35Mastr
Mastr Blastr
Motor sounds real good.But I wanna hear 3rd and 4th gear too.
The Bonehead Truck Build
- Thread starter Bonehead
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
luckyfasteddie
Banned
- Joined
- May 12, 2007
- Messages
- 219
THATS IT ! Monday i get rid of this dial up system and get high speed so i can watch these, See that Jeff you pushed me over the edge again Thanks man LFE
Bonehead
Skull Master
3RD GEAR:
Remember when you used to ride in Grandpa's truck and the tranny would whine, as you went down the road? Then He would reach over to shift and push the clutch, and slowly feel for the gear, pop it in, with a total clutch time of about 10 seconds. That's what mine needs. Speed shifting for 3rd, all I get is a grinding noise, and frustration. Sancro is out, and when you find 3rd, and try to run in it, sometimes it jumps out of third. When driving it, I usually skip 3rd gear, and go to 4th. But running hard, that doesnt sound very impressive. I can double clutch and get the gear, but that is slow too.
When I bought the donor truck it ran, but the bent rear end kept me from test driving it, so I stuck the tranny in with out trying it out. I am keeping my eye open for an old 4 speed. Anybody know anything about an auto trans for the 292?
Remember when you used to ride in Grandpa's truck and the tranny would whine, as you went down the road? Then He would reach over to shift and push the clutch, and slowly feel for the gear, pop it in, with a total clutch time of about 10 seconds. That's what mine needs. Speed shifting for 3rd, all I get is a grinding noise, and frustration. Sancro is out, and when you find 3rd, and try to run in it, sometimes it jumps out of third. When driving it, I usually skip 3rd gear, and go to 4th. But running hard, that doesnt sound very impressive. I can double clutch and get the gear, but that is slow too.
When I bought the donor truck it ran, but the bent rear end kept me from test driving it, so I stuck the tranny in with out trying it out. I am keeping my eye open for an old 4 speed. Anybody know anything about an auto trans for the 292?
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440shorty
Well-known member
transmissions...
Just say "no" to automatics!
(Unless your back injury makes pushing the clutch too painful)
There are several options for an automatic, including, but not limited to:
(1) A Fordomatic or Cruisomatic that came behind a Y-block - both cast iron 3-speed boat anchors with removable bellhousings.
(2) An FMX, which is a later (through '79) much more obtainable cast iron 3-speed boat anchor, but you will still need the Y-block bellhousing and the proper torque converter.
(3) There is available a new aftermarket bellhousing that adapts a C4 (also a three speed, but aluminum) transmission to the Y-block and allows the use of a later-model (read= normal) starter. http://www.ford-y-block.com/c4adapt.htm
OR, you can update with a common Mustang T5 five speed AND get overdrive in the bargain, with this adapter: http://www.ford-y-block.com/truckt5.htm
Personally, I'd keep the stick, and upgrade to a five-speed!
440shorty
Just say "no" to automatics!
(Unless your back injury makes pushing the clutch too painful)
There are several options for an automatic, including, but not limited to:
(1) A Fordomatic or Cruisomatic that came behind a Y-block - both cast iron 3-speed boat anchors with removable bellhousings.
(2) An FMX, which is a later (through '79) much more obtainable cast iron 3-speed boat anchor, but you will still need the Y-block bellhousing and the proper torque converter.
(3) There is available a new aftermarket bellhousing that adapts a C4 (also a three speed, but aluminum) transmission to the Y-block and allows the use of a later-model (read= normal) starter. http://www.ford-y-block.com/c4adapt.htm
OR, you can update with a common Mustang T5 five speed AND get overdrive in the bargain, with this adapter: http://www.ford-y-block.com/truckt5.htm
Personally, I'd keep the stick, and upgrade to a five-speed!
440shorty
Bonehead
Skull Master
Oh Great, too many options! Okay, I'll think about keeping the stick.
Hey, thanks for all the great info, I appreciate it very much.
Hey, thanks for all the great info, I appreciate it very much.
Bonehead
Skull Master
Okay, now it is time to be honest. There are things that work well on this truck, and there are things that do not. There are also things that have already been tore up and changed.
The biggest "tore up, and changed" thing, was the rear springs. It was my second year at the Moab, Utah car show. It was a friend of ours' birthday, and she wanted a ride in my truck. I had been cruising a little, but the stop and go traffic had been heating me up enough that I had parked it and was watching the rest of the show cruise by. The cops were doing their job and guys were getting stopped for chirpping tires.
I gave her a ride in the truck. Down the main drag, past all the people in lawn chairs, took a right, past the cop who had somebody stopped. A quick right on the next block. Now a block off the main drag, with no other cars or people to worry about. I stopped and took off hard, then I gave it the gas and let off. As the suspension recovered, I gassed it hard and launched hard! Usually I get the start of a wheelie at that point, but it just stayed level and took off down the street. The first bump in the road, I knew something was wrong. We ran the back road, and cut in through the grocery store. Back to the main drag. Stop and go traffic until we came back to where we had started. Antifreeze dripping out the overflow, I went to the back end. That's where the trouble was. I could see both air shocks were bent about 4 inches out of a straight line. Underneath, both rear springs had kinks just behind the front mounts. The shocks had the suspension locked up tight. I couldn't even bounce the rear of the truck. It made for a hard ride home.
Now the good news, I built the rear driveshaft myself, and it had held up with no problems through hundreds of hard launch take offs.
More Good news, I had a set of heavy duty springs sitting at home that bolted right in. The new springs ride a little harder than the old ones. I was able to put an anti wrap spring in the stack also. But I raised the front mounts to the next pre-drilled hole, to lower the truck, after the new springs had raised it.
