International L122 B Binder Rat Build

[rat300]

I do like the scoop though, so I guess it's a give and take situation! I hope to get a job at a performance shop where I'm at in Fredericksburg, Va. Great start to bulding an amazing power plant for the rod! I mean, thats the most important part to making it your own custom machine!

No means to jack the thread, woops.
and how much did you say you paid for the motor you bought? only $400.00? Man thats cheap, especialy for a buildt complete 350(thats what it is right?)

 

[jmlcolorado]

I do like the scoop though, so I guess it's a give and take situation! I hope to get a job at a performance shop where I'm at in Fredericksburg, Va. Great start to bulding an amazing power plant for the rod! I mean, thats the most important part to making it your own custom machine!

No means to jack the thread, woops.
and how much did you say you paid for the motor you bought? only $400.00? Man thats cheap, especialy for a buildt complete 350(thats what it is right?)

If your talkin rats, you haven't jacked the thread
I got the engine for 400. I have receipts from from the shop that rebuilt it a few years ago. I lucked out since the guy was tired of moving it all over his garage so in a fit of rage, he told his wife to post it for 400 on Craigslist and the first person who shows up, gets it. That was me [cl
He said he regrets yelling those instructions and tried to pull the listing before anyone called, but I beat him.

 

[sgtpontiac]

What did you decide to do with the window issue???

Just curious......[S

 

[jmlcolorado]

Just curious......[S

Gonna stick with the split. Busy looking for the right glass so it's safe that route at least.

 

[sgtpontiac]

I think the look is great...

I guess you got the fitment issue corrected with the pinch welds and such..cool..Love the aircrafty look of it....

 

[jmlcolorado]

I guess you got the fitment issue corrected with the pinch welds and such..cool..Love the aircrafty look of it....

I haven't yet so it'll stay curved so long as I can track down the right profile. If I can't, I'll switch to flat glass by modifying the pinch welds with your method

 

[sgtpontiac]

10-4!!

Does look good though....JMHO....

 

[jmlcolorado]

So I'm starting to run my brake lines today.
One issue I've run into I'd like some input on.
My master cylinder has a 1/4" out for the rear and a 3/16" out for the front.
My prop valve has a 3/16" for the rear and 3/16" for the front.

Anyone see an issue running just 3/16" from the master to the prop valve, then 1/4" from the prop to the rear s,it where it splits to 3/16" to each wheel?

 

[rsfyj]

Gee wish I was

this far along , brake lines hmm im away some yet. eheheh Im enviuos

 

[jmlcolorado]

this far along , brake lines hmm im away some yet. eheheh Im enviuos

Don't be TOO envious. It's taken me a year and a half to get here

Plus I'm not building mine from SCRATCH!!!

 

[rsfyj]

Darn I dont have a 3/16 drill long enough to make a 7 foot brake line

Im always short on tools of the right dimensions...

 

[teddytedted]

Sweet build man!! [dr I love the spikes on the passenger side by the firewall.. very cool.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Not much done lately. Work has me beat to death by the end of the day most nights.
But tonight on the way home, I was thinking of what next big thing I needed to do to get this thing to fire up.......FUEL TANK!!!!

I was going to use a suburban fuel tank at the rear of the frame, cause it would be easy, but I wanted to make if fun, not just easy. So I decided to build my own.

It's going to be 26 1/2" X 16" X 12"=21.9 gallons. That should do it.

It's made of 18 gauge steel so it should be fairly strong. I added 2 baffles inside to keep fuel slosh to a minimum.

I'll use a bolt in fuel filler neck on the top, a universal sending unit with an adjustable arm to adcomidate the size, and a weld in bung threaded with NPT threads for the pickup. The bung will have a 3/8" tube welded and it'll go straight to the bottom then curl up a bit so that itll be 1/2" off the bottom.

I'm still on the fence about adding a small sump in the center and take the pickup tube there so that I don't have any unused fuel when the tank is "empty"



My plan is to weld it all together without the fittings, except the pickup tube bung, then use that to install a shrader valve so I can pressure test all the edges first. Then I'll drill in the filler neck and sending unit which will both be bolt in.


