Point me in the correct direction

[da_bull]

First rat rod. 1929 Model A Sedan. I built my frame from 2x3x3/16" tubing.
Next step is doing the radius rod rear mount. I've read about the 4-7 degree tilt back on the front axle at ride height. I have the rear axle done to be able to square everything up. Anything else I may need to know? I'll be fabri-cobling something for the air bags in the front (again rear is done). It's just a cruiser (Chevy 250 straight 6, 350 turbo, 97 firebird rear end). Sorry for the sideways pictures, iPhones are stupid sometimes when uploading...

 

[DozerII]

Most everyone one on here says engine down at 3 degrees at ride height diff up 3 degrees. My 440 the intake carb base is level at these settings.

 

[da_bull]

Most everyone one on here says engine down at 3 degrees at ride height diff up 3 degrees. My 440 the intake carb base is level at these settings.

I was talking more about the front drop axle settings, sorry. The motor is already set about 3 degrees down as well as the rear 3 degrees up.

 

[DozerII]

Ok sorry I miss understood. You are correct depending on what you are doing for a steering set up 5-7 is correct. I had a power box and went 7 degrees and the Essex handled great.

 

[da_bull]

Ok sorry I miss understood. You are correct depending on what you are doing for a steering set up 5-7 is correct. I had a power box and went 7 degrees and the Essex handled great.

Leaning super hard towards a reverse Corvair box. A friend a couple counties over is using one for his and it looked fairly simple.

 

[lowbudget50]

5-7°, I normally do 7 also

 

[da_bull]

5-7°, I normally do 7 also

Cool beans. Seems like I got that info from one of your YT videos. I am a subscriber, but havent been able to look through any lately.

 

[lowbudget50]

Cool beans. Seems like I got that info from one of your YT videos. I am a subscriber, but havent been able to look through any lately.

nice, cool to talk to someone who watches!!

 

[da_bull]

nice, cool to talk to someone who watches!!

Cleopatra? I'm pretty sure I have that series bookmarked...

 

[MercuryMac]

It's good to hear that you are paying attention to the camber/caster settings BEFORE you weld the front axle on. I bought a stalled project a few years ago and the previous owner was a really nice welder, but no engineer. My mustang 2 front end is welded on beautifully, but can only go to 0* or -9*. Not good. This car is on the back burner right now so I have time to come up with a solution.

 

[lowbudget50]

Cleopatra? I'm pretty sure I have that series bookmarked...

yeah, thats the one!!

 

[lowbudget50]

It's good to hear that you are paying attention to the camber/caster settings BEFORE you weld the front axle on. I bought a stalled project a few years ago and the previous owner was a really nice welder, but no engineer. My mustang 2 front end is welded on beautifully, but can only go to 0* or -9*. Not good. This car is on the back burner right now so I have time to come up with a solution.

that sucks!!

 

[Old Iron]

When welding the spring perch on put 5 degrees in it that way you'll have adjust-ability without binding the shackles.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

I always disagree on this subject with most here on this board, but agree with lots of guys who build high-speed, good handling cars. 10-12 degrees with proper geometry and alignment will track straight as an arrow at speed, and eliminate the need for the Band-Aid steering stabilizer you see on "death wobble" cars.

Lightweight hot rods don't experience push or any of the "but somebody told me" problems that people who don't have enough experience setting up early Ford front ends will tell you.

Set it at 10 degrees, toe it in 1/8" and you'll have a 100+mph car all day long with two fingers on the wheel. Built too many of 'em for anyone to tell me different. [

 

[da_bull]

When welding the spring perch on put 5 degrees in it that way you'll have adjust-ability without binding the shackles.

I am doing air in all four corners, but that wouldnt be too bad of an idea, so as the air springs will as straight as possible.

 

[da_bull]

I always disagree on this subject with most here on this board, but agree with lots of guys who build high-speed, good handling cars. 10-12 degrees with proper geometry and alignment will track straight as an arrow at speed, and eliminate the need for the Band-Aid steering stabilizer you see on "death wobble" cars.

Lightweight hot rods don't experience push or any of the "but somebody told me" problems that people who don't have enough experience setting up early Ford front ends will tell you.

Set it at 10 degrees, toe it in 1/8" and you'll have a 100+mph car all day long with two fingers on the wheel. Built too many of 'em for anyone to tell me different. [

Since this will more than likely be my "forever car", I'll probably do 7 degrees at the center of the threads at the heim joint at the frame. I would think one could get 2-3 degrees either way, so I could test your theory with relative ease. I dont know if that 250 ci Chevy 6 mated with a 350 turbo will achieve 100mph, lol

 

[smallfoot]

Since this will more than likely be my "forever car", I'll probably do 7 degrees at the center of the threads at the heim joint at the frame. I would think one could get 2-3 degrees either way, so I could test your theory with relative ease. I dont know if that 250 ci Chevy 6 mated with a 350 turbo will achieve 100mph, lol

Yes it will...

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

I am doing air on all four corners.