removing tapered perch bolts?

[kelseydum]

I am trying to switch my radius rods out from hairpins to wishbones. I have everything undone except the axle brackets. What is the best way to remove the tapered perch bolts (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flat-Top-Axle-Perches,5060.html) without damaging them or the axle. I mainly don't want to have to repaint my axle but if I have to I have to. I'm sure heating it some would work but is there another way? There is a little bit of a lip on the head. Can I use a wrench to twist it out? I haven't tried yet because I don't have the right size wrench ( I can pick one up tomorrow).

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

They shouldn't be stuck that bad if they haven't been in there very long. If you have an air chisel use it to drive them out. If not try a couple whacks with a heavy brass hammer. Leave the nut on the end so you don't booger up the threads...

 

[kelseydum]

Would brass work better than a block of wood? I don't have a brass hammer but my father in law might... or a brass punch maybe.

 

[bob w]

I see you've asked this question over on the H--B. Do a search there for "perch bolts" and you will get several ideas.

 

[kelseydum]

Yeah, I haven't posted a question there in probably a year... but I figured with as many people are over there someone could help out (maybe).

 

[Reverend D]

The brass hammer (or dead blow hammer) would probably work better than a block of wood. The wood absorbs a lot of the impact where at the brass or dead blow hammer won't so more force is transmitted to the part.

Regards,

Rev. D.

 

[kelseydum]

Thanks D, I think I'll run out and borrow a brass hammer.

 

[donsrods]

You can heat the pin and then apply paraffin wax that will suck down into the hole and lubricate it enough to dislodge it. You get paraffin wax in the canning section of grocery stores.

Don

 

[kelseydum]

Wow, thanks Don! I knew there would be more than one way to skin a cat... there always is.

 

[kelseydum]

Yay! I got one out with some penetrating oil and a block of wood turned long ways. I didn't even damage the paint. Now to get the other one out. I'm going to borrow a big wrench to twist the head some if I can and a brass punch (no brass hammer available)... that should break it loose... hopefully.

I'll let ya know how I get the other one out.

 

[Gregster]

you are alot luckier than me , mine had been in since 1937, the torch is a wonderful tool . [ddev

 

[kelseydum]

Removing the perch bolts from the 37 wishbones I'm using was a different story. They were completely seized up and had to be pressed out.

The ones I'm removing now are new and on a new axle so they aren't near as bad.

 

[kelseydum]

Got the other one out today. Let the penetrating oils sit for a few... pounded on it with the brass punch... let it cool down... oil... punch... cool.

It came right out it just took some patience. Didn't mess up a single thread and never scratched the paint. It's nice to have stuff work out once in a while.

One more question about the wishbones. I have an extra tie rod from an f100 or something with what looks like a 5/8 tie rod end. I got the rod ends out. I was wondering if I could just weld these up into the ends of the bones instead of ordering new bungs? They would just be a 5/8 tie rod end instead of an 11/16. Will this be strong enough?

 

[bob w]

Wishbones with spherical rod ends instead of tie rod ends use 5/8", so you should be golden.

 

[kelseydum]

I went out to my father-in-laws to think about the best way to do this. One of my issues is I need to add about 2 inches to the end of the wishbone to reach the existing mount. I WAS going to weld the cut tie rod in the ends (they are already tapped with 5/8 thread but the 5/8 tie rod end has a smaller taper than the 11/16 (which I was previously using). So, I thought of using heim joints instead. Speedway has a 3/4" female heim joint. My father-in-law said to get some 3/4 grade 8 all thread, weld those in to add the length I need and they would have the thread size needed. I chose 3/4 to make sure it's a little sturdier. Now I'll just have to drill out the existing mounting plates for a 5/8" bolt hole. This might make removing the rod ends easier than the tie rod ends (no forked bar to damage the boots or anything).

What do you guys think? Will this work? Does any of this make sense?