F-2 Stang

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Didn't mean to sound condecending to your post, as told to me by someone, just thought that if you put 100lbs of air pressure as you said earlier, it might not be enough to insure that your brake system is adequate. I didn't want to see you end up in an accident or anything of that nature. I'm not the most car savvy guy in the world, I'm just trying to help someone out if I can!..[S.Sorry if I offended you!...CR

No problem, I wasn't offended and I appreciate your concern. The only real way I know to check the joints is to add fluid, bleed the system and see where it leaks - it's a mess (and kind of sad to be wiping off your new paint job along with the brake fluid). The air pressure was just to give me a chance to fix some problems without being drenched in brake fluid. In the past the brake bleeding (and fixing leaks) has been the last thing I did, this time I'm doing it as soon as I get the brakes on; before the engine goes in- maybe tomorrow.
 
On its feet

I got the frame off the rotisserie and on the coil overs. I had pretty much forgotten what it looked like sitting on the ground. Mentally, it was a huge step forward.

First order of business is to bleed the brakes. I installed the front calipers and all the brake hoses.
 

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progress?

I used damp paper towels to protect the paint if there were leaks. Luckily, none of these joints leaked - the air pressure test showed me where the problems were.

This is my brake bleeding set-up. I have one leaker - actually both ends of the left front line (this is the one I replaced earlier.). I removed it and plugged the T fitting so the fluid wouldn't leak out of the master. I'll try to get a line that is the correct length, and use both factory flares.

While I have some time, I decided to sort out the steering column wiring. The printing in the wiring diagram is microscopic. And some of the plates are missing. I can't identify all the wires, but I found the ones I need.

Now I'm looking for terminals for the connectors so I can run wires without splices. I found that the ternimals are called Ford standard block.187 series. Anyone know a source?
 

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BIG step! Congratulations, looks very, very, very good, I think you could hang any body on that you want. It looks more like a birdcage Lambo than a Rusty Rat Rod.
 
Thanks, guys.

I got the new brake line in, the brakes bled with no leaks and the engine/tranny in.

I'll have some more photos in a couple days.
 
I'm planning on driving it - at least around the block - without the cab. That should be exciting.

While I'm happy about the brakes being all sealed up, I still have the hydraulic clutch - they can be a bear to bleed.
 
It would be nice to take it to a road course and run it hard. I'll bet it would run decent lap times.
 
While I'm happy about the brakes being all sealed up, I still have the hydraulic clutch - they can be a bear to bleed.

Changed a slave on a 90 chevy truck one time had to park it on a incline and tap on it between pumps to every get all the air out of it.

Your trucks looking good!!
 
Seems like a month since you updated, but I guess it has only been 3 or 4 days.

Need you to keep me motivated until I can focus on mine again.
 
I've been doing electrical for the last 2 -3 weeks. Been getting up at 3:00 - 4:00 am and heading out to the shop and quitting about 5:00 pm. Not too much energy left to post anything. Kind of hard to show photos of running wires, anyhow. I'll show the completed job in a few days.

The good news is that I tested the brakes/turn signals, starter, horn, headlights and a few other circuits today and they worked - no smoke, no fire. There are probably a few mistakes hidden somewhere, I'm going to look for them tomorrow.

My neighbor, who just got his '40 Ford on the road, had less than 20 minutes on the fuel pump relay. He bought the cheapest ones he could find - just like I did. Now, I'm betting those Chinese relays will cause me grief. Should'a bought Bosch.
 
Wiring pics

Here's some pics of the wiring.
Photo 1 The view from the passenger seat. The lower, smaller bar is just under the dash. Photo 2 shows the relay panel down for access and the back of the switch panel.

Photo 3 the switch box. 4 Is the box under construction

A big part of wiring is trying to decide where to put all the necessary components. Photo 5 shows the Duraspark ignition module location.
 

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The front junction box contains the wiring for the fan, horn, hi and lo beams, left and right turn signals, and parking lights. Finding a way to run all those wires without the being real obvious was a challenge.
Photo 1 The wires are pretty well hidden?
Photo 2 With the cover off.

Photo 3 The column is wired and tied.

Since I made my own harness I needted to label both ends of all the wires. I used a label maker and clear shrink tube.

Each end was crimped, soldered and protected with shrink sleeve.
 

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You can tell a lot 'bout a Man by his wire work.. You are as meticulous and organized as anyone I've seen.. Beautiful work..

I go crazy wireing--pretty bad, but at least I'm not alone. The oldest boy is a Mec. engineer --clear direct thinker type. He helped me out once on an RPU that had a ratsnest wire job of mine.. He worked all day and when the smoke cleared--It didn't look any different!! :)

Good job man--thanks for showing us what doing it right looks like..

PA41
 
Thanks for the complements guys.

I enjoy wiring - as opposed to plumbing which I hate -I didn't have one electric leak. However, I'll never wire anything without getting a harness again - it just takes too long. Using relays adds a lot of wires and takes a lot of time, also. Hope they're worth it.
 

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