Wamego: 1949 GMC 150

[joedoh]

torchie you would be amazed how many guys still want to pound on old stuff! ask the local parts store.

had to trim the air directors and core support and even the frame horns a bit more, so I pulled the clip back off.

while I had my head out of my butt getting some air, I remembered that I had mismatched body mounts on the cab. lining up the front clip with various mounts didnt seem like a great idea. I had bought new energy suspension mounts a little while ago so I popped them on.
IMG_0929 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

after the trim everything went together like butter. well, almost.

IMG_0932 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0933 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0934 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0935 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0936 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

here is the problem. the accident damage in the core support made things out of line.
IMG_0937 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

the bottom crossbar lined up with the sway bar so it looked straight enough, but the top fender mount was wagged back.

IMG_0939 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I sat and thought about my options. I dont have a torch. pounding on it with a sledge didnt appeal to me. in the end I decided that I could cut the uprights and bend them individually after using a prybar to get the core straight.

IMG_0940 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0941 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

elapsed time: 10 minutes, no disassembly required, everything fits.

I popped the 'new' hood on for a look too, it sits too high in the back on the drivers side because of a dent in the top (from falling over, the hired help denies knowledge), I am going to build a panel tweaking tool but everything else looks right so tomorrow I should have the core support mounted and a good start on the rad/condensor mount.

IMG_0942 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0943 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0944 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


look at how mean that stance is. I cant wait to order wheels. the bottom of the fender is only about 3" off the ground, the new tire size will make it almost an inch higher. hell yes.

 

[Old Iron]

Mmmmmm I like it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[soltz]

Mmmmmmmmm! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said [cl
[P

 

[Burgerman]

Yep! What they said! [dr. [cl

 

[joedoh]

thanks!

well I got what I wanted done today, front clip leveled and mounted. its just tacks right now till I can flip the front end and weld the bottoms/ add legs to the frame mounts, but because its in compression, I can lay on the core support and it doesnt budge. that lower cross bar tack came loose yesterday when I was prying on the upper mount, so dont look at it for level, I tacked it back but obviously not square.

I went with cantilever mounts outboard of the frame, I know they will fit with the tires because I have done this mod once before. I would have put them closer to the core support but I want all the room I can get to install the condenser and rad. I cut the inner so its still removable, I could have bolted it but this worked better welded.

IMG_0946-1 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
55735205623__FAD495E8-257F-4B3F-B809-7EABEF0E2800-1 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0955 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

had a nice brain fart, I was tacking the drivers side in and the mount tacked to the frame fine but the weld was spluttery and useless on the core. turns out having the ground clamp on the frame mount meant there was no ground path to the core haha. I only swore twice before figuring it out.

 

[Burgerman]

Can you zoom out those two tacked mount photos Joe. Bigger view be nice. [P

 

[joedoh]

yeah i can get a better pic tomorrow but for now here is the one I forgot marked up a little. the mounts are on the back side of the air director in the circled area, the arrow points roughly at where the flat of the frame mount is.
IMG_0954 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

 

[Burgerman]

That helps. I'm working on front clip mounts...like what you're doin.

 

[joedoh]

That helps. I'm working on front clip mounts...like what you're doin.

a lot of guys will just use an L bracket or some angle and solid mount the front, but I think thats tough on the rad. plus the bushing kits I buy always come with 6 bushings, so its an easy decision

 

[BillM]

Wow Joe - nice work and tremendous progress!

Thanks for the inspiration - my '48 Thriftmaster is waiting patiently for a similar treatment

 

[Old Iron]

Which supplier do you like to buy your kits from and what comes in the kit?

 

[joedoh]

on the 41-46 I Use the energy suspension kit for the 71-83 camaros, this kit is just the 82-03 s10 std cab kit. its bushings only so you still need the steel parts from an s10

BillM I like using as much of the s10 as I can, waste not want not haha

 

[Old Iron]

Thx

 

[joedoh]

I took yesterday off for the holiday of bbq and family, so that left me free on labor day to work!

got the mounts moved in 1 1/2" on each side. there was at least 2" of clearance on the current tires, and the new tires are 2" larger diameter so 1 only more inch closer (radii), but I decided that I didnt want something simple NOW open-hand slapping my nuts LATER when everything is harder to get to.

IMG_1001 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_1002 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I had the holes cut for the rad but its supposed to rain some more this week so I started on the bed. I used the forklift to yank the metal floor out after cutting all the tack welds, then cut the center out and took off the aprons and stub running boards, and cut some rough wheel arches in the bed sides. then I trimmed the s10 floor to 50 inches, and put the bed on the truck first and then the s10 floor in the middle. thats where I stopped today, its not done by a long shot but at least its all there ready to be adjusted and welded.

IMG_0996 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0997 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0998 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0999 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_1003 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_1005 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_1007 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_1008 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


as I am typing this, it is raining BUCKETS, so I am glad its all inside and ready to be adjusted/welded. poor spiders on that wood had a safe haven under the steel, and now they are drowning.

more to come

 

[Old Iron]

poor little things. They're just tying to make a living [ddd

 

[joedoh]

there were hundreds of them under the steel sheet

I forgot to cut the angle pieces on the bed sides so most of the morning was pulling the s10 floor back OUT, then putting it back IN. after that I got it adjusted with jacks till it was level on the frame. the running board apron is just clamped on there to line it all up.

IMG_1013 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I measure 6 ways of sunday but what really helps is some distance. walk away and look, you would be surprised to know you can spot a misalignment of even 1/8" side to side.

IMG_1016 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I adjusted till it all looked right and tacked it in. I closed the gap on the bed a little and put the rear wheels just a 1/2" back, I like it better than a big gap at the cab like I had on the last 49. I doubt anyone will notice (although I just got done telling you that you can spot even 1/8"!).

IMG_1014 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_1019 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

the running board/apron isnt jack up in position,I was showing my wife that it was part of the truck now, bolted down and at least tacked.

IMG_1017 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_1018 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


the running board is at 8 inches and the front fender is at 5, so I am thinking I need a 2" block, but I will wait till the bed is complete and has wood/tailgate etc. the springs should settle a little too.

IMG_1021 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

someone asked on the last one why I wasnt fully welding the bed floor to the bed sides, I do use long ~2" tacks about every 4 or 5 inches but I dont like burning the paint off the outside of the bed, its very visible. I do use a seam sealer that can grip a little but if you think of the forces on the bed, bending the bed sides outward is very hard to do, most of the force from a bed load is going to be straight down. the original wood was bolted to the angle on the bed side and that was IT, the straight down load was handled by the crossbars and the wood planks, which were bolted down at the rear but I weld in a piece to the floor and the bed to join them.

tomorrow is the rad mount and various mounts for things under the hood like the fuse/distribution box. should go fast as long as I have enough 18ga sheet. the die on my nibbler broke! so I have to cut it all by hand.

 

[Torchie]

Box looks great.[cl
Real good progress.
[P [P [P
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

Good job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like to use the rear rivet on the fenders as the center line for the rear end.
The tire doesn't sit so far forward in the fender well that way.

 

[joedoh]

thanks, I always heard to CENTER it between the rivets. looks right on in your picture

 

[smallfoot]

Looking good joedoh!