International L122 B Binder Rat Build

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Awesome trip!!! I always wondered how those two bars worked. If that truck is in as good of shape as it looks, you can prolly part it out and recoup 1/2 the $$$ out here in the "rust belt" the bed would probably bring $500 and $100 for each door, then if someone wanted a cab that's got a good title or decent interior, you might get close to $1000 if you don't mind it setting around.....otherwise you'll get about $250 for scrap lol.

So I gotta ask....did you show him pics of the Rat??? What'd he think of your plans?
 
Awesome trip!!! I always wondered how those two bars worked. If that truck is in as good of shape as it looks, you can prolly part it out and recoup 1/2 the $$$ out here in the "rust belt" the bed would probably bring $500 and $100 for each door, then if someone wanted a cab that's got a good title or decent interior, you might get close to $1000 if you don't mind it setting around.....otherwise you'll get about $250 for scrap lol.

So I gotta ask....did you show him pics of the Rat??? What'd he think of your plans?

That was actually the plan....to part it out.
The bed is a little rough on the passenger side and he straightened it out. Still savable, will needs some love. He actually had a bed he was going to give me, but I was too excited to drive away with the thing to remember to grab it. I was going to take the factory wheels and tires too since these tires have only 4k miles on them and are in great shape. Wheels are actually pretty nice too.
Cab is in good shape as are the doors. Not sire how to advertise the truck as part out, unless I list each item separately on ebay, which could get cumbersome.
Cab is in great shape and has a clean title. Everything in the truck worked, which was impressive by itself.
My neighbors will really love me for having a truck on the side of the house slowly disappearing :)

I think ill be robbing the fuel canister, power brake booster, power steering pump and steering box for the rat. I wasn't really planning on power steering and brakes, but since the equipment is here, might as well make use of it.
Plus with the additional weight of the cummins up front, and wide tires, it'll be nice to have power.


To be completely honest, I feel bad ripping the truck apart. Kinda grew on my the 600 miles I actually drove it. I love the stance, and have always loved that body style. I tend to get an emotional attachment to vehicles. Must be a guy thing.
Feels like ill be hacking up a close friend to sell off. :rolleyes:


I told the seller about the rat rod. He seemed slightly interested in it, but not as interested as some folks I tell about it. Ill send him pictures and videos once its all done and im sure he'll love the thing. :)
 
Do you all out west not use Craigslist??? That's how we sell everything on the east coast. It's like an online listing for anything forsale in whatever city you list as your home area. Craigslist and all the trader/picker pages that you can join on Facebook......I've never sold anything on eBay. Much easier to just list parts and have them come get it OR meet them at the local gas station so they don't even have to know where you live.......it'd take years for me to build a ratrod without all the local listings and horse traders around here. Makes it easy to flip cars/parts for quicker cash and less headache too.
 
Do you all out west not use Craigslist??? That's how we sell everything on the east coast. It's like an online listing for anything forsale in whatever city you list as your home area. Craigslist and all the trader/picker pages that you can join on Facebook......I've never sold anything on eBay. Much easier to just list parts and have them come get it OR meet them at the local gas station so they don't even have to know where you live.......it'd take years for me to build a ratrod without all the local listings and horse traders around here. Makes it easy to flip cars/parts for quicker cash and less headache too.

Yes we do. I frequent craigsliat for parts and stuff, and sometimes selling, but craigaliat selling it a PITA. Half the people are all "will you take 1/4 your asking price" or when it comes time to actually meet, they're late, then late again, then no show completely. I'm consistently amazed at how flakey people are.

When I find something I want to buy on CL, I contact seller, setup time to see it, show up when I say I will, haggle price at that time if I feel there is room, then buy/leave. Everyone else's time is worth just as much as mine, and I'm not interested in wasting theirs. This is not a common frame of mind around here :/

I will likely list on CL for now, but previous posts mentioned rust belt interest, so I might get a better audience from ebay.

P.s. This is the first vehicle purchase I have ever done on eBay, and honestly, the first actual auction I compeated on in years. Most of my buys are "buy it now" auctions, and for this transaction it was 5 days of pure anxioity :rolleyes:
 
Fun Time

As for ebay you should be able to post it under parts and show a pic. of the whole thing and add "parting out" with a list of the big stuff and let them ask questions via ebay questions. You can also put "local pickup only"
Good luck and you build sounds great [cl Lost of pictures please.
 
