32 Pierce Arrow Rat

Rat Rods Rule

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I'll have some more updated pics later, changed some...took out the genny and street sign...added a ton more plates in their place. Got a couple gifts for xmas as well!
 
Try this **** again!
 

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how many pubic inches is that straight 8???????????????
That's the funny part....I haven't been able to get much info on the engine. I even sent the casting numbers to the REO Club of America. They have no idea what it is. BUT, the more I dig it seems to be from a 1931 Reo Flying Cloud model 8-21 or 8-25, which I am 95% sure is the case. If I am right, it is 268 cu in. and 125hp.
 
It looks good. Just one question: Did you weld your shock links to the top of the front axle?

Oh, another question: Will the engine run the way it is, or does it need repair?
 
Lol....they are welded just to hold them in place...going to put heim joints on them through the axle. Started tearing into the engine today, making an intake with 3 Weber's...keeping exhaust manifold and coming off the front dump with a lakester megaphone. Having a problem with the starter though, I know I need to change to a 12v solenoid, but there is no solenoid! Eventually I may get the can reground, but for now I just want to get it going.
 
I'm guessing the starter has a Bendix Drive. No solenoid.

I'm just wondering if you're building around an engine that may have spun bearings or a hole in a piston, only to find out about it later, and have to have parts custom made to get it running. You'll probably need to get the water pump rebuilt at least. I had the Flying Dutchman do a water pump for me a while back. http://water-pump-rebuilders.com
 
well, that has been the going joke...that I built the car around the engine and don't know if it runs! lol. Apparently, it ran when it was in it's last car (an American Underslung), BUT, that was probably 30 years ago. If it goes south, I will find a Buick straight 8 or something that will take up just as much space. As for the water pump rebuild...what did the price tag look like for you?
 
I think the water pump was around $70. I don't really remember. You can ask the man directly, and he'll answer your questions. He's a nice guy. He put in a modern seal and a new shaft on my Studebaker pump, and whatever else he does.

I would have the starter rebuilt, or at least take it apart yourself and tune it up, then just run it. Six volt starters run fine on 12 volts, as long as you don't let 'em get hot. As long as you do your part as a mechanic, you won't have to crank long, since they turn about twice as fast on 12 volts. It should start up better than it ever did. My dad had a 56 International truck with a 6 cylinder that he switched to 12 volt. He just put a ballast resistor on the coil, and never even burned out a light bulb. The only problem was that the starter turned the engine at idle speed, so it was hard to tell when it had started running. :D
 
I agree with 8liter, with another vote of confidence on running 12V through a 6V starter. I've been doing it on an 8BA Ford flathead the last few years and I did it in the fifties and sixties a bit too.
The Bendix gear kicks in fairly hard and the starter turns the motor over faster so it starts sooner. Those old low compression motors are so quiet when they're running that you don't know when they actually start.
On a side note; you are not only changing the voltage, you're changing the direction of the current, [positive ground to negative ground], but the starter turns the right way, your heater motor may not.
 

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