I have it all tacked together tonight and tomorrow I'll head to my buddy's shop to tig weld the remaining.

 

[jmlcolorado]

I decided i should do a small sump st the bottom to catch whatever fuel remains when the tank is low. I wouldn't call it a reserve, cause its not very big but it will help scavenge the last few ounces before I COMPLETLY run out.

Ill install a 1/4" NPT plug in this too in case I ever need to drain the tank for whatever reason.

This is the start of the fuel pickup tube. I couldn't find a weld in bung at the last minute so I went to the local plumbing supply to get a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter. I'll mill the 1/2" threads off to clean metal to weld in.
The tube is 1/2" and will be sufficient for ANY engine I want to use it for.

I have a shrader valve setup so I can pressure test the tank from this port.

I will run 3/8" fuel line so here's the fitting for that.

The pickup tube will curve around the inside and end at the bottom of the sump. I'll leave it 1/2" above the complete bottom so contaminants will settle there and not get sucked in.

 

[ratrodney]

[I'll leave it 1/2" above the complete bottom so contaminants will settle there and not get sucked in.[/QUOTE]

Youll drive so much when yer done that nothing will have time to settle in the bottom. LOL

Looking great Jim! Always impressed with yer work. RR[dr

 

[jmlcolorado]

[I'll leave it 1/2" above the complete bottom so contaminants will settle there and not get sucked in.

Youll drive so much when yer done that nothing will have time to settle in the bottom. LOL

Looking great Jim! Always impressed with yer work. RR[dr[/QUOTE]

Thanks!
Yeah, now that the weather is nice, every time in in the DD, I dream about driving the rat except when I'm working. Don't think work would allow that for my transportation


I'm glad you like my work. I'm doing a pretty good job faking like I know what I'm doing . Pretty much everything I've done is my first to e doing it so it'll be interesting to soo how it turns out. At least the main components (drivetrain and brakes) are factory so safety should be on par.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Well, as I stated in my post above, almost everything I've don't on this truck is a first for me.
Welding this tank together was yet another!
I was EXPECTING my buddy to AID me (do most of it) with tig welding the thing together, but instead, he had me watch the first 2 inches, then handed me the torch and told me to have fun [S[

The last time (the REAL first time, but I don't count it) I welded anything with tig lasted about 5 minutes before I got frustrated and went back to mig. But failure wasn't an option this round.
So now, after about 20 feet of welding, the tank sits. I ran him outta gas so I'll pick some up this week and wrap it up next weekend.
But I DO really have a feeling of accomplishment for tackling this with tig. We shal see what the pressure test brings us

 

[jmlcolorado]

Well my ADHD kicked in again this weekend and since I can't finish the tank yet, I jumped into something else that needs done. The shifter.

So I could go to the scrap yard and but any floor mount shifter, but that's too easy. I like the Lokar shifters but I'm not made of money, so I'll build my own.
First step is a bracket. Took the tail shaft housing off and traced it to get the general shape.
Looks something like this.

Drilled some holes and cut some cuts and ended up with this.

Then I added the top plate which will be the base of however I set up the shifter.
Then some side plates for support. All said and done, I have a good foundation.

Looks pretty solid. I probably should have used a tape measure on this thing, but I'm too lazy to find it. But I think it looks pretty uniform.

The plan is to mount a threaded.......something, on a pivot with a couple bearings. Then the rod will be on some sort of hinge for side to side. The rod will have a spring on it keeping it pulled to the passangers side. Then Ill add a plate with notches cut in it that the shifter rod will catch in. You'll have to pull towards you to shift. That way it's all safe

 

[rsfyj]

Nice job on the tank

you can always slosh the tank to make sure it doest leak down the road

 

[CORPO]

its always cool to see how different people tackle similar parts.. curious to see how your shifter linkage comes out

you going to have positive locks for the gears?