Top Chopping Tip

[Sniper]

Sellers Equip. could you please explain that one more time, I have a 35 Ford I'm getting ready to do, and I didn't quite understand that up the drip rail & over clamp it together thing. Obviously you have this down. Please teach me.

I think what he is saying is put a step or jog in the cut seam. That way, when the roof is pulled apart or stretched, the horizontal cut seams act as a self alignment. The horizontal cuts would have to be at 90 degree's from the long cut across the roof, and the long cut across has to be square with the roof, or you will see the horizontal seams either open up, or start to close and possibly over lap. Try it with a sheet of paper, pretending that it is roof section. You will see what will happen if you just wing it, or have the cuts out of whack a bit compared to measuring it out, and making sure it's all square before hand. It's a good idea, one that I'm going to be using myself. Thanks Sellers Equipped, a timely tip!

 

[Sellers Equipped]

Heres a link to view pics I'm doing another 36 right now

http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/vehicles/71827

 

[Gastrick]

Thanks for the photos and link Sellers.

 

[bob w]

Very nice work. Next chop I do, this will be my guide.

 

[jfg455]

question for sellers equip; I have a 35 cab that somone has already started (I have to take it apart and fix it) that looks like the same amount of chop that you have. Did the front section have to be pinched to line up on the A pillars? is that why the center fore and aft split? Thanks in advance and very nice work![P

 

[VonHyde]

sweet i wish i would have done that, but good tip for next time

 

[hotwheels]

Here's my chopping the top thread, you may find it helpful: http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16617

 

[Sellers Equipped]

question for sellers equip; I have a 35 cab that somone has already started (I have to take it apart and fix it) that looks like the same amount of chop that you have. Did the front section have to be pinched to line up on the A pillars? is that why the center fore and aft split? Thanks in advance and very nice work![P

yes, it is sectioned down the middle as well as slicing the rear door jambs to align with the taper to the roof, no need to relieve corners

 

[34leep]

sweet.what kinda front end set up is that ? never seen that .

 

[jtwilson]

def use that tip thanks

 

[Skip]

OK, boyz and gurlz. Here's an idea that I came up with while recovering from stabbing myself in the back of the hand with a sawsall. (no drugs involved) It seem to work. I sketched lots of lines on the cab. I haven't seen this kind of a chop mentioned anywhere. Not in Tex Smith's book. Not here. I find it hard to believe I am coming up with an original idea here.

Can anyone blow a hole in this theory?

1. I measured the across the windshield on my '38 Ford PU. There is a zone that stays the same width for about 3.5 inches, mostly just below the center line.
2. I marked both ends of that zone.
3. I measured back to the find the center of a circle that would have both points on the arc. (a bit of high school geometry) That point is on the back of the door opening almost exactly between the top two ribs of the belt line.
4. If I use that point as a pivot point and cut across the back of the cab, leaving the front of the b-pillar attached and using it as a hinge, the top will pivot whatever amount I cut out of the windshield post and the two pieces of the windshield post will match up perfectly. No spreading needed.

The windshield will still be straight. I think! If not, it should be close enough for the windshield to still fit and seal.

The back of the cab will be rocked forward about an inch at the top, starting just above the beltline.

There will be a bit of a gap to fill across the back of course, but this seems like a lot less work than cuttint the top in four pieces, and glewing it all back together.

When the top hinges forward, the roof line will drop in the front, but not noticably in the back. It will get a bit of what Tex Smith referrs to as a bald head look, If I take the entire 3.5 inches out, but I can not see any other down side.

The doors will amount to taking an equal amount out of the front pollar, and cutting a wedge out of the inside of the lower back corner.

So, gang, help me out here. Am I missing anything?

I do kinda' woneder if a 3-1/2 inch chop is even worth all the work. It would be fun, though.