1949 Ford bobber build

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Got the cross bracing in tonight. All the cross points are welded as well.
 

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I wondered when we were going to hear from you. Looks like you've got it braced up good.
I am antsy to get back to working on mine. Busy making expensive saw dust(Mahogany) as I thrash to get the boat done. I may have to split my shop time between the two once I get the boat caught up.
Keep going brother!
Torchie.[;)
 
Hi Gold03, I have looked your door work over lately and am impressed. You have the dome in the skin, parallel door gaps and pretty smooth finish on it all. My doors were my first tin bashing too, and there was a lot of learning and some backing up, also. I trick I used sometimes was using a 'big truck tire spoon' to reach down into hard to get at spots when I needed a dolley to pound on. Good work. Keep on tinkering.
 
Yeah, I put in a lot of bracing but its just conduit. [;) I might have overkilled a little, but more is better than to little. I still want to look at building a template fore the roof to preserve the dome. If I do it right it can be used on another cab.

MercuryMac, thanks for the compliment. I also ended up using what I think is a big truck tire spoon. I also modified a dolly and my arm to do hammer work. My arm is healed up.
 
Brain wave?

I have been looking for an easy way to make a template/reinforcement for the roof dome before I do my cross cut. After several different ideas, I settled on trying this. Two 18 gauge one inch strips separated by two inch strips welded at 90* to the first strip. That strip is then fastened to the curved surface to be reinforced. (I plan on using screws or aluminium pop rivets the first time.)The second strip is then laid across the tips of the two inch pieces and mig welded into place. This makes the the structure rigid and retain its curve. If I need to I can weld a strip down one side to add rigidity.
 

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gold03 said:
I have been looking for an easy way to make a template/reinforcement for the roof dome before I do my cross cut. After several different ideas, I settled on trying this. Two 18 gauge one inch strips separated by two inch strips welded at 90* to the first strip. That strip is then fastened to the curved surface to be reinforced. (I plan on using screws or aluminium pop rivets the first time.)The second strip is then laid across the tips of the two inch pieces and mig welded into place. This makes the the structure rigid and retain its curve. If I need to I can weld a strip down one side to add rigidity.
Click to expand...

Not to sound ignorant gold03 but are you going to put one of these on either side of your cut or on just one side? Also is it going to be attached inside the cab to the roof or outside on the roof.

I thought about welding 2 pieces square stock across the width of the cab from door top opening to door top opening leaving about an inch between the two. Then every few inch's I was going to drill holes thru the stock. Then I was going to take some length's of flat steel and cut some slots in them length wise and round off the tops.
I would then run a bolt thru the slots and the square stock. Push the rounded flatstock up aganst the roof. Tighten the bolts and start cutting. Then when the roof was seperated both halves(or what ever) had a brace to keep the roof crown intact as well as keeping the gutter edges from spreading out.
In the end I just said F*** it and started cutting[ddd
How ever you do it will work out. And if not you can always build a RPU.
Get to cutting.....
Torchie.[;)
 
Hey Torchie, I'm putting one on each side of the cut. I am thinking that if installed on the inside they won't be in the way to work the seam. They look like a lot of work, but I have an ancient sheet metal shear. Took about 1/2 hour. Welds are just tacks.

For diagonal stiffness the ends of the top strip will slop down and get welded to the bottom strip. If needed I will weld a strip along the side.
 
gold03 said:
Hey Torchie, I'm putting one on each side of the cut. I am thinking that if installed on the inside they won't be in the way to work the seam. They look like a lot of work, but I have an ancient sheet metal shear. Took about 1/2 hour. Welds are just tacks.

For diagonal stiffness the ends of the top strip will slop down and get welded to the bottom strip. If needed I will weld a strip along the side.
Click to expand...

Cool. Inside will be good as well as being on both sides of the cut.
As stated before. "Let the cutting begin"
Torchie.
 
Dirtyrat said:
I'm confused, what is the point of that? Do you not have indoor plumbing there?
Click to expand...

Don't know about gold03 but in my neck of the woods DR two of the neighboring houses/cabins? don't have indoor plumbing. Some people like outhouse's as kind of an art thing :rolleyes:
There area I live in is still very undeveloped and I for one hope it stays that way.
Let's see what gold03 has to say for himself....
Torchie[;)
 
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