soltz
The Rat Captain
All that work and no pictures 
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
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earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Thanks for the update Dan.
DJ3100
Well-known member
pics
Here's a rear seat and the frame. Some of the insulation shows. That's a Bazooka sub woofer in the trash bag in the back. Doesn't fit anywhere - yet.
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Post 917 shows the console when I got it. Here's some details.
Rear AC louver in the rear ash tray.
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Window switch plate in the front ash tray.
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Cup holders
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Upside down - AC duct
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Here's a rear seat and the frame. Some of the insulation shows. That's a Bazooka sub woofer in the trash bag in the back. Doesn't fit anywhere - yet.
Post 917 shows the console when I got it. Here's some details.
Rear AC louver in the rear ash tray.
Window switch plate in the front ash tray.
Cup holders
Upside down - AC duct
soltz
The Rat Captain
great work [cl
with all the creature comforts everyone will want a ride with you
with all the creature comforts everyone will want a ride with you
DJ3100
Well-known member
parking brake
Remember the discussion about the x-pipe on the exhaust? 20+ hp for free.
Well, it occupies the space where the original parking brake linkage was. So I moved the pivot lever up 2". I used a solid block with a bronze bushing and changed the pivot shaft from 5/16" to 1/2". Somehow that doesn't show in the pic. Then I had to move the front cable from the center of the frame to above the frame.
I had the whole thing set up and could not pull the handle. 8Literbeater came by with his calculator and we worked out better ratios. Which explains all the unused holes in the lever. The rear cables are Lokar.
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Had to make the bracket for the rear cables and then bent it to get a straighter pull.
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I have crawled under that car at least 100 times, but the parking brakes work with a reasonable amount of force and I think I have enough travel.
Remember the discussion about the x-pipe on the exhaust? 20+ hp for free.
Well, it occupies the space where the original parking brake linkage was. So I moved the pivot lever up 2". I used a solid block with a bronze bushing and changed the pivot shaft from 5/16" to 1/2". Somehow that doesn't show in the pic. Then I had to move the front cable from the center of the frame to above the frame.
I had the whole thing set up and could not pull the handle. 8Literbeater came by with his calculator and we worked out better ratios. Which explains all the unused holes in the lever. The rear cables are Lokar.
Had to make the bracket for the rear cables and then bent it to get a straighter pull.
I have crawled under that car at least 100 times, but the parking brakes work with a reasonable amount of force and I think I have enough travel.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Jess pointed out that the parking brake cables were passing close to the mufflers and might cause the cable liner to melt.
I put some of this stuff on the cables over the mufflers.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14030-I-D-Express-Sleeve/dp/B003HIV3BM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
I put some of this stuff on the cables over the mufflers.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14030-I-D-Express-Sleeve/dp/B003HIV3BM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
Torchie
Well-known member
Like many on here I have been watching this build from the first day and I just have to say how amazing it is turning out. All your hard work and planning is really paying off.[cl [cl
Keep at it. You are closing in......
Torchie
Keep at it. You are closing in......
Torchie
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks, Torchie.
I just went back and looked at some of the first pages of this build. It probably should have been crushed 20 years ago. Feels good to have saved it.
I ordered wheels and tires - they should be here Thursday.
I have decided to extend the console to the plate behind the rear seats. Two 3" radii with a 3 inch flat in between. 26" long. That will be a trick.
I have 5 1/4" speakers going in the kick panels. I'm planning on making them out of fiberglass - unless I get any other brilliant ideas. I also need to mount the 6 x 9 's somewhere - I think in the area between the back of the door and the wheel well.
I still have to install the front springs - not sure what I'm waiting for on those.
At any rate, there it progress, but it's not very exciting.
I just went back and looked at some of the first pages of this build. It probably should have been crushed 20 years ago. Feels good to have saved it.
I ordered wheels and tires - they should be here Thursday.
I have decided to extend the console to the plate behind the rear seats. Two 3" radii with a 3 inch flat in between. 26" long. That will be a trick.
I have 5 1/4" speakers going in the kick panels. I'm planning on making them out of fiberglass - unless I get any other brilliant ideas. I also need to mount the 6 x 9 's somewhere - I think in the area between the back of the door and the wheel well.
