Fluid clutches

[redrider]

Hello everyone,
This is my first time logging on. I have started a rat and would like a little advice. I have a chevy manual three speed and I would like to use a hydraulic clutch. My question is can I use a fluid thowout bearing or do they make one for my application?

Any info would be nice.

Thank you

 

[35Mastr]

Why not just use a Hydralic slave on the fork.

 

[Gearhead10]

A hydraulic throw out bearing can be tricky.Aftermarket ones require shims to make everything engage right.When I was racin hobbystocks we ran a pull type slave cylinder w/stock clutch fork.You gotta drill or torch a 3/8 hole in the fork out on the end so the threaded end of the slave can go through.Put a rocker arm ball and nut on that end.The other end is threaded too and you can attach that to a homeade bracket and attach the bracket to trans mount.A push type you can just make a bracket on the side of engine block and mount slave to that.I've ran both types and had luck w/both. It seems like alot of messin around but the end result is great and easy to adjust later.Make sure that bleeder screw is up too.Speedway sells the slave 34.95 for a pull type and 49.95 for a push type. Hope this helps ya out.

 

[redrider]

Thanks for the advice guys, I had never seen or worked on a hydrualic throwout. Sounds like the slave is the easy way to go. Is there any reason that a toyota master and slave wouldn't work?

 

[Gearhead10]

I would think it should work, you would just have to fabricate brackets to mount it.On my 29 sedan we used the slave & master off a 62 IH pickup. Fabbed a bracket and made it work.Ya just need to remember to have bleeder screw up for bleedin air out,or bench bleed before you install.

 

[redrider]

Thanks again Gearhead, I will keep you guys posted on how it works or if I come up with something that works better. I will also try to put some pics on when I get started.

 

[redrider]

Thanks again Gearhead, I will keep you guys posted on how it works or if I come up with something that works better. I will also try to put some pics on when I get started. The reason I am trying to use toyota parts is I have access to a lot of toyota parts because I use to rebuild wrecked toyota 4x4s.
I can get the master and slave cylinder for about 40 bucks.

 

[35Mastr]

Thanks again Gearhead, I will keep you guys posted on how it works or if I come up with something that works better. I will also try to put some pics on when I get started. The reason I am trying to use toyota parts is I have access to a lot of toyota parts because I use to rebuild wrecked toyota 4x4s.
I can get the master and slave cylinder for about 40 bucks.

If you have the access.Then use the Toyota stuff.Nice and small.Parts avalibilty is everwhere across the US.

 

[Hombre]

There's a Hot Rod guy who is making almost everything you would need for this set-up. I am in the process of changing out the Turbo 350 tranny in my 1946 Ford Tudor to a Borg Warner 4 Speed. The biggest problem I faced was that linkage thing. I started looking into a slave cylinder set-up and found this guy. His name is Mike Forte and he has a web-site with a lot of cool stuff, Mike himself is a wealth of information and willing to talk and help in any way he can. You might take a look, it solved all of my problems and is making this a straight across bolt in swap.

http://www.fortesparts.com/index.cfm

Heres a picture of his converted bell housing with the slave cylinder and custom made clutch fork installed.

Roland

 

[Gearhead10]

Hey, I like that, nice and compact and bolted right to the bell housing. Nice work.

 

[LordMaximo]

Back in the mid 70's we ran a similar deal on our chevy truck. it was our hunt truck and was always geting snagged on the under brush. One of my dads friends set up a hydro-clutch and it was the bomb. never had a problem with it ever since.

Maximo