Slaughterhouse Customs Coupe update
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slaughterhouse customs
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Toad
Well-known member
I noticed you got ripped on one of the other forums for copying Rick Bobby but Mac's Ratz has been making these frames for years! It's nothing new but yours looks really good and I don't think your stuff looks like Bobby's anyway.
http://www.macsratz.com/images/model%20T%20coupe%20low%20blow%20021.jpg
Toad
http://www.macsratz.com/images/model%20T%20coupe%20low%20blow%20021.jpg
Toad
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Got Rust?
Well-known member
dat's purdy, keep the pic's coming please. [P
slaughterhouse customs
Well-known member
I believe we are the only people leaving half inch lips hanging out of both sides of the frame for each pipe.. Everyone seems to think they need to grind it all down and make the holes flush and we really did do that once and thought that it looked better this way.. Also we paint the inside of our holes and clear our frames not sure if anyone else does that either? The guy your referring to on the other forum is just some local Tennessee guy who had only seen one builder do it and thought he originated the look. Which is why he thought i was copying him by running holes in my frame but yeah your right they have been doing holy frames for a very long time. They just used to not replace the holes with round pipe like we do now.. Originally they were called Lightening holes the pun was they would lighten your car and make it go lightening fast. Original huh
The Rattler
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classiccarprojects
Banned
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God Job man keep up the good work.
Torch
Extremely dangerous with a torch!!!
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Hi,
There's a guy near red Oak IA who builds frames like that style. but he does the grind it flush thing...
Your's Kinda looks like octopus legs, pretty knarly looking.
I noticed on the welds the wire speed is kinda high for the amps your using.
If you made these welds with a stick welder with that lack of penetration you'd have hella slag inclusions.\
Without burning through you need to gouge into the base metal the full width of the weld. when the wire fills the gouge back in, if you have proper penetration, the bead will blend seamlessly and smoothly into the base metal like when 2 water drops come together. you have some areas where that is happening but most of the bead is lopping over at the sides looking like water sitting on a good wax job... which is evidence some of the weld is properly part of the base metal and some of the weld is just metal caulking.
The difference is if the weld bead and the base metal become one like they grew together or if they end up just being stuck together.
It's also possible your feeding the wire into the weld the same direction you'd do with a stick welder. with mig if you push..angle the wire in the direction you welding, it will penetrate. the arc runs in advance of the wire throwing the heat into the base...
if you pull...it will heat the wire faster and pile up on you without burning in as good.
I think stick acts the opposite because of the flux...when you pull with the stick it burns in on the naked side of the rod and the arc blow piles the slag on top of the weld
Now the opposite of that is if your using too much heat and not enough wire speed you will get the good penetration but will end up with an erosion furrow along each side of the weld which will be where a crack forms.
If they go through all the trouble for the holes, why not leave them open?
I haven't seen one done without putting the pipe in... do they crack?
the pipe is adding more weight than was removed by drilling the hole, I always wondered if you could put in the holes and leave them.
If your using 2x4 box or channel, the 4" side web is stressed about 1" from each edge and decreases inward. the rest of the side web in the middle...carries little or no load, it just holds the top and bottom stringer apart.
so with 2x4, 2" holes down the center shouldn't weaken the rail much if at all.
I recall from some engineering research I did into splicing semi truck frames that with any hole drilled into a frame... simply a bolt with washers on either side of the frame and torqued down will restore over 80% of the strength lost by drilling the hole. With the truck frames they do not advise drilling into the side within the thickness of the top or bottom web. they require all holes to be drilled within the center 2/3 of the frame and no holes to be drilled at all in the top or bottom...
This of course is with high tensile C channel frames.
P.S...
I spent a year working as a MGAW welder building these:
There's a guy near red Oak IA who builds frames like that style. but he does the grind it flush thing...
Your's Kinda looks like octopus legs, pretty knarly looking.
I noticed on the welds the wire speed is kinda high for the amps your using.
