new project
- Thread starter NickFish
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Starting to look like a hotrod...[cl
it steers
well i got a little more done on my day off. I cut and tapped the drag link, got my steering box mounted and column in. to my surprise it seems to work. I wanted to go with a cross steering set up, with the spring behind the axle it was a little bit of a pain. I had to bend the steering arms to get the tie rod and drag link low enough to not hit the bottom of the frame when the suspension compresses. I also got my brake pedal assembly tacked it. of course i had to cut up my sub floor that i had just made to get it to fit. sucks to back track
well i got a little more done on my day off. I cut and tapped the drag link, got my steering box mounted and column in. to my surprise it seems to work. I wanted to go with a cross steering set up, with the spring behind the axle it was a little bit of a pain. I had to bend the steering arms to get the tie rod and drag link low enough to not hit the bottom of the frame when the suspension compresses. I also got my brake pedal assembly tacked it. of course i had to cut up my sub floor that i had just made to get it to fit. sucks to back track
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caliper brackets
got some more work done this morning. the caliper brackets I got with this kit from speedway were for spindles with built in steering arms but the spindles that came with it of course did not have steering arms. so there was an issue with the brackets and the steering arms sharing a bolt hole. I guess i could have tried to find a new bracket that just went on the top but what fun is that. so some cutting and welding and problem solved.
I got the gas pedal in as well
got some more work done this morning. the caliper brackets I got with this kit from speedway were for spindles with built in steering arms but the spindles that came with it of course did not have steering arms. so there was an issue with the brackets and the steering arms sharing a bolt hole. I guess i could have tried to find a new bracket that just went on the top but what fun is that. so some cutting and welding and problem solved.
I got the gas pedal in as well
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together and apart
I got to spend a couple good days on the car this week. got my sub floor and body mounts done. also made my radiator mounts. had the car looking like a car. then I pulled it all back apart to weld it all up. I had just tacked every thing to make sure it all fit and worked. I'm going to paint the frame when all the welding is done, a friend suggested por 15. Has any one used this or have any suggestions ? any thoughts would be appreciated
I got to spend a couple good days on the car this week. got my sub floor and body mounts done. also made my radiator mounts. had the car looking like a car. then I pulled it all back apart to weld it all up. I had just tacked every thing to make sure it all fit and worked. I'm going to paint the frame when all the welding is done, a friend suggested por 15. Has any one used this or have any suggestions ? any thoughts would be appreciated
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billy
Motor mouth ratchet jaw!
Por is good but it will turn grey in the sun.
I have used it before and love it.
It makes a good and tough finish
But be aware that it only works on rusty metal.
I have used it before and love it.
It makes a good and tough finish
But be aware that it only works on rusty metal.
I've used POR15. It's pretty good stuff. You can actually use it on fresh steel. You need to use their metal prep on it first though. The stuff is super hard when it's cured so don't get it on anything you don't want it on! Also, the vapors are pretty nasty so you will want a good respirator and plenty of ventilation. They recommend top coating it to keep it from changing color where sun might hit it so you could rattle can over it once it's dry.
Country Misfit
I tell you... I get no respect!
Looking good,I like it.
Benjamin Moore make an industrial paint that you can get in a gloss or semi gloss black. It covers good and is a pretty tough finish. Not as tough as POR15 or SEM Rustshield which are both epoxy based but still very good. Best part is it's about $34 per gallon as opposed to $120 per gallon for SEM. I use it to paint machine parts I make on the side.
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Old Iron
Well-known member
I used Chassis Saver on the under side of the body on my 33 and really liked it. $39 quart
On the chassis, I used epoxy primer along with an inexpensive acrylic enamel semi gloss.
On the chassis, I used epoxy primer along with an inexpensive acrylic enamel semi gloss.
The reason I was looking at por 15 was that I have a bit of surface rust on the frame from sitting around for a while. Do you guys know if these other products are good to go over rust. It might be easier to spend more $ than to wire wheel the whole frame, maybe.
por 15
well i bit the bullet and bought the pro 15. $55 for a quart, and I still have some left. not to bad. I painted the frame, front end, rear end, and suspension components. then I used some self etching primer and flat black paint on the front third of the frame and front end stuff just because it will see some sun. now I,m starting to put it back together with grade 8 hardware and loctite. Im going to do the brake lines next before the motor and body are back on.
well i bit the bullet and bought the pro 15. $55 for a quart, and I still have some left. not to bad. I painted the frame, front end, rear end, and suspension components. then I used some self etching primer and flat black paint on the front third of the frame and front end stuff just because it will see some sun. now I,m starting to put it back together with grade 8 hardware and loctite. Im going to do the brake lines next before the motor and body are back on.
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Old Iron
Well-known member
The Chassis Saver is used the same way as Nickfish suggested.
If it's gonna see sunlight, it needs to be top coated in those areas with paint.
All these types of products go directly over rust. You only have to remove the loose scaly areas.
If it's gonna see sunlight, it needs to be top coated in those areas with paint.
All these types of products go directly over rust. You only have to remove the loose scaly areas.
going back together
Well i got started on getting this thing back together. I ran the brake lines and fuel line then got the motor and tranny back in. Installed the radiator and shroud, and got the head lights on. I took the original head light mount and cut it up into two individual mounts. I was pretty pleased with the out come, its always nice to reuse original parts.
Well i got started on getting this thing back together. I ran the brake lines and fuel line then got the motor and tranny back in. Installed the radiator and shroud, and got the head lights on. I took the original head light mount and cut it up into two individual mounts. I was pretty pleased with the out come, its always nice to reuse original parts.
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thank you. the to do list is getting shorter by the day
