V8 in original 26 T frame???

[oldracer22]

I am going to pick up my new (to me) 1926 T coupe this morning. It is complete less engine, hood , and grille shell. It is in very good shape with only one rust through on the left rear corner. My plan is to install a very mild SBC/700r4. My 27 T roadster is a monster. I don’t need another monster, just something to cruise in with decent MPG’s. I know everybody says that the T frame is not strong enough for a V8. I built the frame for the 27 T roadster, but would like to use the original for this one. My question is…. Can the frame be beefed up to be strong enough? Maybe box the frame with ¼” plate. Reinforce existing cross members. Maybe add cross members or a k member. Of course a newer front axle, newer rear end must be used. What do you think? Anybody done this?

 

[Dirtyrat]

I'm going to say it can be done, but I think for how cheap a frame can be had from EZ Tbucket or speedway, is it really worth it?

 

[Got Rust?]

Agree, it can be done,,,,,, but,,,,,,,
much easier, and safer with a different frame. PS you may not hot rod it, but someone will.

 

[donsrods]

You will put more work and time into making that frame strong enough than if you just built a new out out of 2 x 3 tubing in the first place, and it will be newer steel and much stronger.

On another forum there is a young lady building a model T hot rod using an original frame and people are urging to to keep that frame because it is "traditional". IMO they are leading her down the wrong path, but she seems hellbent on using it. I think she will be sorry in the long run.

Don

 

[Bamamav]

Modern lawnmowers have more HP than a Model T had.

I had a 27 T sedan on the stock frame with the T engine still in it. I could pick up one corner of the rear frame, lift it about two feet, and the front would never move. I don't think it would handle the torque forces too well without a heck of a lot of bracing.....

 

[RPM]

I say don't do it. We call those T frames 20/20 frames. 20 hp for 20 mph is what they were designed for. Buy or build a new frame that will handle the power.

 

[bob w]

I think you can build your coupe using the T frame. Fully boxed with 3/16" plate and with all the riveted corners welded it would be about the equivalent of a 1 1/2" by 3" rectangular tubing frame. If I was doing it, the front crossmember would be replaced with a much heaver piece, a 3" round if using a suicide front or a heavy wall rectangular tube or channel with other styles of front suspensions. A thick wall tube in an upsidedown "U" shape inside the firewall or behind the dash and a full crossmember under the engine at the motor mounts would be utilized.
A beefy trans crossmember with diagonals to the frame, frontward and rearward too if possible would be desirable. Depending on the rear suspension used the rear crossmember needs to be substantially reinforced or replaced with thick wall rectangular tubing.
If it is to be full fendered I'd probably run a tube along and under the frame rails creating a ladder configuration.
I'd use the T frame just for the challenge of making it strong and safe while retaining all the stock mounting points for the body, fenders, running boards, radiator, hood, etc.
But, I'm a bit of a nut.

 

[BigIrish]

Yeah I think it "can" be done. But if you are replacing all the suspension and drivetrain, which means new mounts and cross members for all of that, then what's the benefit? You'll also need a new master cylinder mount and surely you aren't going to use the T steering box, right? New mount for that too.

Body mounts on a T/A are super easy. I'd buy a $700 perimeter frame from any number of sources that will fit that body. You'll end up spending way less time and the frame will be straight.

But if you are just looking for a challenge, then I'm sure it can be done. [

 

[Dirtyrat]

Yeah I think it "can" be done. But if you are replacing all the suspension and drivetrain, which means new mounts and cross members for all of that, then what's the benefit? You'll also need a new master cylinder mount and surely you aren't going to use the T steering box, right? New mount for that too.

Body mounts on a T/A are super easy. I'd buy a $700 perimeter frame from any number of sources that will fit that body. You'll end up spending way less time and the frame will be straight.

But if you are just looking for a challenge, then I'm sure it can be done. [

Bare perimeter frames are much cheaper than $700 as well... more like $400.

 

[oldracer22]

Thanks guys for all the replys. I really like to do all my own fabricating. I am a certified welder. Been welding and fabricating for 45 years. Not really looking for a challenge. I just thought that it might have been easier to start with the original frame to use all the body and fender mounting holes.
It seems maybe that isn't so. Starting with new metal may be easier. I got delayed yesterday because the car was buried in snow. Gonna try to pick it up today. I will study on itmore when I get it home.

 

[BigIrish]

I've been there...staring at an old Model A or T frame, trying to justify being able to use it. After you add up all the modifications needed, the math just doesn't work. Dangit!

Let us know which way it goes...and start a build thread so we can follow it. [P

 

[bob w]

I started with a Model T frame when I built my HAMB dragster. My conclusion was it wasn't worth it because it really doesn't show.

If you want your T to look like it was built in the '30's or '40's for instance then the extra work would be worthwhile. It will be a lot of extra work like Big Irish said. Take lots of pics.

 

[CoronetRTguy]

I have been looking at doing a T bucket. I found the dimensions and plans on Tbucketplans.com to make my own frame.

Save the frame that it comes with and build a newer frame. You can always go back to the old frame later on and see if its worth doing and keeping.

Can't wait to see this project.