rod, truck arm style, whatever - and where to put the bags and shocks, gas tank, battery, air tank, pump, so on. Easy to just rub it out and make changes 'till it looks right. I actually use the frame drawing as a template to lay the frame pieces on and tack them together, stack both rails together and clamp them so you can get them identically shaped.
This is what works for me, hope it helps..
My fav method for frame layout is to do a full scale side view chalk drawing on the floor. First draw the profile of the cab then a line representing the ground level where you want it all full suspension drop if you are bagging it. Next draw a line representing the bottom edge of the frame rail. I usually put it a couple inches above the floor if you want to lay frame, this allows for tire squish. Now draw the engine/trans in profile, keep the oil pan at or above the bottom of the frame rail for safety. This all allows you to see where the engine sits in relation to the firewall, farther forward makes the trans tunnel smaller, something to consider in a small pickup cab. Now draw the wheels/tires where you want them, think about the front axle position in relation to the engine, you need room to fit the rad, lower and behind the axle looks better, but you also have to think about where the steering will be, tie rod, etc. and if you are using side steering or cross steering. Now you can draw the frame rails, leave some room between the rear kickup and the axle for snubbers. You can now figure out the suspension design, 4 link or ladder bar with Panhard rod, truck arm style, whatever - and where to put the bags and shocks, gas tank, battery, air tank, pump, so on. Easy to just rub it out and make changes 'till it looks right. I actually use the frame drawing as a template to lay the frame pieces on and tack them together, stack both rails together and clamp them so you can get them identically shaped.
This is what works for me, hope it helps..
Thanks Bob.....I'll check out that Youtube and thanks for the tubing input.
I personally think the wood 2x4 mock up is a waste of time, but that's just me...
My fav method for frame layout is to do a full scale side view chalk drawing on the floor. First draw the profile of the cab then a line representing the ground level where you want it all full suspension drop if you are bagging it. Next draw a line representing the bottom edge of the frame rail. I usually put it a couple inches above the floor if you want to lay frame, this allows for tire squish. Now draw the engine/trans in profile, keep the oil pan at or above the bottom of the frame rail for safety. This all allows you to see where the engine sits in relation to the firewall, farther forward makes the trans tunnel smaller, something to consider in a small pickup cab. Now draw the wheels/tires where you want them, think about the front axle position in relation to the engine, you need room to fit the rad, lower and behind the axle looks better, but you also have to think about where the steering will be, tie rod, etc. and if you are using side steering or cross steering. Now you can draw the frame rails, leave some room between the rear kickup and the axle for snubbers. You can now figure out the suspension design, 4 link or ladder bar with Panhard rod, truck arm style, whatever - and where to put the bags and shocks, gas tank, battery, air tank, pump, so on. Easy to just rub it out and make changes 'till it looks right. I actually use the frame drawing as a template to lay the frame pieces on and tack them together, stack both rails together and clamp them so you can get them identically shaped.
This is what works for me, hope it helps..
Thanks ZZ. That's a lot of info to sink in. LOL. I'll go over this tonight when I can concentrate. Thank much!
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Very good information from zz. He's one of the best.[cl
zzrodder
It ain't grey hair, it's chrome!
Tried to find a pic of one of my CAD frame drawings (chalk assisted design ) but all I could find was this one of one of my golf cart frames. Same basic rules apply, just overlay your body outline to it and so on.
Pencil is cheap so give it a shot at drawing your concept out on paper to scale. It can really save you some grief later on, finding out something doesn't fit or looks goofy. My drawings are kinda elementary school level but it gives some sort of an idea of how it could look. This one was a stillborn design, my original concept for my 36 Packard build, never say never......
) but all I could find was this one of one of my golf cart frames. Same basic rules apply, just overlay your body outline to it and so on.Pencil is cheap so give it a shot at drawing your concept out on paper to scale. It can really save you some grief later on, finding out something doesn't fit or looks goofy. My drawings are kinda elementary school level but it gives some sort of an idea of how it could look. This one was a stillborn design, my original concept for my 36 Packard build, never say never......
