1952 F-6 Build

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Torchie.....
your attitude humbles me.... great job on the build

Thanks. Boredom is a great motivator.:D

This may sound weird but I always wanted to try to design and build an artificial leg...I'm sure there are plenty of engineers who can and will do it better than me but it is a weird recurring thought I have...[;)


Cab looks great. Even the top pro's want the body bolted to the chassis they are using before doing gaps and such because they do move a bit. You may need to straight edge the door and see if it is the jamb or the door causing the tight fit. [P

LOL. I have this discussion with my leg guys all the time. Especialy since I seem to break things in a way that none of them have seen before. My leg is pretty much one step up from a carved tree stump. :D But great strides have been and are continuing to be made everyday. The "New" style of foot that they are going to use on this build was designed by a guy that is an amputee himself. No moving parts so I am interested to see how it is going to hold up.
I would encourage you to try it and see what you come up with. You may come up with the next big break thru....



Absolutely. I aways just get everything thing close and then save the final adjustments for when it is back where it is going to stay.
Just from looking at it I am thinking that most of the issue is on the jamb side. I did some work on the inner brace while the doors were off and it may have moved more than I thought.[S
Plan is to get the hardware back on the door so it latches and then take it from there. Then on to the PS.
Torchie.
 
More of the boring stuff......

Pic 1. Got the hardware on the DS door. Closes and latches nicely.

Pics 2-3. The PS door is another thing altogether. Before pulling the cab off the frame I had the doors fairly well lined up. At this point the PS won't even come close to closing and you can see how far off the belt line is.:eek: :eek: [S

Pic 4. Got out the tape and started to measure things. Using the horizontal firewall lip as my point I measured down to the top of the frame rails. DS was 1/2 inch off from the PS. Did the rear using a fixed point as well. The rear measurement was off by 1/4" side to side as well. More than enough to give everything a twist.

Pics 5-6. This is how we roll as the kids say. In my case today it is literal.[ddd
Loosened all the mounting bolts and removed the PS rear and took out a washer. Jacked up the DS front corner and added a spacer there..
Now the back measures dead on an the front only show a scant 16th of a difference from side to side.[cl

Pics 7-10. Hardware installed and What do you know.. The door closes.:) Still needs adjustment as the belt line still isn't a perfect match but at least I am within striking distance now. Gaps are decent as well.

Going to let everything settle in and then tweak it some more tomorrow.
Thanks for visiting.....
Torchie.
 

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Ain't it funny how much a small thing like a too thick washer can expand into a major misalignment? May be boring to some, but not me. [cl Love seeing how you make stuff work out with a little { or a lot, LOL } of thinking! Keep on my friend, it's getting there!
 
Torchie, that alignment change problem reminded me of my worries when I was bolting my '36 cab down. A lot of the tandem trucks have their cabs bolted down in the front corners like we do in hotrods, but the back of the cab is hooked down just in the middle, so the cab can stay independent of the twisting frame rails. I seriously considered doing mine that way too, but didn't in the end. I got lucky on the cab with the four mounting spots instead of three.
Is there anyone out there who went to the three mounts on a truck cab, that could give us an opinion?
 
It's the little things in life that will get your panties
and your gaps all askew aint it? Lookin good.

How's the leg healing?
Keep on keeping on.
 
Torchie, that alignment change problem reminded me of my worries when I was bolting my '36 cab down. A lot of the tandem trucks have their cabs bolted down in the front corners like we do in hotrods, but the back of the cab is hooked down just in the middle, so the cab can stay independent of the twisting frame rails. I seriously considered doing mine that way too, but didn't in the end. I got lucky on the cab with the four mounting spots instead of three.
Is there anyone out there who went to the three mounts on a truck cab, that could give us an opinion?

It's the little things in life that will get your panties
and your gaps all askew aint it? Lookin good.

How's the leg healing?
Keep on keeping on.

Good to see you're stepping through those little lineup problems! Lookin good...
The F series cab have the 2 solid mounts at the firewall and the rear mounts wrre on moveable arms Mac. I think that allowed for frame twist.
Speaking of twisted panties POPS. I have to keep reminding the young guy that helps me out that we are dealing with stuff that is 60 plus years old . There are bound to be alignment issues
The leg is healing upand i am starting to wear my old but modified leg for an hour or teo at a time . Work continues on the new one.