No air shocks now, but I found a nice matched old set among my junk, I mean collection.
The biggest "tore up, and changed" thing, was the rear springs. It was my second year at the Moab, Utah car show. It was a friend of ours' birthday, and she wanted a ride in my truck. I had been cruising a little, but the stop and go traffic had been heating me up enough that I had parked it and was watching the rest of the show cruise by. The cops were doing their job and guys were getting stopped for chirpping tires.
I gave her a ride in the truck. Down the main drag, past all the people in lawn chairs, took a right, past the cop who had somebody stopped. A quick right on the next block. Now a block off the main drag, with no other cars or people to worry about. I stopped and took off hard, then I gave it the gas and let off. As the suspension recovered, I gassed it hard and launched hard! Usually I get the start of a wheelie at that point, but it just stayed level and took off down the street. The first bump in the road, I knew something was wrong. We ran the back road, and cut in through the grocery store. Back to the main drag. Stop and go traffic until we came back to where we had started. Antifreeze dripping out the overflow, I went to the back end. That's where the trouble was. I could see both air shocks were bent about 4 inches out of a straight line. Underneath, both rear springs had kinks just behind the front mounts. The shocks had the suspension locked up tight. I couldn't even bounce the rear of the truck. It made for a hard ride home.
Now the good news, I built the rear driveshaft myself, and it had held up with no problems through hundreds of hard launch take offs.
More Good news, I had a set of heavy duty springs sitting at home that bolted right in. The new springs ride a little harder than the old ones. I was able to put an anti wrap spring in the stack also. But I raised the front mounts to the next pre-drilled hole, to lower the truck, after the new springs had raised it.
No air shocks now, but I found a nice matched old set among my junk, I mean collection.
sakustoms
Well-known member
Damn that's some power to bend the rear springs and shocks. So what is the height compared to before now with the new springs? Any pics of bent suspension?
And just glad that nobody got hurt.
And just glad that nobody got hurt.
Bonehead
Skull Master
It is really the big traction, it hooks up great. If I spin the tires dry it is about 2-3 feet, then it goes. Wet they spin a little more. The 292 seems to have a lot of low end torque, kind of like the straight 6s of the day. With a granny low and 4:11 gears the 33 inch tall tires don't make a difference.
joehalford01
'Vette brake specialist!
those videos rock! i'm exhausted from working all day buti think i have to go out and work my truck some more now 
thanks a lot!
thanks a lot!
sakustoms
Well-known member
Makes sense especially if you launch at high rpm's. Remember, torque can be your friend. lol
Gastrick
One of the Dirty Dozen!
Bonehead, I've read about your leaf spring woes and wanted to ask you something. Are you running any type of spring sliders or housing floaters? If you are running leaf springs with ladder bars or a 4-link without such a device, the springs will bind during suspension travel. Check the link below. I've made my own before. It's pretty easy. I'm at work and can't see your pics on this computer. If you are already using such a device or something similar (mine were different), disregard my last statements.
http://chassisengineering.com/shopDetails.asp?CatId=10&SubCatId=28&ProductId=1148
http://chassisengineering.com/shopDetails.asp?CatId=10&SubCatId=28&ProductId=1148
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Bonehead
Skull Master
I was not running ladder bars, thats why I got so much axle wrap that my springs bent. The replacements have a military wrap on the forwrd eyes. (Ie, the second spring in the stack wraps the eye of the first spring.) Also on the new springs, I put in a long half spring that goes forward, with a heavy poly snubber on the end. When the axle trys to wrap the snubber comes up to the frame. (I am not sure what that is called) I think this solves my problem. It is hard to drive it and watch the suspension work, but I can't see where the axle is wrapping like it was.
I am however interested in learning more. How do these floaters work,(attach and cycle)?
I am however interested in learning more. How do these floaters work,(attach and cycle)?
Gastrick
One of the Dirty Dozen!
Okay Bonehead, I just wanted to make sure. Here's a pic that is closer in appearance to the ones I made for a Camaro drag car I had a while back. It's really just a matter of loosely sandwiching the leaf spring between it's mounting pads so that it is allowed front to rear movement during suspension arc. If the leaf spring is rigidly mounted when used with ladder bars or a 4-link, the system binds. Note in the pic that a provision for the locating dowel remains.
Bonehead
Skull Master
Ah, I see. Is this what most of the drag guys are doing?(without a 4 link) And What do you think about the way I am set up now. And what is that half spring that goes forward with a rubber snubber called? I am still open to change on the rear especialy with my new found back problems. Mainly because My truck may not axle wrap now, but I am not sure the ride is soft enough. I'd like to make it okay to drive around in, and still be able to romp on it every now and then.
Bonehead
Skull Master
The neighbor brought over his grandson to see my hotrod today, sorry guys still no pics of the steering wheel. Dark and rainy here today. But I did think of you guys and thought I would offer this gem;
41Rat
Active member
Thats a killer truck. You done some awesome work.
Bonehead
Skull Master
Thanks, I like yours too. Something about biggas back tires.
antihuman81
Active member
about how much metal did you have to add to the roof on the chop? just curious, oh and i really like this truck of yours.
Bonehead
Skull Master
About 2 inches across the top. Then I used the cut out pieces of the upright to add the same to the window sections of the upper door.
luckyfasteddie
Banned
- Joined
- May 12, 2007
- Messages
- 219
Isnt it about time for everybodys favorite truck to have a name? LFE
