The 40G

[Mike S.]

After making a ton of changes to my mock-up, I finally started the real thing. I pinched the front rails 3 degrees and ended up running the rear rails horizontally and square. The rear is setup so I can run either a parallel four-link with a panhard bar, or a triangulated four-link with the lower links being angled (satchell link) since I need the room behind the cab for the radiator. The fuel cell will go behind the rear end. Eventually, I will put angled kickers that tie the ends of the crossmember to the front rails. So far so good, I think.[

 

[RAT IHC]

Looking good Mike. Get that thing welded up and take some pictures![[ Great to see you making some more progress...keep it going!

-Troy

 

[Mike S.]

Looking good Mike. Get that thing welded up and take some pictures![[ Great to see you making some more progress...keep it going!

-Troy

Thanks Troy, I appreciate it. I've been chipping away at small things lately, mostly design, decision and collecting parts. It is nice to make some progress.

 

[CORPO]

looking good man!

 

[Mike S.]

looking good man!

Thanks Corpo, I appreciate it. I'd like to be further along but it's the age old delima... I gotta work for hot rod money but when I work for hot rod money I am too busy to work on my hot rod!

 

[Mike S.]

So, I'd like some opinions if you would. I always planned to do the ubiquitous 4" to 3" forward taper on my front rails. The other night I was working on my front spring crossmember and I initially centered it within the rail, in other words, half way up the 4" side of the rail. I took a step back and thought it looked pretty good. I would still round-off and cap the ends. I've included a picture of both centered and raised up to the top as it would be if I tapered the rails. So, what do you think? Too bulky or unfinished looking? Or is it too hard to tell by these pictures? Thanks.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

Raise it to the top and taper the bottom of the rail up to meet it. It would give the rails some shape, especially from the profile. Not so bulky and "square-tube" looking. Of course round and cap the ends.

 

[Snake Farm]

Hey Mike, anything happening ?

[P[P

 

[Mike S.]

Hey Mike, anything happening ?

[P[P

Hi Snake, I haven't had much time to work on my truck but I have been chipping away at the chassis, especially the rear suspension. So far I've gone through several designs but all haven't worked due to packaging issues. Long story short... I am going with a parallel 4-link. It's taken a while to get together since I've made all of the tabs except the axle brackets. My machinist friend cut them for me. So, I've got the rear suspension basically together; next step is coilovers, crossmembers, taper the front rails and final welding. I'll keep the updates coming! I appreciate your interest.

 

[hillbillie hotrods]

Wicked biuld i love the chop and i like the way you raked the front frame rails upward towards the front mine are the same way with 6 degrees .

Can you post some detailed pix of the clamps you made for your chop , i like the idea and i am going to chop my roof on my 41 ford , i would like to use the same clamps as you did , so maybe a step by step on how to make them.

Thanks

 

[Mike S.]

Thanks for the compliment Hillbillie, I appreciate it.

Yeah, the clamps made a huge difference while chopping my GMC. I did the entire chop by myself and I couldn't have without those. When I started to make them I was having problems cutting the slot straight in the tubing so I made a little table saw fixture for my cut-off tool. It really speeds up the process and the adjustable fence allows a precise cut. Obviously a fixture like that isn't necessary to build clamps but I love building stuff! The bodies are 1" tubing, the bolts are slotted 3/4" #8s, the round stock is 1/4"x1" and the tabs are 18 gauge sheet metal leftover from a 1940 Chevy that I chopped. I was going to use wing nuts on the bolts but it was way cheaper to use nuts and washers and I use a nut driver to cinch them down. One thing I realized was you have to be careful not to over tighten the clamps or you risk raising the two edges of the seam which can lead to a lot of grinding. I hope this helps and good luck with your chop!

 

[Mike S.]

I didn't have much time but I did get my links mocked up. The fixed-end bushings aren't in since I haven't finish welded the links yet but everything seems to line up well so far.

 

[Sunnybeach]

I really like the table saw fixture. Nice work on the frame, it looks good.

 

[chipper]

VERY COOL WORK I just went through the whole thread and your detail on the chop will help me a lot when I get to the 46 I have on the burner.. hats off to ya ! chip..........

 

[hillbillie hotrods]

Thanks for the compliment Hillbillie, I appreciate it.

Yeah, the clamps made a huge difference while chopping my GMC. I did the entire chop by myself and I couldn't have without those. When I started to make them I was having problems cutting the slot straight in the tubing so I made a little table saw fixture for my cut-off tool. It really speeds up the process and the adjustable fence allows a precise cut. Obviously a fixture like that isn't necessary to build clamps but I love building stuff! The bodies are 1" tubing, the bolts are slotted 3/4" #8s, the round stock is 1/4"x1" and the tabs are 18 gauge sheet metal leftover from a 1940 Chevy that I chopped. I was going to use wing nuts on the bolts but it was way cheaper to use nuts and washers and I use a nut driver to cinch them down. One thing I realized was you have to be careful not to over tighten the clamps or you risk raising the two edges of the seam which can lead to a lot of grinding. I hope this helps and good luck with your chop!

Thank you , what do you think of instead of the flat pieace of metal welded to the bolt and the slot thru the square tube do you think drilling a hole thru the tube and put the bolt thru the tube and use a thick washer and nut to pull the 2 together to skez , do you think that will work the same ??

 

[jfg455]

Thank you , what do you think of instead of the flat pieace of metal welded to the bolt and the slot thru the square tube do you think drilling a hole thru the tube and put the bolt thru the tube and use a thick washer and nut to pull the 2 together to skez , do you think that will work the same ??

Then you have to have a hole in your work to put the bolt through due to how wide it is. With the sheet metal you can have the nice tight gap of a 1/16" or so and just slide the clamp along the seem to where ever you want it.

 

[hillbillie hotrods]

Then you have to have a hole in your work to put the bolt through due to how wide it is. With the sheet metal you can have the nice tight gap of a 1/16" or so and just slide the clamp along the seem to where ever you want it.

Thank you , that makes alot of sence

 

[Mike S.]

I really like the table saw fixture. Nice work on the frame, it looks good.

Thank you Sunnybeach. It would probably be a roller by now if I would stop changing my mind on everything!

VERY COOL WORK I just went through the whole thread and your detail on the chop will help me a lot when I get to the 46 I have on the burner.. hats off to ya ! chip..........

Thank you Chip. I have 483 pictures so far including some more of the chop. Let me know if you'd like to see any others. Good luck on you '46!

 

[LUCKY DEVIL 13]

Lookin' good bro!!! [cl [P [

 

[old man dave]

Your frame looks like a back halved drag car. Cool!!!!!!!!!!