If you made these welds with a stick welder with that lack of penetration you'd have hella slag inclusions.\
Without burning through you need to gouge into the base metal the full width of the weld. when the wire fills the gouge back in, if you have proper penetration, the bead will blend seamlessly and smoothly into the base metal like when 2 water drops come together. you have some areas where that is happening but most of the bead is lopping over at the sides looking like water sitting on a good wax job... which is evidence some of the weld is properly part of the base metal and some of the weld is just metal caulking.
The difference is if the weld bead and the base metal become one like they grew together or if they end up just being stuck together.
It's also possible your feeding the wire into the weld the same direction you'd do with a stick welder. with mig if you push..angle the wire in the direction you welding, it will penetrate. the arc runs in advance of the wire throwing the heat into the base...
if you pull...it will heat the wire faster and pile up on you without burning in as good.
I think stick acts the opposite because of the flux...when you pull with the stick it burns in on the naked side of the rod and the arc blow piles the slag on top of the weld
Now the opposite of that is if your using too much heat and not enough wire speed you will get the good penetration but will end up with an erosion furrow along each side of the weld which will be where a crack forms.
If they go through all the trouble for the holes, why not leave them open?
I haven't seen one done without putting the pipe in... do they crack?
the pipe is adding more weight than was removed by drilling the hole, I always wondered if you could put in the holes and leave them.
If your using 2x4 box or channel, the 4" side web is stressed about 1" from each edge and decreases inward. the rest of the side web in the middle...carries little or no load, it just holds the top and bottom stringer apart.
so with 2x4, 2" holes down the center shouldn't weaken the rail much if at all.
I recall from some engineering research I did into splicing semi truck frames that with any hole drilled into a frame... simply a bolt with washers on either side of the frame and torqued down will restore over 80% of the strength lost by drilling the hole. With the truck frames they do not advise drilling into the side within the thickness of the top or bottom web. they require all holes to be drilled within the center 2/3 of the frame and no holes to be drilled at all in the top or bottom...
This of course is with high tensile C channel frames.
P.S...
I spent a year working as a MGAW welder building these:
VonHyde
Well-known member
sweet i dig that style. why do you leave the lip?
Torch
Extremely dangerous with a torch!!!
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Here's what I'm talking about...
Here's one of your pictures, I blew up a portion to highlight a 1/2" long section of the weld that is perfect. see how it blends seamlessly into the base metal and doesn't build a mesa?
A good weld is a good weld, it doesn't matter if you use oxy-acetylene, mig, tig or stick. If the technique is on the money you can make that 1/2" of weld 100% all day long. I can do it even all verticle and overhead with the mig but my stick welding is shameful to say the least.
Here's one of your pictures, I blew up a portion to highlight a 1/2" long section of the weld that is perfect. see how it blends seamlessly into the base metal and doesn't build a mesa?
A good weld is a good weld, it doesn't matter if you use oxy-acetylene, mig, tig or stick. If the technique is on the money you can make that 1/2" of weld 100% all day long. I can do it even all verticle and overhead with the mig but my stick welding is shameful to say the least.
Torch
Extremely dangerous with a torch!!!
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- Jul 18, 2008
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- 1,627
Yeah, I've never seen the holes looking all that way before... definitely cool,
I remember what the call it now, the type of bead I was pointing out...
Spray Arc (axial spray) Transfer offers a very stable arc, and a high concentration of inert gas creates a very stable, spatter-free "axial spray" transfer mode. Raising the current level above a critical value, known as the spray transition current, causes the mode of transfer to change and creates a spray of very fine droplets that are formed and detached at the rate of hundreds per second. Transfer occurs as they are accelerated across the arc gap."
Spray arc Transfer is recommended for material thickness of .25" or more
You won't be in spray transfer before 22.5 Volts & you can use up to 90/10 mix to achive spray
Spray transfer is a high voltage and high wire speed process. Uses a solid wire. Requires an argon rich shielding gas. I was taught that the mixture must be at least 90% argon and the remainder is either oxygen or CO2. Oxygen content should never be more than 5%. The gas that I use is 98% argon/ 2% oxygen. Unlike short circuit transfer this metal transfer is a continuous arc process. What this means is once the arc is started the wire never contacts the base metal. Metal transfer occurs across the arc in a cone shaped stream of tiny molten droplets.