I still have to install the front springs - not sure what I'm waiting for on those.
At any rate, there it progress, but it's not very exciting.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Your attention to detail is peerless. I wish I had your patience and skill.
Torchie
Well-known member
You might look at PVC sheets for your kick panels.
many upholstery shops are using it for door panels and such these days. Also marine upholstery shops use it for it's water proof qualities.
Torchie
many upholstery shops are using it for door panels and such these days. Also marine upholstery shops use it for it's water proof qualities.
Torchie
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
8literbeater
Well-known member
I'm glad to hear that the parking/e-brake will work without a whole bunch more work and redesigning.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks Bob, but I feel you have way more of both.
I have thought about the pvc sheet, but without vacuum forming I don't know how to incorporate the speakers. Ideas? I do hate working with fiberglass.
Me too, I feel like the parking brake may be be the first completed project I have had on this for months.
Tuesday evening I had an email that they cancelled my wheel order. I started checking for another source and as far as I could tell the 8" wide for the rear are out of stock. After a lot of frustration I went to Discount and ordered MB Old School. More expensive than the Ridlers, but they are mounting the tires and providing the lug nuts.
The driver's side glass channel is in - sort of. I'm not happy with it and I really needed something to throw - but I didn't want to damage anything and I'm too lazy to chase it very far. Today I'll see if I can make the glass go up and down. My yield on those glass runs is 50% with a barely acceptable result.
Torchie
Well-known member
Depending on the thickness that you use you may be able to heat with a heat gun and press it between a block and a pattern to make the form that you need. Kind of like vacuum forming without the vacuum.
I would give it a try before messing with the fiberglass.
Torchie
DJ3100
Well-known member
I think I have some left from a previous project. I'll give it a try.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Finally, the door glass is in and both windows go up and down.
But the glass run still won't co-operate. I can push the chrome to where it is straight, but it won't stay. The channel is tight to the door, but the edges seem twisted. Ideas?
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But the glass run still won't co-operate. I can push the chrome to where it is straight, but it won't stay. The channel is tight to the door, but the edges seem twisted. Ideas?
DJ3100
Well-known member
Why these take so long
Got my wheels and tires this morning. Decided it was time to install the front springs. This is what I found on the lower ball joint boot.
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So, I went to buy boots for a Mustang II. No one has boots - NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc. It turns out the ball joint is actually for a Chrysler, but the Moog boot that fits the K772 ball joint doesn't fit because the sleeve on the tubular A-arms sticks up too high. Called Energy Suspension and the tech said he knew the problem and they didn't make them. Speedway is the only place I could find them and they are the same ones I have that didn't last 2 years of not being cycled.
The Speedway replacements will be here Friday.
Got my wheels and tires this morning. Decided it was time to install the front springs. This is what I found on the lower ball joint boot.
So, I went to buy boots for a Mustang II. No one has boots - NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc. It turns out the ball joint is actually for a Chrysler, but the Moog boot that fits the K772 ball joint doesn't fit because the sleeve on the tubular A-arms sticks up too high. Called Energy Suspension and the tech said he knew the problem and they didn't make them. Speedway is the only place I could find them and they are the same ones I have that didn't last 2 years of not being cycled.
The Speedway replacements will be here Friday.
DJ3100
Well-known member
More console
With the bucket seats going in the back, the console needs to be lengthened.
Wasn't sure how I was going to form the 3" radius on the corners, but I came out pretty good. Used a piece of rubber inner tube on the English wheel and an appropriately sized radius anvil on the bottom.
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With the bucket seats going in the back, the console needs to be lengthened.
Wasn't sure how I was going to form the 3" radius on the corners, but I came out pretty good. Used a piece of rubber inner tube on the English wheel and an appropriately sized radius anvil on the bottom.
kenny c
Well-known member
I saw the inner tube trick on a video a long time ago. I had forgotten about it. It looks like it worked out real well. Nlce work as usual.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks. It amazes me how well it works as long as you keep it straight. This is the second one, the first one I had a run that went through at an extreme angle. Couldn't get it back.
