F-2 Stang

[truckster]

We used a lot of aluminum on the Porsches. It will always get some scuffing and wear, scratches, etc. just from normal use.

We used a 3M pad and "cleaned" the surface, stroking in straight, linear motion. It's quick, easy, gives it a clean, simple, muted appearance that can easily be touched up when (not if) necessary.

Did I mention it looks good? It's your truck, do what looks good to you.

 

[DJ3100]

Glad you're enjoying this build. I hope next week I'll have some real progress -back on the ground with the engine in.

Fliipper and Truckster, thanks for the input.

I don't think I have the courage to blast it. I don't think I would be able to keep the panels flat. On the other hand I probably can't get a consistant engine turned pattern on all the panels either.

The Scotchbrite probably will look the best and be the most consistant.

Then, I might need to clearcoat it so it doesn't turn me black every time I touch it. It never ends.

I know, Earthman, "some people just can't let them be rats."

 

[DJ3100]

Photo 1. The aluminum panels in place with the holes drilled and tapped. In this view there are 91, 10-32 drilled and tapped holes.

Photo 2. The 1/4" holes in the panels were punched.

Photo 3. I used the only 1/4" drill bushing I had. The bushing projects .06 - the thickness of the panels. That way each pilot hole is exactly in the center of the hole in the panel. The bushing happend to be a number 37 drill. I broke it about 40 holes into the project. A second drilling operation was required to enlarge the pilot hole to the tap drill size.

Photo 4. I welded a 1/4" drive socket to a tap handle and used a ratchet to tap the holes. For a while.

Photo 5. A cordless drill sped up the tapping process. I found I had a supply of #37 aircraft drills. The long shank is flexible so the drill motor can be out of alignment with the hole. The bushing keeps the hole straight. It came in handy when doing the firewall.

I did the firewall last. By that time each drilled and tapped hole took less than 1 minute. I broke a tap on the very first hole (before I made the tap wrench) and did the remaining 300+ holes with one tap.

I still have the bed floor to do.

 

[bob w]

Whew! I got tired just reading about all that work. Man, that is a wonderful project. Thanks for taking the time to show all the details and techniques.

 

[earthman]

See this where i probably would have just drilled a few holes in the sheets all around and laced them to the tubes with baling wire but you know all us pros have different styles.

 

[Flipper_1938]

It looks like this will be one incredibly rigid car. [cl

 

[DJ3100]

See this where i probably would have just drilled a few holes in the sheets all around and laced them to the tubes with baling wire but you know all us pros have different styles.

Earthman, I never thought of baling wire. One of the drawbacks of growing up in a machine shop is that all the options include drills, taps and machines. Next project I'm definitely tapping you for consulting work.

Bob W, I'm about worn out on this 3 month project that just had its one year birthday. Now, it's finally whittled down to a three (more) month project.

Made progress this week. The frame is painted and I'm bolting on stuff for the last time, (I hope). Can't wait to get it back on the ground.

 

[truckster]

Tapped out yet?

 

[Gregster]

That is some serious dedication

 

[DJ3100]

Seriously dedicated - that's me. Or is that, seriously insane?

Any how, here's the latest progress, or lack thereof.

I got the brake lines run. Hours of bending, flaring and making the little clamps to hold 2 lines in just the correct location (photo 1). Of course, more tapped holes - so no, Truckster I'm not tapped out - unless we're talking money -then I am tapped out.

The double flares always give me grief. I hate brake fluid. Bleeding the brakes is usually one of the last things I do and that is when I find all the leaks. This time I decided to do some checking while I can still get to the fittings and joints.

 

[DJ3100]

I posted a question on the suspension and brake QA and noone offered any ideas, so I thought up one of my own.

I bought a couple double flare male plugs, unions, and DF female to 1/8 NPT and a 1/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT. I plugged the left front and put the air chuck on the right front. I clamped the brake pedal down to keep the air from blowing out of the master. Hooked up the air hose and had leaks at most of the fittings.

By loosening and retightening most of the leaks were healed. The right front, however, wouldn't seal. I cut it off and reflared it - bad flare - twice. Now I need to remake the right front line.

Put the air chuck on the rear line and was able to seal all the joints

I am pretty sure that if the joints leak with 100 psi of air they will leak with brake line pressure. However, they may still leak under brake line pressure but not with 100 psi of air. Anyone else buying this logic?

The fourth photo is one that is done leaking
The last photo is a bad flare on the lline that is now too short.

 

[truckster]

Think the logic is good. Don't know if they will hold fluid pressure because I don't know what pressure that runs. Does Ron know? I will see if I can find something.

Really like the frame color/finish.

 

[DJ3100]

I think I remember that brake line pressure can be as high as 1500 psi. That's why I'm not sure the 100 psi of air is an absolutly reliable test.

Oh yeah, I got the frame painted - finally. A friend gave me a couple 8' flourescent lights that I put over the area where I am working on the frame. It's way easier to paint black when you can actually see the paint go on.

As anyone who has done any painting would guess, the final result was OVERSPRAY. I used white (fine) Scotchbrite pads and lightly sanded everything until it felt smooth. That gave it an almost graphite color. It will look good (or at least, OK) when all the other parts go on.

Did I mention, I hate plumbing!

 

[wendle]

The double flares always give me grief.

I always had trouble double flaring lines.
I started running a countersink bit slightly into the end of the line to remove the burr and give the flaring die a nice 'seat' to center itself into. 100% success rate now

 

[truckster]

Only references I was able to find, in short search, show maximum working pressure for steel brake lines at 3,770 psi. Figurig 1.5 to 2 safety factor, that puts working pressures in the 1,900 to 2,500 psi range.

wendle; -- I always had trouble double flaring lines.
I started running a countersink bit slightly into the end of the line to remove the burr and give the flaring die a nice 'seat' to center itself into. 100% success rate now

like this suggestion, going to try it.

 

[Smokey]

Like the build man [P

 

[CR55]

100 lbs of air is nothing compared to the amount of psi that a brake system needs!!! please do yourself and the other drivers a favor and re-do those brake lines!....CR

 

[DJ3100]

I do chamfer the ID and carefully file the OD. I get about 50% yeild with the NAPA tool, better results with the one I have had for about 30 years. The NAPA one tends to get off center and push the die at an angle. I saw a couple tools online that are completely different technology, but they cost $200 - $400. I think I my build my own before the next project.

I have redone one complete line and a couple ends. One probelm is that you can over tighten the fittings and distort the fitting causing a leak. So I tend not to tighten enough. I think the air pressure is telling me to tighten them more?

This week I'll be putting it on its feet and will bleed the brakes before the anything else goes on.

 

[62ChevyII]

I have a brake pressure gauge in my race car so that I can set the line lock at the exact same pressure everytime while staging (stick shift car). Anyway, max pressure I think I've seen standing on the pedal hard was around 1100-1200psi. Just a little trivia that may or may not be helpful.

I remember struggling through all those double flares... I had to make and remake several lines until I got them all right... not much fun.

 

[CR55]

Wow! that's helpful!??

Better to remain silent and thought to be dumb, than to speak and prove it!

Didn't mean to sound condecending to your post, as told to me by someone, just thought that if you put 100lbs of air pressure as you said earlier, it might not be enough to insure that your brake system is adequate. I didn't want to see you end up in an accident or anything of that nature. I'm not the most car savvy guy in the world, I'm just trying to help someone out if I can!..[S.Sorry if I offended you!...CR