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I couldn't make myself pull the trigger on an arm design yesterday. The drastic sweep up to connect to the ball joint (with room for the spindle to rotate) is what bothers me.

I'm thinking that raising the car a couple of inches would greatly simplify what is required from the upper arm. I'm going to put all of the leaves in the spring and see if that raises it up past where it was supposed to sit....if not, that is a whole new problem.

I guess there is a reason most folks play "in the box".
 
I guess it is just the idea that tail lights are "supposed" to have red lenses.

As long as its red when on I don't think it matters what color they are. The aftermarket clear taillight lenses used to be popular, never heard of anyone messing with people over them.
 
Scew it. I'l just use bailing wire!
IMG_4642.jpg


I put the spring pack back to what I thought was stock only to find one more leaf afterwards (the one just above the clamps)
IMG_4643.jpg


It did raise it up.
IMG_4645.jpg


...still not sure what the upper arm is going to look like.
IMG_4646.jpg
 
I like the baling wire idea ;)
I wish I had some words of wisdom for you, but unfortunately I'm at a loss. I follow your builds to learn from you.
If it's any consolation, I like where it's going.
 
Flipper,

Where are you going to place your front shocks? The picture with the wires holding your spindles looks like what you need to build your upper control arms. Small tubes mounted at two points on the frame to one on the spindle. It is for all purposes a IFS. It's beautiful in it's design that you have.

Doug
 
You have to be careful to not out trick yourself. Pick a mounting point(s) that will give you good front end geometry for handling and stopping (anti-dive). Then build an attractive A-arm to fill the gap. It doesn't have to wander all over the place. Your creation has a huge amount of visual appeal already. The upper a-arm merely needs to fit the style, not become the primary focal point.

But then what the heck do I know? I'm just a goofy old man having fun with rusty cars.

Happy New Year!
 
Flipper,

Where are you going to place your front shocks? The picture with the wires holding your spindles looks like what you need to build your upper control arms. Small tubes mounted at two points on the frame to one on the spindle. It is for all purposes a IFS. It's beautiful in it's design that you have.

Doug

It is definetly IFS. My quest is to not make it look like Mustang II.

When the upper arm was going under the frame (over might work to) I was going to have inboard shocks. If the arms are mounted to the outside of the frame...I don't know.

I have a cute little set of Koni shocks for a TR-3 that were bought for this project.
 
Can it be called ifs when they share a leaf spring?

Here's the planar suspension I referred to earlier. Might give you some ideas.

80C8B841-A2BC-4F31-A7BC-09960327DAAA-1679-000004157EA06AD5.jpg


5411EC78-FC7C-47FE-A640-CF76AC8F8F86-1679-000004157989D917.jpg


I do believe this set up uses a torsion shock.
 
Flipper, don't mount the upper a-arms too low on the chassis side or, your car will be really loose on corners because, of the body roll it will create.
You're doing a good job, if I were you I'd invest in a frontend geometry book so you can calculate roll centers before going any farther.
You also have to have your lower a-arms and spindles, positioned at ride height before setting the uppers or it will all be out of whack.
 
If you make the inside (frame) pivot point lower than the outside (spindle) pivot point, when the suspension compresses the camber will go way negative. You have a photo somewhere that shows this effect. I wouldn't do that if it was me. I would try to keep the wheels more straight up and down through the spring compression. Show us the original Jag control arms, some very good engineers were paid a lot of money to design that suspension so that is safe and effective. Maybe by seeing the original you/we can come up with an idea that will also be safe and effective.

Thanks,
Dave.
 

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