So in theory this should work right?

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mikec4193

mikec4193

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
672
Location
mechanicville ny (upstate ny)
So I am to the point in my cobbing on this ole 1939 Plymouth

IMG-20230516-121833431.jpg


That I am adding fluids to make it stop and move...a nervous nelly for sure...

If I fill the reservoirs and open the bleeder screws on all the wheel cylinders and the clutch cylinder in theory the car should bleed itself, correct?...the wheel cylinders are lower than the reservoirs as is the hydraulic clutch cylinder.

Any insight would be awesome...

Can't wait to hear it run...

MikeC
 
Not necessarily but I've seen some people use that method. Let it rip and see if you have a decent pedal!

Toad
 
Some times it works sometimes it doesn't. Go get a vacuum bleeder from harbor freight. Best way I have found to do it by yourself
 
I got one of the bleeders, which works, but I usually go the way I've always gone. A small piece of tubing to slip on the bleeder, long enough to reach a bottle of fluid on the floor. I like to see the fluid move, the bubbles expelled, and don't quit pumping until the fluid color looks new. Plus I can do it solo. Not that I don't like the vacuum bleeder but for some reason it hides well sometimes.
 
You’re close Mike. Best way to gravity bleed the brakes is to make sure the front is higher than the back, then open the right rear only first. Leave it open a bit, get a cold drink, and wait until you get fluid dripping out. Then close the bleeder, and open the left rear. It shouldn’t take long until it starts. When you get fluid there , close it and let the front down and jack up the back. Then open the right front until it drips, then go to the left. You should have some kind of brakes then, but you still may need to pressure bleed a bit if they feel spongy.

On the clutch cylinder, you can try to gravity bleed it the same way, it may or may not work. I had one that I could get fluid to, but couldn’t get the air out. I had to take a screwdriver and pull the plunger back to force the air to the top.

The Harbor Freight vacuum gun works good, too. You can use it after you gravity bleed to remove any remaining air bubbles. Like was said, keep a watch on the master fluid level! Let it get low and you’ll have to start over!

Good luck!
 
I have tried gravity bleed with not much luck. I also have a harbor freight bleeder and also a Wife who has helped me many times to bleed brakes. Jim
 
smallfoot said:
I got one of the bleeders, which works, but I usually go the way I've always gone. A small piece of tubing to slip on the bleeder, long enough to reach a bottle of fluid on the floor. I like to see the fluid move, the bubbles expelled, and don't quit pumping until the fluid color looks new. Plus I can do it solo. Not that I don't like the vacuum bleeder but for some reason it hides well sometimes.
Click to expand...

I use this method too. Hose and a bottle, works well.
 
I've gravity bleed brakes for years, by myself, without an issue. I do it the way Bamamav does it, one wheel at a time, starting at the farthest from the master. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I always gravity bleed with the tires off the vehicle, so its always on stands. Just be sure the master is higher then the bleeder screws. It helps if the master lid is off, or loose enough air can get to the top of the fluid. Don't run the master dry, or you get to start over.

I go through the system the 1st time, then if the brakes feel spongy, with all the bleeders closed, I will pump the master a few times, then go through the bleed process starting at the farthest from the master. When you open the bleeders on the 2nd round, you can watch the fluid coming out of the bleeder and leave it open until there are no more bubbles. I recheck the master before moving to the next bleeder that is farthest from the master.

Very few times have I ever had to power bleed the brakes after the gravity bleed. Just be sure the master doesn't run dry, and be sure the lid is off the master while gravity bleeding.
 
When alone I use the tube bottle method and sometimes stick to make sure.
I happen to know that the maintenance manual on a Triumph Spitfire suggests this method.
 
Still fighting the brakes...I guess I need to learn how to tighten fittings and also how to do a decent flare fitting...

Spewed a lot of brake fluid out of the right rear...I think I cant make a decent flare I guess

I even bought 2 vacuum brake bleeders and still no luck...Harbor Freight sold me total junk...found another one on Amazon...still no brakes

I really wanna get this ole heap to stop on its own...

Then I figure I can work on getting it to start...If I can get it to move under its own power I will be a happy man...

Then I can sell it...

Wish me luck guys and gals...

MikeC
 
Invest in a good flaring tool. It makes all the difference in the world. You don't have leaky flares you don't have crooked flares. I know they're expensive but if you build any amount of vehicles that require brake line work it will change your life

Also with the vacuum bleeder. You need to wrap Teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder screws or all it will do is suck air around the bleeder screws and not through the line. I have also found that smothering the end of the fitting in Grease works. The Teflon tape does not hold up really well to the brake fluid and the constant opening and closing
 
Well, honestly, I can't make double flairs for brake lines worth a darned. I've even bought a good fairing tool.

At some point we have to admit there are some things was just can't do. Once we understand that, we figure out how to work around it and move on. I buy brake lines with the flairs and the nuts already on them.

The brake stuff companies are producing these days seems to have to be really tight so they don't leak. If you don't have good fitting flair wrenches to tighten this modern stuff up with, you may not get it tight enough.

You could also have a bad flair, a bad flair line retaining nut, or a bad wheel cylinder. If you can't get it to stop leaking, I suggest you buy a pre-flaired line closest to the length you need.
 
I usually use the pre-flared ones. Get something close in size. Even if you need to add a loop or bend. I too struggled with making flares. Jim
 
I’m in the pre made line camp, too. I ordered all my lines from Speedway in a few different lengths. With careful routing you can account for excessive length pretty easily by adding a loop here or there if need be. Loops are a good thing, they actually help with vibrations.

On fitting leaks, I had a few that wanted to seep. I used some 400 grit paper to lightly sand the male end for any burrs. Worked on all but one of them, ended up replacing that section.
 
gene49 said:
Well, honestly, I can't make double flairs for brake lines worth a darned. I've even bought a good fairing tool.

At some point we have to admit there are some things was just can't do. Once we understand that, we figure out how to work around it and move on. I buy brake lines with the flairs and the nuts already on them.

The brake stuff companies are producing these days seems to have to be really tight so they don't leak. If you don't have good fitting flair wrenches to tighten this modern stuff up with, you may not get it tight enough.

You could also have a bad flair, a bad flair line retaining nut, or a bad wheel cylinder. If you can't get it to stop leaking, I suggest you buy a pre-flaired line closest to the length you need.
Click to expand...

Buy an Eastwood flairing tool. I have never had a leaky flair since buying it. A buddy borrowed it a few weeks ago and now he has his own. Well worth the money
 
The point in my life I am at now wouldn't make much sense to invest in a new flaring tool. 10 years ago, probably, but not any more.

I'm at the maintaining point rater then the building point, the building days are over.
The truck has 2 year old lines, the coupe brake lines still look great, and it will probably be going down the road, and I'm not the guy that will be putting new brake lines on my wife's appliance vehicle if it ever needs them.
 

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