Working with aluminum?

[BigIrish]

That is a good idea. I'll probably make use of something like that on the hood and maybe a panel in the back to access the gas tank. Everything else is going to be easy to reach since the car will be so simple.

 

[jfg455]

OK I finally figured out a solution. Apparently they make a pop rivet that when finished looks just like an old school solid rivet. Used for reparing Airstreams, old truck cabs etc that were orig assembled using solid rivets. You have to buy a tool that shaves the head nicely after installation, but seems like it will look good when done. So this is what I plan on using:

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Olympic_Rivets_p/vts-179.htm

Stay tuned!

thats a cool idea! [P

 

[BigIrish]

Picked up some 5052 alum sheets .0403" thick. What is the best hand tool to use to cut this stuff and make clean cuts? I usually use a cut off wheel for everything, but I assume that doesn't work real well on aluminum.

 

[pistolpete]

Used to use a cut off wheel to cut it at my old job (wasnt exactly 5052 though). It would gum up a bit into the blade but not that bad. Found if you used a good zip disc in a grinder it would make pretty light work of it as well, but stay clear of the cheap zip discs as I found they made more of a mess then it was worth.

 

[Sniper]

I've used a utility knife on 45 thou sheet. You have to make two or three pulls across to get it to score deep enough. Bend it up and down along the score mark a couple of times and it seperates quite cleanly. Clamp it between a couple of 1x4 or 2x4 or what ever is handy, and use it as your straight edge to guide your scoring cut. Hand shears tend to curl the piece your cutting off, if it's narrow and has any length to it. The score and bend method works quite well. Watch anybody who does aluminum siding or window capping and that's how it's done. Their material is thinner and softer so they generally can do the score in one swipe, but it's still the same approach.

 

[BigIrish]

What about for making curved cuts? I was thinking a jig saw with a metal blade? I won't have too many straight edges on this unfortunately

 

[pistolpete]

I have used a jigsaw but for what I was doing finish quality wasnt a real concern to it ended up pretty hacked. You can't really put any force behind the saw it seems it would jam into the alum and bend it and make a real rough edge. Also make sure the sheet of alum is supported fairly well, like real close to the cutting edge if not the saw will tend to grab and again make a real rough edge. I am sure you will do this but, I would almost take a small corner of your sheet that you know you won't need and do a few practice cuts just to get the feel for it.

It sounds funny but I have heard that using a little pam (I am sure other oils would work too) on the aluminum and blade while your cutting will help keep the blade from gummin up.[S

 

[Sniper]

No...the knife bit won't work for you on curves. Jigsaw, like Pistolpete suggested or maybe nibblers. I have a new air powered nibbler that takes about a 3/32 wide cut while the electric set is wide at about 5/32 or 3/16. Both work well enough and are great for curves and short runs but tend to wander a bit on a long cut even with a straight edge or guide. I haven't used the air ones on aluminum yet, just sheet steel. Regardless of the tool used, if it has a shoe for it rest/glide on, pad it with masking tape, or you'll get scratches and marks as it vibrates along the cut, especially on aluminum.

 

[bob w]

Here's what I have been using as I do the aluminum work on my Fiat. On 5052 .040 and .050 straight cuts are done with the large snips on the right. If the cut is zig zag, it cut close with the large snips and make the final cut with the aircraft snips. On the .050 6061 aluminum I use a .045 thick cut off wheel in a 4 1/2" angle grinder. I have poor results with a jigsaw.

 

[Screamin' Metal]

Well on thin alum. its best to use a pr of air shears that are sharp, will zip right through it. I will sometimes use a super-thin slicer wheel on a 4 1/2 grinder. Just after you mark your lines, get a plastic cup, fill it about 1/2 way with WD-40 and bruch it on the alum. sheet and on the wheel.
Cut a little, stop, put a little on the wheel with the brush. I put a little coolmist setup on my safety guard on my 4 1/2 grinder that way it sprays while I cut....just don't force it. IF it should load up some, have something heavy and metal handy that you can rub your slicer wheel on....and the gum will shed right off....Hope this helps.
When I just wanna go it fast....I just use my ESAB 650 Powercut Plasma.[P[

 

[jfg455]

When I just wanna go it fast....I just use my ESAB 650 Powercut Plasma.[P[

Cheater! I , ah.... have a ah..... *cough* hypertherm 380 *cough*...[ddev

 

[Sniper]

I've heard of using a router, but have never tried it, so I just kind of forgot all about it. Here's a paragraph or two from an airplane builder on the subject.

 

[jfg455]

A good friend of mine has a CNC router and we cut up to 1/4" aluminum on it. it just take 6 passes for the thicker stuff

 

[BigIrish]

Lots of good ideas - thanks everyone.

 

[BigIrish]

Ok now that I've got most of the sheetmetal done, I need to figure out what would be best to sand/scuff it with in order to give it a satin look. Shiny is fine, but I have a lot of fine scratches in it from sliding around while bending & cutting the metal. I'd like to hide those.

1000 grit? Scotch-brite?

 

[patina]

Too lazy to read through and see if it was posted but if ur hammering alumium sheeting use ur torches to make the black soot on that way it wont crack

 

[cornfield customs]

patina, what you are talking about is anealing the aluminum. but the black soot is only half of the process. you use a smokey flame to apply the soot, then use a rosebud tip to slowly heat up the panel evenly till the soot burns off, then the panel is properly anealed and ready to be worked.

 

[patina]

Yeah i couldnt rember the process watchedan old timer do it.... Only seen it once... Kind figured some one would chime in. Im only a youngin

 

[Sam_Fear]

Ok now that I've got most of the sheetmetal done, I need to figure out what would be best to sand/scuff it with in order to give it a satin look. Shiny is fine, but I have a lot of fine scratches in it from sliding around while bending & cutting the metal. I'd like to hide those.

1000 grit? Scotch-brite?

Do you mean brushed aluminum? Isn't that done with a brass brush or wheel?

Maybe try using a gritty paste like Go-Jo or lapping compound on a used up buffer pad. Or drive it a lot and let the bugs buff the scratches out!

 

[cornfield customs]

to give it a good brushed look, take a gray scotch and some paint prep paste, which is like hand soap with pumice in it and go one direction only. if you go back and forth it looks scuffed up not brushed