spark plug problems

[martin53]

OK let me know what's going on with my spark plugs. I'm planning on using a 1978 slant 6 in my 53 dodge project truck. Need opinions on my spark plugs can I just put new pluggs and wires and be good or can there be something mechanical wrong from this. I started it up the other day and it sounds great no knocks or even problems starting. It did sound like I could hear the lifters though but after warm up it went away plus that was the first time I've started it. Oh and is it normal to use these adapters that they have only one didn't have one and it was the only good plug.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

well it probably didnt run worth a flip with them in there .. the adapters is a non filler .. usually it burned a little oil and kept fileing out the plug . so you put the (adapter) / non filer on it so it dont file it out ... looks like they have been in there for a long time .

 

[ssimpala]

Those "adaptors" are used on a really, really worn out engine to keep oil from fouling out the plugs. You probably need a better engine.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

I had a slant six and it had a rist pin knock or tap in it .. till it warmed up then it went away . I found out which one it was by taking off a plug wire then putting it back on while running till it quit ticking I drove it for years that way , put some stp oil treatment in it , and it may quiet that lifter down a little or if you feel froggy take your valve cover off and see which one is ticking and snug it up a 1/4 round or 1/2 (JMO) you may consult one of our on duty mechanics on her if your not good with the valve stuff .

 

[martin53]

Well I think I'm just gonna use the engine for the summer till I find another. The guy I bought it from said he stop driving it cause the reverse went out but the linkage was messed up. What do you guys thinkshould I just tune it up and would it be a good idea to drive around to a few shows or wait to get another engine.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

if it dont blow smoke like a skeeder spray rig .. drive it till you find another one , but most likely its going to smoke . and use oil..

 

[bruno]

Those "adaptors" are used on a really, really worn out engine to keep oil from fouling out the plugs. You probably need a better engine.

I haven't seen those adapters in years, but from my experience it will be an oil burner and may smoke like a freight train

 

[Old Iron]

Put in new plugs and drive it till you find another engine.
The most common reason the engines needed anti foulers was, the valve guides and seals were bad.
Too much oil would get in the combustion chamber which would foul the plug.
The other reason was, the pistons oil rings were worn out letting oil bypass them into the combustion chambers. This reason was less likely to foul the plugs, unless the oil rings were stuck or broken but, the engine would smoke really bad.
I've had good results just installing new bonnet style valve seals, as a band aid, on engines that were not going to be used very much.

 

[Old Iron]

This plug has the electrode completely burned away. the ground strap is starting to burn away too.

This plugs electrode is burned away

The electrode is burned away on this one and that is carbon between the electrode and ground strap

 

[martin53]

Thanks guys I guys I'm gonna try and replace the valve seals and spark plugs and see what happens.

 

[donsrods]

Yep, those anti fouling adapters were an attempt to keep an oil burning motor from fouling the plugs. They sort of worked, but not for long.

Just for giggles, I would pour a can of Restore in the crankcase with the next oil change. You have nothing to lose and it might buy you some time until you get a better motor or rebuild this one.

In the meantime, you can find out if it is rings or seals by doing a simple test. Take a compression reading on each hole and record it. Then squirt a little motor oil into each cylinder and repeat the test. If compression goes up it is rings, if it doesn't it is valve guides and/or seals.

Don

 

[martin53]

Yep, those anti fouling adapters were an attempt to keep an oil burning motor from fouling the plugs. They sort of worked, but not for long.

Just for giggles, I would pour a can of Restore in the crankcase with the next oil change. You have nothing to lose and it might buy you some time until you get a better motor or rebuild this one.

In the meantime, you can find out if it is rings or seals by doing a simple test. Take a compression reading on each hole and record it. Then squirt a little motor oil into each cylinder and repeat the test. If compression goes up it is rings, if it doesn't it is valve guides and/or seals.

Don

I stop using the foulers it drives and sounds great I'm not loosing oil. But still want to figure out why the foulers were used. I'm going to do a compression test soon just wondering what should the compression be at and if the compression is good would I just need to change valve seals. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[soltz]

My rule of thumb is 125psi but what is more important from a running point of view is the difference between cylinders. one at 125 and one a 150 would give a bit of rough idle. High compression engines would be higher reading.
Just my 2 cents worth
"If it ain't broke don't fix it"

 

[Tripper]

Looks like you really had a 3 cylinder!? [ddd

BoB

 

[Toad]

I think you're supposed to change plugs at least once every 10 years or so!

Toad

 

[junker39]

If it's not smoking and the plugs tend to foul up after a good while, try running a step or two "hotter" heat range plug. Those anti-foulers are not the best thing for running good or economy.