1952 F-6 Build

[Torchie]

The rest of the pics. 5-6 and 7
Torchie.

 

[gold03]

Torchie, that is pretty d#%n slick! Nice job.[cl

Thanks for taking the time to post all those pictures. Looking forward to getting a start on mine.

 

[jmlcolorado]

The one thing that I always remember to do is to focus on the whole look of the project. It is easy for all of us to get caught up in the trap of obbsessing(sp) over the things that are not perfect but frankly most of the time we are the only ones that see them as we are so envolved with the build.
When it is all said and done it will look cool and the best reward is that we did it ourselves[cl
Torchie

As Promised I got into the garage this evening and finished clamping in the filler pieces for the roof. Looks good and I didn't need to make any relief cuts. I am still not seeing so well I didn't want to start to finish tack welding the filler pices in so with everything securely clamped I moved on to the door tops.

1st pic shows the difference in the door top angle to the cab since I didn't widen the cab roof.
Some people cut thru the entire door then angle the top and weld it back on. But this is the way that I am going to do
Torchie[

For a guy that says that the small details are the details only the owner sees, you sure are putting a lot of sweat into the doors [cl

I will agree that the details are very closely looked at by the owner, and usually are the ones that create the most headache. The overall look of the project is very important, but the way I see it, it's the overall look that pulls people in to look further. Other builders will see the overall look, then move in to see more and then notice all the small details that brings the whole truck together.
Many people will overlook the effort you are putting in the doors, for example, but the guys that have "been there" will see that and really appreciate the project even more.
I've seen tons of rides built with a great overall look, but lack the detail work that makes the project look finished (as finished as a rat can be ) or even safe in some cases.

You are on the right track doing what your doing, and its important to take a step back to make sure everything is working together, but there is nothing wrong with taking more time at the little things here and there to bring the whole project together.

*this post was more in agreement with you, so hopefully you don't take it wrong

 

[jmlcolorado]

The rest of the pics. 5-6 and 7
Torchie.

I sectioned my cab this same way except I pealed back the outer skins, then cut the door frame, then put the skins back on.
I think it's a GREAT way to modify the door while kinda keeping a factoryish look on the exterior.
I never thought of correcting the door frame angle this way though. Nice work!

 

[Torchie]

No offense taken jmlcolorado as I was thinking the same thing myself while posting it.

I guess what I should have said is that too many people get hung up on trying to make something perfect and never seem to get anything finished and are never satified with anything.
I'm not going for perfection. Just want to do the best that I can.

And as we all know for awhile now the term "Rat rod" in some circles has become equated to a poorly built, unsafe piece of crap. To which I say all someone has to do is to look at the builds on this site to see what really quality work is being done.
Torchie[

 

[Old Iron]

I'm in with the look having to be right and when I see a project that the smaller details were not attended to, I really won't look a the rest of the ride.
Not being snobbish, just think I'd rather spend my time lookin at rides like yours.
The door alignment is right on too [P

 

[Dirtyrat]

And as we all know for awhile now the term "Rat rod" in some circles has become equated to a poorly built, unsafe piece of crap. To which I say all someone has to do is to look at the builds on this site to see what really quality work is being done.
Torchie[

We definitely get a bad name, but when people take the time to see what goes into building these the right way, honestly I think its more work than doing a non-rusted car on a normal frame...

 

[gold03]

Torchie, last night I read your whole thread again. [cl real nice job.

Can you shoot a couple of pictures from inside the A pillar and indicate where your pie cuts ran on the inside? That's one area that remains a little foggy for me. [S I would really appreciate any additional information you can give in that area.

The four inch chop side profile looks perfect by the way.

 

[Torchie]

Thanks for all the positive comments.
Dirty Rat, I like to think of these types of builds as a cross between a hot rod and a custom. But not everyone has our sensibilities[S To me it doesn't matter what the thing is (Hot Rod-custom-restoration-ect.) as long as the work is well done. And the fact that the majority of these builds are done by the owners makes it even better.

gold03 I will get you some pics this evening when my vision clears up. Still pretty blurry. You will have to cut thru the header panel on the inside as well to be able to adjust the upper A-pillar.

jlmcolorado and Old Iron. I have been accused of being obbsesive about the things that I work on but over the past 42 years of doing projects I have learned to not be so hard on my self(sort of). But I still do tend to sweat the details. Like door gaps and panel alignments and everything else

Torchie

 

[Torchie]

Here are some pics for you gold03. I think this is what you want to see...

