International L122 B Binder Rat Build

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The Rotozip

Would be the answer. I have never done any of this, but I would be inclined to practice too.

Good luck with this. Great build so far.
 
I have wanted to know how that ring saw works for cutting windshields. Seems pricey, but if you do this a couple times it would pay off. Or if you have to pay to have it done, it would pay quick.
 
jmlcolorado said:
Woah that was nice. I didn't even have to type anything in.
Now.....I'm a visual learner. So can you linky linky me a link to a video of said ring saw?
Also, can you start a thread on another board asking how hard it would be to cut a full windshield with this saw? :D
Click to expand...


Sam, I hope you know I was just giving you a hard time. Sarcasm is tough to project through the web.


Anyways, I have not made any progress on the truck lately. The kid has been occupying my time, and the garage seems to be collecting crap each day, making it not-so-motivating to work in. That on top of my endless side jobs for everyone else.

Today I decided to take a break from side work and focus on cleaning the garage out. Spent the whole day doing that so now I can walk around in it, and I'm not as embarrassed to have the door open.

Once everything was clean, it just didn't feel right, and motivation was there, so I HAD to dirty it up a bit and find something productive to do.
I have many many projects laying around, but since the rat has been neglected, I opted to do something with it.

On another thread (can't remember exactly which one now) we were talking about vintage heaters, and someone posted a link to an article restoring an old heater, and it really got the juices flowing!

I wasn't really planning on using mine, and in that thought process, I filled those holes on the firewall. But now that it's winter........again, I feel the cold, and decided to bring the original heater back to life for the truck.

I want the interior of the truck to be nice and maybe shiny, so the heater needs to fit the bill.

The heater has a 6 volt motor who's wires were completely gone and the motor didn't work very well. So I had disassembled the heater some time back to look I to it. For fear that a replacement motor would be very tough to come by, I tossed the thing asside to collect dust......until today.

Pulled it out and looked at the motor again. Took some measurements and searched the web for a suitable replacement. That process took a whole 3 minutes, so now an exact fit, 2 speed, 12 volt motor is on its way.
Since the credit card was out, I figured I better pice a powder coat color for the heater, so off to Eastwood I went.

Now that a motor and powder is ordered, I wanted to get ready to get it all back together.

Broke out the stripper (yes, I keep strippers on hand in the garage, just in case) and dumped all the parts in it to soak.

Began pulling each one out, flushing, then wire wheeling to get the remainder of the paint/rust off to clean metal.
I was quite surprised, and frankly, dissappointed at how much rust (including pitting) was found under the paint. Figured that with the heater being inside the cab all these years, there wouldn't be any. Guess I was wrong.

With that said, all the parts are set asside all cleaned ready for powdercoating.

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image-1.jpg


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image-3.jpg


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image-5.jpg


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image-7.jpg


image-8.jpg



I've never attempted a 'restore' on anything, with the idea in mind that it will look nice, so this is kinda exciting to me. I'm looking forward to getting it all back together all pollished up.
Hopefully it'll provide good heat in this little cab.
 
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18 degrees outside today...

I think I will rebuild my heater also after setting foot in the garage this morning.
It is damn cold after removing the side windows and wing windows for good, and cutting the doors down 7 inches.
I will not reuse the side windows so a heater will be appreciated.

please send the motor info for us. ( and any other 12 volt conversion info you may have.)
 
I imagine the rust may be from a leaky heater core at some point?
Anyhow, looks like you are well on your way to having a nicely restored heater box assembly!
 
Neverdone said:
That's going to look really nice. What color you going with??
Click to expand...
Color will be Silver Vein.
photo-9.jpg


photo-17.jpg


54IrrationalHarvester said:
I think I will rebuild my heater also after setting foot in the garage this morning.
It is damn cold after removing the side windows and wing windows for good, and cutting the doors down 7 inches.
I will not reuse the side windows so a heater will be appreciated.

please send the motor info for us. ( and any other 12 volt conversion info you may have.)
Click to expand...

I didn't find much info on conversions. Lots of guys say use a computer tower box fan, but that just doesn't seem like it'll cut it.
The motor I ordered is this one:
http://www.partdeal.com/red-dot-blower-motor-12v-2-speed-1-4-shaft-73r0032.html

The shaft appears to be too long, but I think I'll be able to cut that down without an issue.
Don't order one yet, let me see if this will fit ours.




Dirtyrat said:
I imagine the rust may be from a leaky heater core at some point?
Anyhow, looks like you are well on your way to having a nicely restored heater box assembly!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I think it's going to look pretty sweet once it's all done.
I didn't even think of of a leaky core. Guess I should figure out how to test this core.
 
