1931 Chevy 4door into pickup.

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So, not much going on at the Endicott place aside from working on the rear of this car. I don't really like what is offered as far as 4 links go so instead, I built my own. Took from Monday until yesterday to do it all but I think it's well worth the time. Gonna make this car stand out from a lot of others. Anyhow, it's not really modern bit it's not really retro either. Just kind of a mixture of both. And yes, I have checked clearances. With the axle touching the frame, oh yeah, she'll drop pretty low, no binding. With the frame lifted 8" higher, no binding so I'd say she's good to go. Next off will be working on the panhard bar. I really wanted to run a watts link but clearance issues won't let me. So I'll have to run a panhard mounted to the yoke support of my 8". Anyhow, cause I've been rambling on enough, some pictures for your enjoyment, criticism, or general inspiration.













 
Not really a fan of drilling holes anymore Soltz, love welding though. I guess that's why I'm a welder by trade. I figured since I did all the lightening holes in the frame I should just continue the theme. Panhard bar will be done the same as will the front of the frame and the front suspension. May even cut holes into the axle. I'll know when I get around to it.
 
Got my panhard bar built and installed. Holes were just a little off so I had to remake my axle bracket. Turned out pretty well. Holes are a bit larger than the control arms but looks good nonetheless. Also finally got around to putting in all the 5/16 bolts and nuts. Adds just enough "shiny" to the boring rusted metal.





Now it's on to te front end until I order up my air ride stuff. Oh yeah, this things gonna ride like the high end car that donated the engine.
 
So, I couldn't just let her sit until tires come in lol. Put the front axle under the frame and it isn't gonna work. Sits up too high at static level. Just doesnt look right, and we all know it's all about the perfect stance. So, my solution is to do it just like the rear end. I've cut the 1/8" plate out to the design and height it needs to be. Should give me about 4" between the axle and frame with the frame on the floor. Here's some pics cause I'm sure most everyone else is visual like me.

As you see, way too high under the frame. Only gives me 1" of clearance. Give or take.



Not that great of a picture but it's snowing today and I didn't wanna open the garage door too far.



And here you can tell that the axle is at the same height as the frame.



And here's my solution. Well, the start of it. I'll take it to work with me tonight and start drilling holes(they have a way nicer drill press than I do.)

 
Beginning of the front 4 bars. Really wish there were a way to make em look like this and adjustable. Oh well, just have to double and triple check caster angle before I weld up the rear brackets permanently. Gonna take them to work with me tomorrow night so I can ream out the larger holes to where they need to be and then wash them in one of our industrial parts washers.

 
Why not make a sliding adjustment bracket on the frame? Bars could be solid mounted to it, then the bracket would bolt to a slotted hole in another bracket attached to the frame.
 
Use an offset bushing in one end. Then you can spin the bushing to do the alignment...[P
 
Well, somehow I screwed up my measurements and had to spin the mounting bracket far enough forward to get the tie rod to clear the crank pulley. But, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I figured out how to get the lower 4 bars to adjust. The plan is, still a 1" hole dead center into a piece of pipe, then insert a weld bung, and finally use a 4 bar end. Should give me the adjustability that I need. Also mounted my rear air bags, well sort of. they're tacked into place ready to be welded in fully. I'll get some pictures up tomorrow.
 

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