1st. Straight on view. As you can see cuts ended up not exactly the same. Not on purpose but they worked none the less.
2nd. Drivers side.
3rd Passenger side.
4th Drverside inside.
5th Passenger side inside.
I would go with the driverside location on both sides. That cut was also the shorter of the two and opened the least.
Didn't pie cut it. Just a single cut that opened up when lining up the A-pillars.
If you need anything else let me know.
Torchie.

 

[gold03]

Torchie, I really appreciate the effort to get me photographs. It makes my chop so much easier seeing how you did yours. I'm amazed you didn't have to lean the pillars in from the bottom as well. It looks great.

I'm going to do the same 4 inch chop.

Are you still going to run a flathead?

 

[jmlcolorado]

jlmcolorado and Old Iron. I have been accused of being obbsesive about the things that I work on but over the past 42 years of doing projects I have learned to not be so hard on my self(sort of). But I still do tend to sweat the details. Like door gaps and panel alignments and everything else

Torchie

I'm in the same boat as you. I've gotten too wrapped up in certain things now and then, and I'd probably be done with mine by now if I didn't. But on the other hand, it's let me take a bunch of time on so,etching, only to go back and re look something I did earlier and modify it to make it better.
Keep up the good work man!

 

[Torchie]

Torchie, I really appreciate the effort to get me photographs. It makes my chop so much easier seeing how you did yours. I'm amazed you didn't have to lean the pillars in from the bottom as well. It looks great.

I'm going to do the same 4 inch chop.

Are you still going to run a flathead?

Going to go with the flathead gold03. Just wish that I had all the vintage speeds parts that I gave away back in the early 80's.
I also thought about leaning in the bottom as well but once I got to that point I saw that it wasn't necessary which is a good thing. Lots more work cutting the bottom and moving what with the dash and all.
Also when you first line up the pillars after the chop you will notice that the gap on the outside of the pillar is bigger than the inside. looks like a pie cut. I just ground away some of the top of the lower inner pillar being careful not to grind the outer skin and it closed the gap nicely. Hope that makes sense to you.

I'm in the same boat as you. I've gotten too wrapped up in certain things now and then, and I'd probably be done with mine by now if I didn't. But on the other hand, it's let me take a bunch of time on so,etching, only to go back and re look something I did earlier and modify it to make it better.
Keep up the good work man!

When ever I do two of some thing the 2nd one always seems to look better. Probably because it is.
You keep up the good work as well!
Torchie.

 

[Torchie]

Started to work on the gap in the top of the door frame today.
Speaking of gaps there is one or two pics in the process missing. Tripped and tore the crap out of my leg Lucky it's my fake leg so it's off to the leg store tomorrow I had intended to use the piece from the narrow part of the window frame chop to fill in the top gap but upon inspection it didn't even come close to matching the profile at the gap. So I used the piece from the wide part of the frame.

1st pic. Shows the difference in the profile of the two. So beyond the fact that the wide piece is too tall. I also have to deal with the extra stepped part of the inner frame.

2nd pic. After cutting off the desired amount you can see that the match is good but as said too tall. Basiclly I need to section this piece to match the others.

3rd pic.and crude rendering by artist. Cutting thru the front of the frame I removed a piece that has the factory edge as well as cutting from the back to remove the stepped inner piece but i left the ledge on the back of the factory edge. so you end up with a piece with a 90 degree on it.

Crude artist's rendering.Now at this point I took the cut piece with the factory egde and used it too mark the front of the frame that needed to be removed. This is the sectioning part

5th pic show the piece clamped in place. If you look close you can see the tack welds where I sectioned it. It fits fairly well and with some tweaking it should be good to weld up.
Torchie.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Started to work on the gap in the top of the door frame today.
Speaking of gaps there is one or two pics in the process missing. Tripped and tore the crap out of my leg Lucky it's my fake leg so it's off to the leg store tomorrow I had intended to use the piece from the narrow part of the window frame chop to fill in the top gap but upon inspection it didn't even come close to matching the profile at the gap. So I used the piece from the wide part of the frame.