Well I've been driving the "new" donor truck off and on for a bit now. Gotta tell ya, at this altitude, with such large injectors, it smokes like a freight train from a stop!
While that might be cool for a minute, it won't do. This thing NEEDS compound turbos, that's for sure!
Still trying to figure out what setup to use. I'm thinking an HX30/HX40 setup as these have been done and seem to work well.
It has a pretty nasty power steering leak, which isn't a leak at all. The pump reservoir is right below the injection pump and you can only get two fingers in there to get the cap on/off. I took the cap off cause the steering got real stiff so wanted to check the fluid.
Couldn't get the cap back on :confused:
Waited till daylight and looked at it again. Apparently the lip the cap is to grab was crushed to fit on the engine, so the cap never really grabs.
Not a huge problem down the road once the motor is pulled and I can reconfigure the neck setup. But for now, it's a problem.

Reached out to Scheid Deisel to have them price a full RQV (on road) governor conversion for the a-pump. Not cheap, but I'll send the whole pump off and let them do a full disassembly and adjustment/rebuild on this pump while they convert, so it'll be worth in and provide peace of mind once it's back.
That should allow for easier tuning as well as make the truck more street friendly.

Kicking around the idea of going full manual valve body on the 47re to eliminate the need for more electronics. Nothing on the truck will be computer controled, so I'm not sure it makes sense to make the trans computer controled. However, the idea of being able to set my own shift points and different "programs" sounds awfully tempting. Not sure which way to go on that one. Both are pricy options.

Neighbor friend (who flips cars) bought himself a VW Beetle yesterday. Apparently he already owned it a few years back and regreated selling it back then, so he got it back.......4 owners later.
It has an Espar Gasoline fired heater, which is the first I've seen. Pretty sweet little heater. He said he's ripping it out and could have it if I wanted it. Thought it would make for an awesome heater in the Binder. I'd likely use the factory heater box for defrost, since I'll need defrost, and the factory heater is just too cool NOT to have in the truck!
Use the gas heater as foot/dash vent heat. I've got an old gas can I'd mount in the bed just for the heater. Mount the heater under the bed floor and duct into the cab. From what I hear, these things crank the heat pretty well. People just have fear of them blowing up. Just means I'll keep a fire extinguisher on the truck :cool:

Like I said, I can't continue with the build till I get this motorcycle build complete. But I'm not sure that means I can't get the donor truck running well with the new injection pump and compounds setup to test out before the swap :rolleyes:
 
Sounds like you need a manual transmission. Easy to change the shift points with those. And no computer.

Well yes, that would be the easy way out :D
But my thoughts all along were to have this one as an auto, so the boss if the house can drive it. And since I have a 6 speed in the DD already, and change is nice.
Ya know, with a manual valve body, it half manual, half auto. Ya know, not a FULL commitment :) but the option for full commitment is there :rolleyes:
 
Well suppose it's time for an update. You guys have learned by now this project has slowed to a crawl :(

The previous 4BT out of the donor ram 1500 got pulled. I spent the money for a soda blaster from Eastwood since I wanted to clean this engine up and paint it.
I then bought a small greenhouse to contain the dust the soda would make. Rigged up air movement, and needed to filter the hazed air leaving the containment so built some duct work with those fancy outdoor water minsters installed in it.
Worked like a charm.

I stripped the engine down, pulled the head to inspect the Pistons and cylinder walls. All looked pretty stinkin good.
Masked everything off, plugged all the holes and got to blasting.

The black spray paint previous owner painted with came off easy, but the original tan from cummins was proving to be a chore.
It also had a solo layer of oil in some spots but the blaster made quick work of that.
I get down to the side of the block and come across some sort of sealant smeared all the way across the very bottom of the block above the pan rail.
As soon as I hit it, I knew what I was dealing with.
Soda wasn't touching it so broke the chisel and hoped for the best.
Started scraping and uncovered gold metal............weld filler.
Crap!

Turns out the block had a crack from front to back above the pan rail. Of course I was not told this.
I reached out to the seller, which I suspected wouldn't return calls, but he did.
He said he knew nothing of the crack as he bought the engine as is and tossed it in the truck and called it good.
I verified this by his build thread on other forums which depicted the truck getting the swap and the engine was already painted black and oil covered.

He said he talked to the farmer ache bought it from and he said on of his laborers had run into the engine with a fork lift and cracked it. He took it somewhere that "fixed" it. He used it for a couple years before deciding to sell it.

