Chevy/Reo?

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'' Now debating whether to paint it black like the top or nickel plate the molding so it stands out and acts as a separator between the body color and the "vinyl" top.''

leaving it the nickel plate look good and makes it seem not so much the removable top look on the truck your'e going for.

Later :cool:
 
" I say Robert W, I would adorn the trim work around the Bonnet of your fixed head coupe' with a precious metal, say of a nickel substance." [cl
 

Thanks for your interest in this project, guys. Initially I might save a buck and just shoot some clear on the bare metal moldings. I put some flat black on the faux vinyl and it looks good except for the seams in the back panel.
Picked up the tinted Rustoleum and other painting supplies today. All the tin should get painted this week. If there's any experienced Rustoleum sprayers here, let me know what your keys to a good paint job are.
I did something stupid Saturday, actually probably many things. But one of them caused a stinger at the base of my neck. Lots of pain Saturday night and all day Sunday. It's getting better now, fortunately.
 
I vote nickel.

jfg455, in the English parlance you are tying to mimic. " bonnets" are hoods, boots are trunks, and convertibles are drop tops........etc.

Lol! yea I knew that but I couldn't remember what the tops were called...[S
 
I was wrong too on the drop top. convert top are referred to as hoods.

more brit sh!t, sedan is a saloon, which I thought were fer drinking, and finally, they call fenders, wings. gives whole new meaning to "hot wings"
 

Well, the paint was a flyin' round the garage today. Kona brown Rustoleum oil base machine paint. Thinned with 6 oz of acetone to 1 quart of paint. Used an old Rockford 451 primer gun. The regulator on my compressor is broken so I just throttle the valve back to 60 psi (at the broken regulator). Used about a 75% overlap, one coat only. Brown covers well. Only put 2 quarts total on the body, doors, hood, side panels and frame covers. I don't mind if it is thin in places and rubs through. But right now it looks well covered.
 

A better look at the color. I s'pose to some of you this is British Racing Brown. There is a hint of red/maroon apparent is certain light conditions. Once it dries, I'll want to dull the gloss quite a bit.
The paint went on like butter with no runs at all. There are a couple spots where resin from the top installation had run on the primer and I didn't get them completely sanded out, so they show. Also, my hasty, incomplete bodywork is apparent but this is supposed to be an old, shopworn, well used example of a vintage Special, as the Brits might call it.

Well, there it is, for better or for worse, I'm married to this paint job.
 
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That looks pretty sharp Bob. [cl I've got a can of that same Kona brown on the shelf, now I know it looks kool. Obviously you're an awesome painter, last time I tried plastic on the floor, my shoes stuck to it so bad I couldn't walk without tearing it up :( - maybe 'cause I get more paint on the floor than the parts....:rolleyes:
 
Bob....

Don't they call that color Cordovan?? Looks killer though.....a color you don't see often is always good....[cl
 
Wrinkle Paint


I was walking the dogs, obsessing about how bad my bodywork looks under that glossy paint, wondering what to do about it. Met the neighbor (I had installed a Heidts front end in her '40 Coupe) and she said, "Why don't you put flat clear over it?" Well, yes, dummy, that's the answer. I spray canned one door and it greatly improved the appearance. Then I did a front frame cover. Apparently, I put more clear on it faster and it was too wet. As a result, I got wrinkles. It's been cool here and I suspect the Rustoleum color coat still isn't fully dry. Gonna wait a while before clear coating the rest.

Sarge, on the color chart is is Kona. That's all I know.

zzrodder, I was pleasantly surprised how little overspray I got with that gun. I picked it out of the trash when Terry & Lee (tator here on RRR) closed their welding shop. Had only used it for primer til now.
 

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