Should I buy this Model A

[hillbillyrat]

So, I've been looking for a first project rat rod / low buck hot rod. I posted earlier about a 40 ford truck I'm considering building as a bobber truck. I was contacted by a guy with a 28 or 29 model a sedan that I'm considering. It's out of state so I can't really go check it out myself. The seller sent me some pictures but honestly I can't tell if it is in decent shape. Please let me know your opinions or if you think i need better pictures. Thank you for any guidance you can provide.

 

[hillbillyrat]

here are a few more pics

 

[hillbillyrat]

$2,300 is the asking price. I've only talked to the owner via text but he seems like a nice guy.

 

[Torchie]

Looks like it has the typical Model A lower body area rust issues. Lots of wood in these. Especially in the top. Good things is that most if not all of the sheet metal for these is readily available. The sub frame appears to be in decent shape. At least what is shown.
Some questions for you.

Does it have paper work? Don't know your location but getting a title could be problematic.

How far of a drive? As going to pick it up adds to the cost.

Is it something you really want?

Are you planning on using the frame as well? if not you may be able to find something closer to you. Does it have the PS door? Does he have the windshield frame?

As far as the price goes I have seen a lot worse for a lot more. But that's your call.
Let us know what happens.
Torchie

 

[Willowbilly3]

Not a bad looking tub. Looks like a door is missing. But the price, pretty steep when you think double that would get you one you could drive. Model As aren't worth what they were 10 years ago, by a lot. If I had that car, around here I'd be lucky to get much over $1000 for it.
I vote the 40 and do it a full fendered pickup, one of the best looking vehicles ever and timeless. Bobber trucks are a fad and I'm personally not a huge fan of fads.

 

[lowbudget50]

Pages 1800 for the sedan body we just finished. All the doors and a few extra pieces no windshield frame or paper work. I think its alittle steep

 

[Skip]

I just passed on one for half the price here in Oregon. It was really bad, though. I am now ready to accept the idea that something workable is going to cost me a bit more.

 

[bob w]

Let's look at the economics of a build. Buy the Model A for $2,700. Spend a total of $10,000 on the project. You might say you will spend a lot less but unanticipated costs will surprise you. Okay, wait around for a body that is $2,000. Total cost for the build will be $9,300. If the build takes two years that amounts to $350 a year. It doesn't make a lot of difference if you spend $10,000 or $9,300 over the long haul. If you are really pinched for money you can economize somewhere else.

Disclaimer: there are member here that are excellent scroungers, have a large stash of parts or have the ability to save what to most people would be unsavable. Those guys can build a running rat rod for a lot less money.

 

[von-zipper]

Looks in pretty good shape to me! Bodies like that go for $2000-$2500 in our area but every area is different!

Zipper

 

[DozerII]

Let's look at the economics of a build. Buy the Model A for $2,700. Spend a total of $10,000 on the project. You might say you will spend a lot less but unanticipated costs will surprise you. Okay, wait around for a body that is $2,000. Total cost for the build will be $9,300. If the build takes two years that amounts to $350 a year. It doesn't make a lot of difference if you spend $10,000 or $9,300 over the long haul. If you are really pinched for money you can economize somewhere else.

Disclaimer: there are member here that are excellent scroungers, have a large stash of parts or have the ability to save what to most people would be unsavable. Those guys can build a running rat rod for a lot less money.

That was very well said Bob[cl

 

[Willowbilly3]

Let's look at the economics of a build. Buy the Model A for $2,700. Spend a total of $10,000 on the project. You might say you will spend a lot less but unanticipated costs will surprise you. Okay, wait around for a body that is $2,000. Total cost for the build will be $9,300. If the build takes two years that amounts to $350 a year. It doesn't make a lot of difference if you spend $10,000 or $9,300 over the long haul. If you are really pinched for money you can economize somewhere else.

Disclaimer: there are member here that are excellent scroungers, have a large stash of parts or have the ability to save what to most people would be unsavable. Those guys can build a running rat rod for a lot less money.

Very true. I even advocate a road trip to start with good tin, 10 bucks saved up front is 100 spent later on. But I'm still not seeing that price in the fair market. But local markets and local yokels do dictate prices those of us willing to travel wouldn't pay
And on your disclaimer, yeah, well, the guys who claim they can do it for cheap are not doing stuff like all new shocks, king pins, wheel bearings/seals, new bolts and hardware, wire loom and the fancy little clips to keep everything together.
I'm the king of making whatever I have work and still spent $2500 on the last push to get my rpu done. (that I swore 10 years earlier I could build for $1000,lol)

 

[Bamamav]

NEVER, I say NEVER buy a car based on pics alone! Pics will LIE! Case in point, a few years ago I went 200 miles to look at a 47 Ford Tudor sedan, supposedly a running driving car with a 390 FE and a 3 speed in it. Pics looked great, new paint, interior looked fresh, engine looked clean. Buyer was a older guy, talked good on the phone. Got there, the car was a POS. It hadn't had any bodywork done, it was painted over surface rust, there was even craters in the roof. Engine mounting was questionable at best, exhaust was rotted out sections of flex pipe and straight tubing. Interior was mid grade shade tree work at best, wires hanging everywhere, an attempt at moving the trunk latch ended up with having to climb into the back seat to pull the release cable. The floor shifter was installed wrong, the gears were backwards! After questioning the owner, I found out he had only driven it around the block, in low gear, so he didn't have any idea how it would react on the highway.

He didn't lie, he just didn't tell the whole truth, it was a running, driving car, just not ready for the highway. It would have had to been completely disassembled and built from the ground up again, with complete body and paint work, interior and wiring work to even resemble what he was trying to pass it off as. It wasn't what I wanted at the time so I passed.

I think that is way to high for that body. And his pics aren't that great, either. I know some people just can't take pics, but those are awful, no detail at all, bad lighting, etc. Pics and lighting can hide many things, If I couldn't see it with my own eyes and run my hands over it, I would pass on it. I'd use pics to find a possible candidate, but I will never buy from just a pic.

 

[MercuryMac]

I agree with Bama to a point, those are terrible pictures, so you have to go and look at it yourself.
I also agree with Bob W, your initial payment is a small percentage of what you'll end up paying, so getting a pretty good starting point means you'll have to pay less over the next three years while you're building.
Here's another angle that nobody brings up. You could wait around for two or three years trying to save a few bucks on a good body and miss an opportunity to build a hotrod starting now.
Go and check it out; it might talk to you.

 

[CORPO]

I bought based on pictures.. and it was a bad choice... took a lot of work to fix what couldn't be seen in pictures.. but easily seen in 30 seconds in person

 

[Tripper]

NEVER, I say NEVER buy a car based on pics alone! Pics will LIE!

When I bough my Ranchero on daBay... the pictures looked great! When the car got here it had rusted rocker panels & 1/4 panels. Needless to say.. I was pretty PO'd!!! After that... I want to lay eyes on it!

BoB