omar
Member
check out my new project let me know what you think!
30 model A sedan new project
- Thread starter omar
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
omar
Member
some more pics
omar
Member
even more
this one is upside down
this one is upside down
omar
Member
last ones
any input is appreciated!!! thanks!
omar
any input is appreciated!!! thanks!
omar
donsrods
Well-known member
Well, you asked so you obviously want the good and the bad, so here is what I see in the pictures. Overall, it is very savable. Some of the construction is not so hot, but you can torch that off and fix it.
I'll take it in the sequence of your pictures:
1) The rear end. I can't tell from the pictures if it is an 8 or 9 inch Ford or something altogether different, but the width looks fine. I would sandblast it, reweld the spring perches and radius rod mounts, and move the shocks out to where they will work. Mounted close in like that they are doing no damping whatsoever, they need to be as close to the wheels as possible, and angled slightly less. Also, get rid of the airshocks and put a spring in there that will do the supporting all by itself.
The rear radius rods aren't the prettiest in the world, made out of that square tubing, but they look for the most part ok. BUT, those clevis ends have got to go, they are not made to work up and down and will wear out in the holes. You need spherical rod ends on the part that mounts to the frame tabs.
2) Frame: It actually isn't too bad, already boxed and all. It does need some sort of X member installed to keep the frame from twisting. These things are like a wet noodle without an X member installed, even if boxed. The front frame horn that is broken off is no problem, you can buy reproduction ones to weld back on. I would sandblast the entire frame and reweld EVERY bracket and crossmember, and add the X member instead of the stock Model A crossmember they left in.
3) Front end. The front end has some good stuff and some really bad stuff. The good is the axle looks like an old time piece that is in good shape. The spindles have got to go, especially since the arm on at least one is welded on, and not good welding either. Put '37-48 spindles on it and you will be able to run drums or discs of your choice.
The radius rods on the front are really very bad. They are just so shade tree with that square tubing. Put either some aftermarket tube radius rods on it or a set of split Ford wishbones, again with spherical rod ends. The spring looks savable by sandblasting and putting some of the teflon buttons between the leaves or even some of the plastic spring liner.
4) The engine mounts. They look to be bolted on, and not sure how they did that if the frame is boxed in front. That pinches the walls together and you don't get a good hold. They should be welded on.
Ok, the very very first thing you should do is get the frame completely square. Measure from corner to corner and get it on a completely level platform, then start making it stronger with the X member I mentioned. I am enclosing a picture of my '27 frame to show you how I built my X member. My frame was done 20 years ago and still has no twist or movement in it because of the X member doing it's job.
But overall, you have a good car to start with. Sorry to be as candid as I am, but I want you to have a car that is safe and fun to drive, not one you worry about driving or one that twists like a pretzel going over bumps and RR crossings. If you don't have a very strong frame with a fordor, your doors will be prone to opening all by themselves going down the road when you hit a bump or uneven road surface.
Good luck,
Don
Oh, BTW, your body is a Murray. Some were Briggs, but the rounded upper windows are those of a Murray. Just in case you didn't know.
Also, those rear wheels look like pretty rare American Daisys to me. I think those are pretty sought after, so you might have some goodies there.
I'll take it in the sequence of your pictures:
1) The rear end. I can't tell from the pictures if it is an 8 or 9 inch Ford or something altogether different, but the width looks fine. I would sandblast it, reweld the spring perches and radius rod mounts, and move the shocks out to where they will work. Mounted close in like that they are doing no damping whatsoever, they need to be as close to the wheels as possible, and angled slightly less. Also, get rid of the airshocks and put a spring in there that will do the supporting all by itself.
The rear radius rods aren't the prettiest in the world, made out of that square tubing, but they look for the most part ok. BUT, those clevis ends have got to go, they are not made to work up and down and will wear out in the holes. You need spherical rod ends on the part that mounts to the frame tabs.
2) Frame: It actually isn't too bad, already boxed and all. It does need some sort of X member installed to keep the frame from twisting. These things are like a wet noodle without an X member installed, even if boxed. The front frame horn that is broken off is no problem, you can buy reproduction ones to weld back on. I would sandblast the entire frame and reweld EVERY bracket and crossmember, and add the X member instead of the stock Model A crossmember they left in.
3) Front end. The front end has some good stuff and some really bad stuff. The good is the axle looks like an old time piece that is in good shape. The spindles have got to go, especially since the arm on at least one is welded on, and not good welding either. Put '37-48 spindles on it and you will be able to run drums or discs of your choice.
The radius rods on the front are really very bad. They are just so shade tree with that square tubing. Put either some aftermarket tube radius rods on it or a set of split Ford wishbones, again with spherical rod ends. The spring looks savable by sandblasting and putting some of the teflon buttons between the leaves or even some of the plastic spring liner.
4) The engine mounts. They look to be bolted on, and not sure how they did that if the frame is boxed in front. That pinches the walls together and you don't get a good hold. They should be welded on.
Ok, the very very first thing you should do is get the frame completely square. Measure from corner to corner and get it on a completely level platform, then start making it stronger with the X member I mentioned. I am enclosing a picture of my '27 frame to show you how I built my X member. My frame was done 20 years ago and still has no twist or movement in it because of the X member doing it's job.
But overall, you have a good car to start with. Sorry to be as candid as I am, but I want you to have a car that is safe and fun to drive, not one you worry about driving or one that twists like a pretzel going over bumps and RR crossings. If you don't have a very strong frame with a fordor, your doors will be prone to opening all by themselves going down the road when you hit a bump or uneven road surface.
Good luck,
Don
Oh, BTW, your body is a Murray. Some were Briggs, but the rounded upper windows are those of a Murray. Just in case you didn't know.
Also, those rear wheels look like pretty rare American Daisys to me. I think those are pretty sought after, so you might have some goodies there.
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omar
Member
thank you Don! that's exactly what i was looking for just someone to tell me what i got and the pros and cons! (im new to building a rod, so im gonna need all the help i can get!)
thank you!
omar
thank you!
omar
dmw56
Busted and Rusted on Route 66
Listen to Don he has built some awesome Rods. Don't worry. There are tons of people here to help you out. You've got a great platform to start with and the body looks to be in really good shape too. I also noticed the wheels I'd reuse those wheels they are Daisy wheels and are very sought after now days.