Doing the best that i can smallfoot. New issue is the fact that my computer crapped out today:eek
Using my nook to try and keep up on the happenings here on RRR.
But postings are going to be sparce for a while.
Torchie.
 
Torchie, that alignment change problem reminded me of my worries when I was bolting my '36 cab down. A lot of the tandem trucks have their cabs bolted down in the front corners like we do in hotrods, but the back of the cab is hooked down just in the middle, so the cab can stay independent of the twisting frame rails. I seriously considered doing mine that way too, but didn't in the end. I got lucky on the cab with the four mounting spots instead of three.
Is there anyone out there who went to the three mounts on a truck cab, that could give us an opinion?

Early chevies had the 3 point mounting and then they evolved to 4 points. ...probably a reason why. Better chance of anchoring seat belts in a crash works for me.
 
Still no computer.....

So i am borrowing my daughters to post this.
Spent yesterday putting brakes on the wife's daily.
Got the call from the shop today saying that they got the kingpins out of the front axle.
You may remember that back about 4 months ago a guy I know was going to do me a favor and press out the seized kingpins.
Well all it did was sit in his shop. :mad: So I took it to another shop last Friday and now I have it back.[cl
Took them about an hour an a half.
Going to work on refreshing the rear end and get that back under the frame then start on the front axle.
Hopefully pics to follow.
Thanks for looking in.......
Torchie.
 
Glad you got the pins pulled with out to much trouble. Mine were a real @#$%@#%! They had sat in a hay field for decades and rust really held on.
 
See what happens when I take a short break.
Gettin doors on and all :)

Brake times over OI. Time to get back to that nailhead.[cl


Glad you got the pins pulled with out to much trouble. Mine were a real @#$%@#%! They had sat in a hay field for decades and rust really held on.

Biggest problem was getting them to a shop that would do them gold.
I appreciate when people want to do me a favor but 4 months wait was just too long.
I was at the point where I was starting to look for another front axle instead of messing with this one.
Worked on the banjo rear end today and will post pics when my new hard drive for my computer gets installed next week.
Torchie.
 
Yesterdays and todays progress...

Getting ready to install the wider 47 banjo rear end under the project. This came out of a running/ driving 47 coupe. In very good shape and the price was right so I picked it up last summer.
Guy claimed on the phone that it was complete and that he had pulled it out himself because he does all his own work. Everything was there EXCEPT the drive shaft. When I asked the guy he said "It's that big black tube". [S Oh well. Price was still right but now we have to get the shaft out of the 41 and install it into the 47.
Pics 1-2. The 41 rear end and tube and the speedometer gear housing.

Pics3-5. With the housing removed you can get to the snap ring that holds the gear in place and stops you from sliding off the outer tube.

Pics 6-7. Unbolt the wishbone from the tube as well as the bolts holding the tube flange to the banjo section. Typical Ford safety wires of that era. Slid the tube forward to expose the driveshaft coupler.

Pic 8. The coupler is held on by two pins that have a head on one side and have been peened over on the other. The theory is that you grind off the head on one side and drive the pin thru. Yea right.;) Luckily we only need to remove one pin............

Pic 9-10. 90 minutes and much grinding,drilling and pounding later. :eek: The pin is gone and the shaft is removed and ready to install on the 47 rear end.

That's all for today gang. Thanks for stopping by........
Torchie.
 

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Thanks for the inside view! I've not been in one of those...

They get real interesting when you start to mess with center section and the axles smallfoot.
You need a special style hub puller just to get the drums off. Usually comes off with a bang.
Then when reinstalling the drums the axle nuts have to be torqued to around 200 ft lbs.:eek:
Definitely a bull of a different breed.....
Torchie.
 
Not really build progress but progress none the less as my computer has been repaired thanks to my wife. And I didn't have to sell a kidney to do it.[cl
Dr's appointments for the next couple of days including another sleep over tomorrow night so there won't be any thing new to post for a few days.
You all behave while I'm away.[ddd :D
Torchie
 
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