Two questions for the gurus...

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Mr.Crown

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
257
Location
Calgary Alberta
Which, in my opinion...you're all gurus.

But I digress.

OK fellas, I have two questions for you ( one I searched here with no answer, and the other is completely random ).

First question:

I've got that old '51 F3 sitting in my garage, with intentions of dropping it this winter. My question is concerning the front axle. Are the F1 axles the same as the 3/4 F3's? I can't really find a definitive answer, but I know a lot of guys here have done F1 builds so I'm hoping someone can "steer" me in the right direction.


OK, question two:

I'm going back to Saskatchewan in a couple weeks to visit my folks. Out in a lot by their place sits three 2 ton flatdeck trucks from the early 40's. On these flatdecks are a bunch of A and T cabs, cab-chassis, bare frames, etc.

The goal is to return home with a cab, a frame and maybe a front axle.

Now, I'm hoping that someone can give me some measurements of the cab, and maybe frame size as well. Ideally, I'd like to be able to fit the cab in the truck bed, but if the numbers don't add up, I'll go back with a trailer next time.

Any advice on either question is always and greatly appreciated.

Thanks gents.
 
sorry can't give you a answer on the first one, but the second one is take a big trailor and bring it all back. a t should fit in the back of a truck, may not set flat, not sure on the a but i believe i would get it home on what i had. as for as the frames go not sure about t truck frames but if they are like the cars then leave them. good luck and post some pics.:)
 
A model T body, an A body, and a 32 body will fit into the bed of most full size pickup trucks. Anything later is going to be wider, I think. With the wheelwells in some pickup beds you have to elevate the body a little bit on something like a pallet or two to get them to clear.

Don
 
Don is right, I had a 28 tudor body in my 94 Ford for weeks till I had room to unload it and had inches to spare.

The 1/2 ton and larger trucks do NOT share the same axle.
 
And this is why you guys are gurus.

Many thanks to you.

So, if I'm stuck with using my original front axle, what is the best/safest solution to dropping the front end down the maximum amount with minimum ill effects?
 
And this is why you guys are gurus.

Many thanks to you.

So, if I'm stuck with using my original front axle, what is the best/safest solution to dropping the front end down the maximum amount with minimum ill effects?
Flip springs under the axle, c notch the frame. Weekend job if you are drinking,,, 1 day if not.
 
And this is why you guys are gurus.

Many thanks to you.

So, if I'm stuck with using my original front axle, what is the best/safest solution to dropping the front end down the maximum amount with minimum ill effects?

How much work do you want to get in to. There is plenty of room under the hood to raise the motor up and z the frame on the front. Other then that you are not going to get very much drop. Or go with a fatman front end or a S-10 frame.
 
How much work do you want to get in to. There is plenty of room under the hood to raise the motor up and z the frame on the front. Other then that you are not going to get very much drop. Or go with a fatman front end or a S-10 frame.

Lot of work to Z the frame uless its already stripped down.

Clip or crossmember is a good alternative. Volarie fronts were a huge thing under those in the 80s.

If you put a S10 under that truck, I will personally drive up to beer and hockey land and beat you with a lead pipe. :cool:
 
Lots of S-10 frames at the junkers...and that is where they shall stay.

Most likely, I'll flip the leaves amd notch the frame.
My biggest issues with S10s are two.

1: if it doesnt have fenders, it shouldn't have an IFS. End of story, they look like ASS. You shouldnt even be allowed to dress yourself.

2: On many full fendered cars and trucks, the front wheel seperation is too narrow, and you either end up running really weird offset rims, or you leave it and it looks like ASS.

Building on the cheap and building fast shouldnt mean you should drive something that looks like you should have flushed it after you wiped. :rolleyes:
 
My biggest issues with S10s are two.

1: if it doesnt have fenders, it shouldn't have an IFS. End of story, they look like ASS. You shouldnt even be allowed to dress yourself.

2: On many full fendered cars and trucks, the front wheel seperation is too narrow, and you either end up running really weird offset rims, or you leave it and it looks like ASS.

Building on the cheap and building fast shouldnt mean you should drive something that looks like you should have flushed it after you wiped. :rolleyes:

I've seen a few guys around here running S-10 or Astro Van frames, and it looks weird...

I'm not planning on do this A) fast or B) cheap only doing it RIGHT and SAFE.
 
You can do it all. That T truck I drive (pretty much every day) was built in 17 days total, including stripping the parts car and building the chassis. Other than the new Cragars and tires, we have just under $1500 into it. Its been a daily driver for 4 years next month and the only time it "broke down" was when I ran out of gas (even with a gas gauge :eek: ).

Just have to get out and DO IT.
 

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