Well, anyone who knows welding knows engine blocks are tough to properly repair, and grinding a chamfer and welding up a bead just doesn't cut it.
This was made apparent by the signs of the cracks propagating outside of the filler metal now.
Honestly, I'm surprised the block lasted this long. It obviously had leaks indicated from the silicone smeared all over it.
My plans were to juice the engine up a but with injection pump tuning, injectors and compound turbos. With that plan ahead, I didn't feel comfortable using this engine.
Yep, another roadblock. :mad:
So now I have a fancy iron paperweight in the shop I don't know what to do with. I COULD buy a new block, but the engine serial number for the engine shows this engine came from Case equipment, and cummins sells the rights to all their engines that goes into case equipment.
Talking to Case, they can't identify what exact engine this is off the provided ESN. Stuck again.
There are hundreds of variants of these engines all built for different applications and rather then rolling the dice on the parts hoping they would work, I decided to out this one aside for now.

I've been searching ebay and Craigslist for quite sometime for a 4BT with little luck.
There is a seller on eBay that sells these religiously, but my research online about him was disheartening and I choose not to work with him.
So the search was still on.

Finally I stumbled across a single line add, with no pictures. Didn't seem promising, but made the call anyways.
Talked to the guy and he sounded legit so decided to take the hour trip up north to look at it.
He had pulled this one out of a Grumman bread truck to use for a 4x4 project. This is great because these particular engines come with the coveted p-pump injection pump. They a re rated for higher factory horsepower (120) and are much more tunable for higher power levels. My reads indicate this factory pimp with the proper mods can fuel enough to support 500hp on the top end.
Great news!
So I decide to pull the trigger on ANOTHER FREAKIN ENGINE.
I ask him how we can load it, and he says he has a skid steer on the farm.
He leaves and roll up about 20 minutes later with a skid with 1 broken bead wheel and hay tines on the front :eek:

Needless to say, it took us almost 2 hours to remove said engine from the pickup bed he had it stored in, and into my truck (with a brand new $3k topper).
It was quite sketchy to say the least. I wish I had video of it cause it HAD to be entertaining to anyone watching.

So now this thing is in the truck and home. Now to figure out how to unload it.
This thing is 800lbs dry, and kinda sorta strapped to a half failing wood pallet, and not at all stable in the back of the truck.
So I enlisted the neighbor to come help unload.
http://youtu.be/S6bjppEYmjk

After all that fun, I mounted the engine on the engine stand, rigged up the battery and fuel and am now working on getting it to fire.
These trucks are a nightmare to bleed the fuel system out if you get air in it. I've gotten it to pop a few times, but not totally light.

So anyways, there you have it. I'm nearly done on the mortorcycle project for my buddy so I can get cracking on this again.
I've actually told him his bike needs GONE ASAP! I'm itching BAD to get back to work.
 
So whatcha gunna do with the cracked junk one? It would slide into my Jeep...I'll just keep drilling and welding as it goes![cl
 
So whatcha gunna do with the cracked junk one? It would slide into my Jeep...I'll just keep drilling and welding as it goes![cl

Honestly, not sure yet. I'd like to think I'll find a block somewhere and build it up.......but based off my progress on my projects........that'll be 38 years from now!
Thought about selling it, but wouldn't get much for it the way it sits.
 
I tried for a while to get diesel #2 to start on the engine stand but couldn't get it. It would pop a few times with ether, but just wouldn't light off.
I spent a lot of time trying to bleed the air from the injector lines, but just couldn't get it.
I decided to try changing the lift pump. Cracked block diesel had a known good lift pump, so I snagged it, hooked it up to this one, and with only about 10 revolutions, it fired!!!!!
http://youtu.be/KuS_lngxSlA
 
Me either
This is all I get

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Well, buddy's bike is going slow. He was supposed to drop off parts last week after work for the exhaust work. Didn't happen. So I decided to drag the rat back into the garage so I can get crackin on it again.
After the house chores last night I decided to take my last break for the night before hitting the sack.
While looking over the rat, I figured I could pull the olds 350 and 709r4 in prep to stab the new engine/trans combo.
Then decided I might as well see if the engine fit the engine compartment.
So the 47re and 4bt made it into the hole.
It fits! Perfectly in fact. Like I built the truck for the combo.
Can't ask for much better then that!

And the best part is, I can start the engine as it sits now...... And say the rat rod now runs! [cl
Kinda cheating, but whatever.




Disregard the ABS intake charge tubing. I just put that in place to get the engine fired to assure it works.


 
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Good to see the binder back in your shop. And good to see everything fits regarding the new power plant and trans. Watched the video of the unload and wondered if you were just going to romp on it and drop her right in the driveway. I knew better but it kept me watching till the end.
Carry on.
 

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