Steering, possible suspension swap, which way to go?

[Bamamav]

OK, as a refresher, my 47 Lincoln has a straight front axle much like a early Ford. Cross spring, wishbone rear mount, cross steering with a panhard bar from the factory. Here's the deal--at some time, I want power steering. I can get it two ways, put on a GM steering box, pump, and lines, or swap the whole suspension and steering for a Mustang II style, or a Jag front end, both which will have to be welded in.

OK, now you have what I want. Here's a few facts to consider, I will be using a GM tilt column. My wiring harness is set up to use the GM column connectors and switches, so it is a must to change it in order to have brake lights and turn signals. This is a given, so I will probably just remove the stock steering box and column, and shorten the column enough that I can use a U joint between the factory piece and the GM column. Easy enough, and cheap enough for now. However, I get to thinking, why not just go ahead and put in the GM steering box while I have the old one off? Save the double work? I don't have one yet, but they are easy enough to get at Pull a Part. But then again, I think, why not just go ahead with a Jag front end swap? For probably about the same money, I can get a Jag front end, hub to hub, rack and pinion steering.

See what I mean? Several ways to go to get where I eventually want to be. Dollars are king, so the full swap or even just the power box might be out of the question right now. Oh, decisions, decisions, decisions....

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

How about the Crown Vic? I don't know if that's viable or if it fits dimensionally, just a thought...

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[Undercover Customs]

Yeah, depends on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. Swap this out, then I could just do this and if I do that then.....

The Jag's are nice and work well. Probably a great way to go if you can get a complete setup on the cheap. If you end up doing Mustang II, consider these guy's for the cross member: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/ [

 

[Bamamav]

Dr Crank, that was my first thoughts, Crown Vic, but it's 2" wider than my frame, and 4" too wide overall. Jag is within 1/2" of my frame, and same width overall. Only bad thing is the Jag is Chevy bolt pattern, so I'd either have to use adapters, redrill the hubs to Ford pattern, or get different wheels. So, again, more money to get a better suspension/ steering.

I'm leaning stay stock box for now with a $80 U joint, get the power stuff later on, and stay with the straight axle unless it's a total pos to drive. Then if I don't like the straight axle, go with the Jag.

 

[bob w]

There's electric power steering that fits on the steering column under the dash. It is in some late model cars and is available for hot rods as an after market assembly. Not cheap that way though.
If everything is in excellent shape your front suspension can ride quite well.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

Mine still has the strait axle and linkage is behind ..I think this is a truck box thats on mine ,, I dont know it was like this when I bought it . but there is something out there that will work , I sorry I cant tell you what it came off of ..

 

[Torchie]

Here's my 2 cents Bam.
Check your kingpins and tie rod ends for slop. Check your steering box for play. Grease it all up good. Get a front end alignment if needed and drive it.
You will be suprised at how well and easy to drive these stock Ford setups are.
If you need info on adjusting the box go to Vanpelts web site. A wealth of info on there.
Torchie.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

Here's my 2 cents Bam.
Check your kingpins and tie rod ends for slop. Check your steering box for play. Grease it all up good. Get a front end alignment if needed and drive it.
You will be suprised at how well and easy to drive these stock Ford setups are.
If you need info on adjusting the box go to Vanpelts web site. A wealth of info on there.
Torchie.

Keeping the big steering wheel helps a lot too .If you swap to a smaller wheel it get tuffer to turn .

 

[Bamamav]

That 's one thing going for it, king pins and tie rods are tight, no slack at all, just a little free play in the box. Going from the 18" stock wheel to the 15" chevy wheel will take care of a lot of that. I do want power though, for the wife more than me. Yes, she likes to drive hot rods too!

 

[burner1]

Before modern power steering caster is smaller to reduce turning effort. In some cars I have messed with, 2 to 2.5 degrees is normal. With power steering it is common to go to 5 or more for positive road feel and stability.

If you are not using power steering you can limit the caster. It will help.

Also, ensuring you use the right raq width to eliminate or minimize bump steer can be very important.

 

[RPM]

deleted

 

[440shorty]

power steering

What about the "add on" power steering cylinders like mid 60s Mustangs and Corvettes used? they connected to the center link on those applications, and could be connected to the drag link on your Lincoln. You might be able to use a drag link from a straight axle 4x4 truck that has the provision for a steering stabilizer. The rest of the suspension and steering column would then remain stock.
There should be a lash adjuster on the steering box to compensate for wear and reduce that slop.

440shorty.

 

[30sx]

gm sub frame swap? could be done in a weekend

 

[saleenme1]

If you change to ifs use the mustang ii parts are every where you don't want to be in the middle of no where and need a jag part.E bay has this power box check it out {Chevy Ford Street Hot Rod Vega Power Steering Gear Box 400 Series} My truck has a straight axle and vega cross steering works great on a light front end the 400 series is a direct replacement for the vega box.

 

[Bamamav]

Have you looked at a side pic of my Linc? I just don't think the Vega box would be strong enough. My hood is loooonnngggg. From what I've seen, this car supposedly weighs 4100 lbs, about the same as a full size 60's Caddy.

I've decided to stay with the stock I beam for now. If it drives OK, I'll add power later on. Right now, I just want to get it together and drive it, so I don't really need to tear the front end out just yet....

 

[saleenme1]

Ya i see what you mean.Some guys have been using the early dodge dakota front suspension in heaver cars they have rack and pinion steering and 5x4.5 bolt pattern.

 

[Bamamav]

Yeah, I don't really want to clip it. Although it has a frame, on Lincolns it's welded to the body to make it a sort of unibody, but with a removable front end, fenders and such. The hassel of making mounts for all that sheetmetal would be tough. That's why I was thinking Jag, as it's a complete cross member and suspension system that can be bolted or welded in the original frame. Mustang II is a second choice, but kits run $2500 and up, where the Jag can be had for about $500 or less. Remember, I'm cheap.

440shorty, I could go that route, and have thought about it, but all the cars I've ever driven with the "power assisted" steering had very little road feel- either very light steering or too much assist. I've got two complete Maverick units I might could adapt, but I think the integral power box just feels better.

 

[Old Iron]

Bam, this is an option
Speedway Motors $399.99
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sweet-Mfg-301-30235-Power-Steering-Servo-235-Lite-Medium,1963.html

 

[Bamamav]

Now that is different, never saw one of those.
Kinda out of my price range though, you'd have $800-900 in it time you bought a pump and hoses and a reservoir.

 

[Old Iron]

Any Gm pump works with it
$25 Salvage yard special
$50 in the hoses