1st pic. Shows the difference in the profile of the two. So beyond the fact that the wide piece is too tall. I also have to deal with the extra stepped part of the inner frame.

2nd pic. After cutting off the desired amount you can see that the match is good but as said too tall. Basiclly I need to section this piece to match the others.

3rd pic.and crude rendering by artist. Cutting thru the front of the frame I removed a piece that has the factory edge as well as cutting from the back to remove the stepped inner piece but i left the ledge on the back of the factory edge. so you end up with a piece with a 90 degree on it.

Crude artist's rendering.Now at this point I took the cut piece with the factory egde and used it too mark the front of the frame that needed to be removed. This is the sectioning part

5th pic show the piece clamped in place. If you look close you can see the tack welds where I sectioned it. It fits fairly well and with some tweaking it should be good to weld up.
Torchie.

So with the detail work your doing, you bring up a question I've had since I did my chop.
How do you plan on grinding the welds down in such a tight place? For example, if your were to....... Dare I say..... Paint the truck down the road?

 

[gold03]

Torchie, you rock. We don't have a hero worship smiley on this site, but you deserve one. You and Gjunction Mike have really pushed the chops on these trucks.

I don't have any performance parts for my flathead, but a guy I know swears he has a dual carb intake some where, and will sell it to me when he finds it. Bit of a hoarder I think.

 

[Torchie]

So with the detail work your doing, you bring up a question I've had since I did my chop.
How do you plan on grinding the welds down in such a tight place? For example, if your were to....... Dare I say..... Paint the truck down the road?

jmlcolorado The plan is to paint the truck that's why I am talking about using lead for the body work. I hope that doesn't ban me from this siteAs far as grinding the welds down I use an air driven angle grinder that takes a 2"disc as well as using various metal burrs to get into the tight spots. Some of the welds on the inner door frame will be hidden by weatherstripping as well.

Torchie, you rock. We don't have a hero worship smiley on this site, but you deserve one. You and Gjunction Mike have really pushed the chops on these trucks.

I don't have any performance parts for my flathead, but a guy I know swears he has a dual carb intake some where, and will sell it to me when he finds it. Bit of a hoarder I think.

I had to do a quick move in 1980 and had no place to stash all my flathead stuff gold03. At that time vintage speed equipment was not the rage that it is today. More of a cult following. Couldn't sell it and wouldn't scrao it so I gave it all to my heighbor who was into faltheads as well. 2 complete running engines (59A and an EAB) as well as a grocery store shopping cart full of aluminum heads, intake, and Stomberg carbs. 2 top loader trans as well as a couple oof Muncie 4 speed trans. Every time I look at the prices of this stuff now I shed a little tear
Torchie.

 

[gold03]

I feel you pain Torchie. I won't give away or sell much right now for the same reason. My wife thinks I'm a hoarder who specializes in tools.

Maybe. It's to hard to win that argument so I just smile

 

[Torchie]

I amde some progress today.
1st pic. Anytime you see apicture with less clamps you know progress was made. Roof filler tacked in. Drivers side came together really good passenger side will need some massaging but will turn out good as well.

2nd pic. The drivers side drum seized from sitting so pulled the front tire to fix it. You can see some of the front suspension here as well. Stock 1941 Ford. Spring in front of the axle with a cross steering set up. Some time during it's life some one added tube shocks to the front and the rear.

3rd pic. The prefered tool for fixing seized up drums. It turns now.

4th pic. 1953 EAB flathead. pulled the heads to do a visual inspection for cracks. None were found so forward we go. Sent in one head to be magnufluxed. Checked out good and had the surface cleaned up as well. Next one will go in to the shop next week.

So tomorrows plan is more welding and possible tacking the door tops together. Don't know what I will get done this weekend as I have a gig on Friday night and if the weather warms up as forcasted I will have to do some outside cleanup as well this weekend.
Torchie[

 

[Dirtyrat]

Looks familiar, roof likes to cave in, in the middle!
Looking great on the chop Torchie!