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Well crap!
I ordered my powder from Eastwood, cause that's where I first bought my powder, and I had a swatch poster on the wall already. $20 for 8oz including shipping.
Just caught wind of PrismaticPowders.com who has a MUCH bigger variety of colors (metallics, textures, candys, ect) and their prices are better. Could have gotten a pound of the stuff for $10 more :confused:
Lesson learned. Anyone doing any coating, look into these folks. Hearing great things about them too.
 
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So at disassembly last night, I realized there is a door missing. This thing must have been pulled apart once before cause the tabs for this door were folded over the mesh. I assume the door was lost last time it was removed so they just left it open.
I'm not sure what this door does, but it appears to let heat out. But it's pointed right at the passengers door, which seems to be a waste to me.
I thought about welding a filler to close it off, but until I get the motor, and see how much air flow comes out of each location, I don't want to permanently close it off.
So I figured I'd try my hand at making a door.
Now be easy fellas. I've never ever attempted to fabricate anything like this. Usually it's cut and weld up a billion templates to make complicated shapes (to me, this is a complicated shape).

So I grabbed the first piece of scrap I had laying around, turned out to be 16 gauge.

All I have is a hand grinder, a hammer and an oxy torch with cutting tips, so I did my best.

P.s. I'm really getting tired of cutting metal with a grinder :( it's messy, loud and fiery.

Factory door in place on one side:
photo-10.jpg


Missing door hole that needs filled:
photo-11.jpg


Scrap for the new door:
photo-16.jpg


Here's the attempt at the door:
photo-12.jpg


photo-13.jpg


photo-14.jpg



And how it fits:
photo-15.jpg



Certainly not a fancy stamped factory piece, but I think it'll do for now.
 
Go the motor. The mail today [cl
I was REALLY hoping I ordered the powder coat early enough that I could get it this weekend so I could finish the thing up before next week. Eastwood has taken 5 days just to process the order, so it won't be here.
Oh well.

So with the motor in hand, I went to mounting it.
First problem, the mounting studs are on the shaft side and I needed them on the back side.
No big deal. Disassembled the motor and tried to turn them around. It seems these studs also gold the thing together from the inside. Also, I pulled the shaft out which pulled if from the brushes on the back of the case :eek: with ok was to access them from the outside to reset it.
After a bit of finagling, I figured out how they did it. Got everything all bolted back up but after tightening the factory studs down, I found it pulled the internals into the front case too much and made everything bind. [S

So off the the good hardware store to get some 5mm threaded rod.
Back in business. Got everything bolted back up with long studs on the back where I need them [cl

Got it mounted to the frame, hooked up the blades (this has 2 blade sets on it. A regular fan that pulls heat in, and a squirrel cage fan for the defrost)

Once I fired it up, It looked like the fan spun the wrong way!! BOOOO,!!

So after some frustration, I bent the fan blades to grab air from the other direction. Once bent the other way, I looked at the squirrel cage and noticed they were the right direction already [S

Seems someone got in there and moved things around for some reason.

Never the less, put the whole thing back together and tested it out..... And this thing CRANKS the air! Doesn't really do crap for defrost, but it moves a little.

I decided to take the squirrel cage shroud out and see what happened. MORE AIR!
So that thing is going to be left out.

That's all I got done for now. I'll post pictures later once I make more progress worth photographing.
 
jmlcolorado said:
I was REALLY hoping I ordered the powder coat early enough ....
taken 5 days just to process the order, so it won't be here....

First problem, the mounting studs are on the shaft side and I needed them on the back side.
No big deal. Disassembled the motor ...
I pulled the shaft out which pulled if from the brushes on the back of the case :eek: ...
After a bit of finagling, I figured out how ...
I found it pulled the internals into the front case too much and made everything bind.... [S

get some 5mm threaded rod....
Back in business...
Got everything bolted back up ... [cl

Got it mounted ...
fan spun the wrong way!! BOOOO,!!
some frustration...
I bent the fan blades ..
noticed they were the right direction already [S

this thing CRANKS the air!
I decided to take the squirrel cage shroud out and see what happened. MORE AIR!
That's all I got done for now..
Click to expand...

LOL! That is hot rodding at it's roots! Good job sticking with it and not bashing it all with a hammer. Looks good too! [P
 
jmlcolorado said:
Sam, I hope you know I was just giving you a hard time. Sarcasm is tough to project through the web.
Click to expand...

Ha! Me and sarcasm are best friends. I just hadn't check your build for a few days.

I used a Ringsaw II to cut some of my glass. The II is a stationary only unit, but basically the same saw. Took about 10-15 minutes to do a windshield section. But it is all flat glass. I'm thinking the III, since it can be used as a handheld, would be great for curved glass. A heck of a lot better than sandblasting at least. The blades do cost about $40 and I used one up (it's my wifes stained glass saw.) The Roto-zip looks like it might work just as well - just gotta keep it wet and slow.

I also though making a bed out of expandable foam might help support a curved glass.
 

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