Rusty_Wolf
Active member
keep up the great work.
1946 ford f100 first build!
- Thread starter ripgut775
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
maverickmk
Rebel Rodder
Nice work. Looks good.
thanks bro!
got the driver side back corner lined up today will finish the other side tomorrow. then finish up my doors. also im going to suicide my doors
Shea Laking
Well-known member
Truck's looking pretty good so far...
I was going to post about doing "relief cuts" to allow the rear corners to spread at the top and shrink at the bottom... But by the time I got to the last pic, you'd already figured it out!!
If you're using your stock chassis to "Z" and suicide spring up front, you may want to dig back through the "Builds" section for hotrodpreacher's '52 Ford F-1 build. He basically did the same thing you're talking about- PLUS, as an added bonus, a little pie-cut on the chassis right at the firewall, just to bring the front end down for a bit more "rake" than just the suicide front end alone. The other benefit is, that little upwards bend on the chassis is a subtle and sexy trick. Doesn't clobber you over the head like a 12" front and 18" rear "Z" does, but looked really cool, IMHO.
Keep taking pics, I'm interested to see how things turn out.[[P
Regards,
Shea
I was going to post about doing "relief cuts" to allow the rear corners to spread at the top and shrink at the bottom... But by the time I got to the last pic, you'd already figured it out!!
If you're using your stock chassis to "Z" and suicide spring up front, you may want to dig back through the "Builds" section for hotrodpreacher's '52 Ford F-1 build. He basically did the same thing you're talking about- PLUS, as an added bonus, a little pie-cut on the chassis right at the firewall, just to bring the front end down for a bit more "rake" than just the suicide front end alone. The other benefit is, that little upwards bend on the chassis is a subtle and sexy trick. Doesn't clobber you over the head like a 12" front and 18" rear "Z" does, but looked really cool, IMHO.
Keep taking pics, I'm interested to see how things turn out.[
[PRegards,
Shea
GJunktionMike
Something's wrong with that boy!
any input and advise will help out hope to start on my frame this weekend
Before hitting that frame are you going to run the floor up in that cab any. I did 10" in my 51 and ended up with 13" between the dash and floor. I wanted to keep the flat floor look But still had to cover 6" of frame and 4" of drop in the frame under the cab.
no i wont be raising the floors up. im going to just z it. my cab already has about 4" over the frame with out doing anything.
Truck's looking pretty good so far...
I was going to post about doing "relief cuts" to allow the rear corners to spread at the top and shrink at the bottom... But by the time I got to the last pic, you'd already figured it out!!
If you're using your stock chassis to "Z" and suicide spring up front, you may want to dig back through the "Builds" section for hotrodpreacher's '52 Ford F-1 build. He basically did the same thing you're talking about- PLUS, as an added bonus, a little pie-cut on the chassis right at the firewall, just to bring the front end down for a bit more "rake" than just the suicide front end alone. The other benefit is, that little upwards bend on the chassis is a subtle and sexy trick. Doesn't clobber you over the head like a 12" front and 18" rear "Z" does, but looked really cool, IMHO.
Keep taking pics, I'm interested to see how things turn out.[
Regards,
Shea
thanks for the tip bro. ill look back in the builds to find hotrodpreacher's '52 Ford F-1 build.
Jimmy Wallbanger
Well-known member
looking nice
first few pics of the roof I thought the straps to spread and hold it in place were pretty clever but the welds didnt look hot enough. a few pics later they looked great so it might have been the angle. I would go all original like you said and z it.
first few pics of the roof I thought the straps to spread and hold it in place were pretty clever but the welds didnt look hot enough. a few pics later they looked great so it might have been the angle. I would go all original like you said and z it.
thanks bro. yea someone else had told be that the welds arnt hot enough. but i never knew how to weld. i just grabed it and went for it
im 22 years old and not really having help on this just the tips and advise you guys give me lol thanks RRR!
a little more work done today
man it took for ever to get my door hinges out i had to drill tmem out[S
will be getting some hinges for my suicide doors
also i think i cut a little to much out the front of the door frame what would be the best way to line and fill it in? thanks in advance
man it took for ever to get my door hinges out i had to drill tmem out[S
will be getting some hinges for my suicide doors
also i think i cut a little to much out the front of the door frame what would be the best way to line and fill it in? thanks in advance
Attachments
good plan..if your building your own frame on one of these fords just z the frame and save the trouble..I did 8" and 18" on mine and I think its plenty low without losing any interior space..
your chop is looking great, I haven't found the cajones to cut mine yet
good plan..if your building your own frame on one of these fords just z the frame and save the trouble..I did 8" and 18" on mine and I think its plenty low without losing any interior space..
your chop is looking great, I haven't found the cajones to cut mine yet
i wish i could build my own frame. but i have no clue on how to do that lol my dad was saying it would be hard to do with out a frame jigg.?? so ill be useing my old frame to z. what would be the better route? and im trying to keep the cost down clost to nothing.
thanks on the chop i just been winging it i never done anythiong like this
it sure is fun and i do learn alot from this site!
Jimmy Wallbanger
Well-known member
Guess im not the only one!
had the same prob with my window frames! I was gonna tell you to cut the top off then split the top and see how much to take out. Idid the same as you probably did by chopping out the same amount as the a and b pillars without checking it first. to fix mine i took the pieces I cut out out the frame and cut thin strips out to weld back and fill in the gap.
had the same prob with my window frames! I was gonna tell you to cut the top off then split the top and see how much to take out. Idid the same as you probably did by chopping out the same amount as the a and b pillars without checking it first. to fix mine i took the pieces I cut out out the frame and cut thin strips out to weld back and fill in the gap.