I found an awsome pic to show the difference:
The weld on the top is a short circuit weld where your wire runs into the puddle
The weld on the bottom is a spray transfer weld where after initially striking the arc and creating the field, the wire never touches the puddle.
In the bottom weld you will see a 'centerline freeze line' this is the last place the weld cools and it is an positive indication (for spray) that your weld is optimum. It is very much like that indicator you get with certain stick rods where the flux just peals away on its own
I remember what the call it now, the type of bead I was pointing out...
Spray Arc (axial spray) Transfer offers a very stable arc, and a high concentration of inert gas creates a very stable, spatter-free "axial spray" transfer mode. Raising the current level above a critical value, known as the spray transition current, causes the mode of transfer to change and creates a spray of very fine droplets that are formed and detached at the rate of hundreds per second. Transfer occurs as they are accelerated across the arc gap."
Spray arc Transfer is recommended for material thickness of .25" or more
You won't be in spray transfer before 22.5 Volts & you can use up to 90/10 mix to achive spray
Spray transfer is a high voltage and high wire speed process. Uses a solid wire. Requires an argon rich shielding gas. I was taught that the mixture must be at least 90% argon and the remainder is either oxygen or CO2. Oxygen content should never be more than 5%. The gas that I use is 98% argon/ 2% oxygen. Unlike short circuit transfer this metal transfer is a continuous arc process. What this means is once the arc is started the wire never contacts the base metal. Metal transfer occurs across the arc in a cone shaped stream of tiny molten droplets.
I found an awsome pic to show the difference:
The weld on the top is a short circuit weld where your wire runs into the puddle
The weld on the bottom is a spray transfer weld where after initially striking the arc and creating the field, the wire never touches the puddle.
In the bottom weld you will see a 'centerline freeze line' this is the last place the weld cools and it is an positive indication (for spray) that your weld is optimum. It is very much like that indicator you get with certain stick rods where the flux just peals away on its own
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Torch
Extremely dangerous with a torch!!!
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Yeah, more pics. just cuz we picked at your welds a little don't mean we don't like it...it's nice!
RAT FINK
Well-known member
I really liked your last coupe build...this one is looking equally as coool...Nice Frame!!!..Love It!!!
[dr[cl
[dr[clslaughterhouse customs
Well-known member
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Sure like the way the frenched tail lights mimic the frame holes. Lots of interesting details in the whole build. Nice work.
I see you just fell out of favor over at the PORK site.
I see you just fell out of favor over at the PORK site.
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slaughterhouse customs
Well-known member
haha First they said over at the pork site i was copying off of this coupe pictured below and i needed to come up with my own style and stop copying others builds..i scratched my head on that one for awhile and then explained but i built that car? Thats my house its parked in front of? Well that ****ed them off then they said i was just showing pics of that coupe during the build process of that coupe and i currently wasnt building that car it was actually pics of the same car.. Then i pointed out the firewall was different it was 5 inches shorter different chop and different rear suspension..Then they said it wasnt acceptable there?? I said but look at the history of my posts you guys loved my last coupe and this one blows it out of the water? Then i told them they needed to start running their welders and not their mouths then i got booted..[
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Got Rust?
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Think it looks good, bad sports on that other forum I guess, I watch your stuff, so I can figure out my stuff, or what I'm lookn' for
Gregster
Well-known member
Well let's see , I first saw your work on you tube a couple years ago and loved it . You were building good looking stuff in a tiny one car garage , now you are building in a full size shop producing some VERY nice builds and you have been booted from one forum and now you have been given welding lessons on here . I thought I was reading a training manual in trade school . Don't get disapointed in everything , you do some nice work ! [
