I have a bunch of 2x3x3/16 thick steel tube, enough to build my frame, but am wondering if I should set it aside and use 2x4 instead. What do you guys recommend? The build will be a relatively short wheelbase (106" or so) typical Z'd frame design, inline 6 cylinder engine/auto trans, transverse spring-over-beam front suspension, 46 Ford bobber truck with a shortened bed. Should I stop worrying and just use the 2x3? Maybe reinforce the area under the cab with a 2nd length of 2x3? What did you use? Thanks in advance.
Rectangular steel tubing, what size/thickness?
- Thread starter BatCave
- Start date
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fuzz
Livin' the rat roddin' lifestyle
I would not worry about using 2x3x3/16 tubing. Should be strong enough for your build. Be sure to get good weld penitration. Brace where you feel it may need it, extra bracing never hurts...good luck and post pictues!!..[P
With your wheelbase, you should be fine. I built a ~108" wheelbase frame for my buddy out of 2"x3"x1/8" (against my will) and it would flex in the middle. The extra thickness might not seem like much, but it greatly helps.
My frame is a little unconventional, but it's 2"x4"x3/16".
My frame is a little unconventional, but it's 2"x4"x3/16".
donsrods
Well-known member
I agree. If your wb was any longer I would suggest the 4 inch, but at 106 with 3/16 wall you will be ok, especially with a 6 cylinder in it.
Don
Don
DJ3100
Well-known member
I believe that the 2 x 3 x 3/16 is strong enough, but it would sure be nice to have some data so we'd KNOW. It would seem that there should be some fairly simple (and free) software to calculate the load, stress, strain and all that good stuff. Anyone found that yet?
I suggest mitering the joints and using fishplates to get maximum stength.
My other concern: will the 3" dimension look too wimpy?
I suggest mitering the joints and using fishplates to get maximum stength.
My other concern: will the 3" dimension look too wimpy?
Yeah, that's a whole other concern. I'm planning to add a wedge-shaped piece of bar stock at the bottom of the frame where it's visible at the front, Maybe drill some progressively larger 'lightening holes' in it too. Maybe I'll go with 2x4 instead though. The 2x3 is keeping me up at night. LoL. Thanks for all the replies guys! Much appreciate it.
donsrods
Well-known member
While you would be ok strength wise with 3 inch, for a body that size 4 will look proportionately nicer. 3 inch is fine for T buckets, etc, but a bigger body makes the 3 inch look spindly IMO. Stay with 3/16 in either case, it isn't much more and you can drill and tap it for non structural items like lines, cables, etc.
Don
Don
remember your math! The extra wall thickness wont add as much stiffness up and down as a taller side wall will (ie 4" vs 3") most 32-37 frame are about 5 1/4" deep in the middle of the frames but only 1 1/2" wide. asthetically they look better taller as well. The 2x3 3 1/16 would work but the 2x4" would be better all around. just my $.02
