charliebob
Well-known member
Thought some of you might be interested in an experiment comparing PB Blaster (PBB) and Fluid Film (FF), a lanolin based product, for preservation of patina.
Treatments were applied to original rust and paint on a 47 Ford Jailbar cab section.
The first pic is immediately after application, while the second pic is after 71 days outside.
For the first few days, FF is too shiny for my taste, but not bad later. PBB keeps much more of the original rust look.
PBB is much easier to apply than the thick FF, but its water beading capability does not last near as long. After over two months, FF still beads water.
The third pic is after a single treatment of phosphoric acid (Ospho). Phosphoric acid converts iron oxide--rust--into inert ferrric phosphate. As can be seen in the pic, exposed rust is turned white. What surprised me is that it brought out color in the 73 year old paint.
PBB is easy to apply with a spritzer. Excess can be wiped off with a rag. The odor is an effective "social distancer!!" But the odor goes away if left in the sun for a couple of days.
FF is much more pleasant to use, but takes more effort and time to apply.
When I built my 56 Dodge about 5 years ago, I first used CLR and a random orbital sander with a medium Scotch Brite pad. It makes a very messy slurry, but brings out paint that is covered by surface rust. Since then I have treated the truck every few months with PB Blaster (PB). PB is easy to apply with a spritzer, then wipe off excess.
Anyhow, I am switching to FF. The experiment continues, and I have started a second experiment with a first Scotch Brite treatment of CLR and PBB followed a few days later by FF.
Treatments were applied to original rust and paint on a 47 Ford Jailbar cab section.
The first pic is immediately after application, while the second pic is after 71 days outside.
For the first few days, FF is too shiny for my taste, but not bad later. PBB keeps much more of the original rust look.
PBB is much easier to apply than the thick FF, but its water beading capability does not last near as long. After over two months, FF still beads water.
The third pic is after a single treatment of phosphoric acid (Ospho). Phosphoric acid converts iron oxide--rust--into inert ferrric phosphate. As can be seen in the pic, exposed rust is turned white. What surprised me is that it brought out color in the 73 year old paint.
PBB is easy to apply with a spritzer. Excess can be wiped off with a rag. The odor is an effective "social distancer!!" But the odor goes away if left in the sun for a couple of days.
FF is much more pleasant to use, but takes more effort and time to apply.
When I built my 56 Dodge about 5 years ago, I first used CLR and a random orbital sander with a medium Scotch Brite pad. It makes a very messy slurry, but brings out paint that is covered by surface rust. Since then I have treated the truck every few months with PB Blaster (PB). PB is easy to apply with a spritzer, then wipe off excess.
Anyhow, I am switching to FF. The experiment continues, and I have started a second experiment with a first Scotch Brite treatment of CLR and PBB followed a few days later by FF.