endicott_jb
Well-known member
Good point zz. Im not old enough to remember the old service stations. In fact ever since I was younger all I can remember are the self service pumps.
1933 chevy tudor sedan aka Project Copper Tone!
- Thread starter endicott_jb
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Good point zz. Im not old enough to remember the old service stations. In fact ever since I was younger all I can remember are the self service pumps.
Old Iron
Well-known member
jb, remember that the lifters have a specific lifter bore, make sure they go back into the same bore they came out of.
Check the lifters, if they have a concaved bottom, replace them.
You piston cleaning is great [cl
[P[P[P
Check the lifters, if they have a concaved bottom, replace them.
You piston cleaning is great [cl
[P[P[P
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Roger that oi. And thats also why im only doing 2 lifters at a time. One lifter goes in one can of soak and the other goes in the other can. Ive got a small machinists ruler that doubles as a small straight edge to check for flatness.
Bamamav
Well-known member
We used to say when you found an engine that gummed up that they ran Quaker State oil in it If it wasn’t changed regularly it would gum one up fast. Quaker State oil used to be high in paraffin content, don’t know if it still is or not.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Still cleaning lifters. Every single one so far looks as if there is chocolate milk in them once disassembled so Im guessing the engine sucked water a few too many times. Cleaned up they are all looking good and check out. Hopefully finish this up today so I can pull the cam, clean it, and get all the junk out of the lifter valley. Then flip the block over and clean the crank. Right now its coated with white lithium grease to keep it protected. I know I should replace the bearings but the thrust is good at .010” and the rear main doesnt look to be leaking and we all know hoe these fes are with rear mains.
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Looks like I should have pulled the cam before cleaning lifters. Cam is toast. It doesn’t appear to have any flat spots but due to sitting for so long and drinking water, theres a lot of pitting on the lobes. So now I have to decide if I want to go with a factory cam or one with a bit more snort. I’m thinking 1800-5800 rpm range and just a hair more lift and duration. And I guess while I’m at it I’ll pull the crank so I can replace all the bearings. May as well do a full rebuild now that I’ve gone this far.
DozerII
Well-known member
Good to see you back at it JB. opening an old motor is just a big ol can of worms.
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Yeah it is. But she’ll be running before we know it. Still trying to decide on a cam.
zzrodder
It ain't grey hair, it's chrome!
Cam selection is something I've always had a hard time with. Common sense says add lift and not too much duration to make more torque and power over a lower broader range, which is actually where the engine lives in the real world...
However every time I look at specs I'm thinking - that wild and lumpy cam doesn't cost more than a mild one and that glorious lopey, lumpy idle is so tempting, I just can't resist throwing common sense out the window.
I used a Thumper cam in the rat motor in my 36 Packard - loved the sound but of course it was a turd at low rpm with a stock converter and 2.75 gears - but it sounded so Kool
However every time I look at specs I'm thinking - that wild and lumpy cam doesn't cost more than a mild one and that glorious lopey, lumpy idle is so tempting, I just can't resist throwing common sense out the window
.I used a Thumper cam in the rat motor in my 36 Packard - loved the sound but of course it was a turd at low rpm with a stock converter and 2.75 gears - but it sounded so Kool
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Cam selection is something I've always had a hard time with. Common sense says add lift and not too much duration to make more torque and power over a lower broader range, which is actually where the engine lives in the real world...
However every time I look at specs I'm thinking - that wild and lumpy cam doesn't cost more than a mild one and that glorious lopey, lumpy idle is so tempting, I just can't resist throwing common sense out the window
I used a Thumper cam in the rat motor in my 36 Packard - loved the sound but of course it was a turd at low rpm with a stock converter and 2.75 gears - but it sounded so Kool
Glad someone understands. Im leaning towards this cam, and whether I go with almost stock to wild, I have to work the heads so it’s the same price across the board. Im really leaning towards this one as it’ll be in the rpm range that I want. My only concern is the gearing. Since I’m only running 3.08s, they may be a bit too high geared. But aside from that, everything should play well together.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=939&sb=2
Old Iron
Well-known member
What diameter rear tires are you going to run?
3.08 with 26" to 30" tall tires should be about right.
If you run an OD tranny, it'll be too high [P[P[P
3.08 with 26" to 30" tall tires should be about right.
If you run an OD tranny, it'll be too high [P[P[P
endicott_jb
Well-known member
I’m running 8.50-15 firestone cheaters so roughly 31” diameter. Not an od tranny, t-19 with the granny low. Even with the 360, she wanted to lift up the front tires on hot asphault.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Right On [cl
I'm running 29" tall tires with 2.75 gears, Buick 401 Nailhead and a Borg Warner Super T10 four speed in my 33 Pontiac and it does extremely well.
2,300 at 70 mph with a hole shot from hell to boot [ddd
Had to stop and laugh at myself Had a laps of what we were discussing
The cam selection
will be great for your engine
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Got my cam bearings and head tools ordered. Should be going back together with the bottom end minus camshaft in the next few weeks. I’ll order up my cam kit in a few weeks when I’m comfortable spending the cash.
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Got the bottom end back together today. I had forgotten how big a pain in the ass the rear main/cap was to put in. Got the new cam ordered today so tomorrow I’ll take a set of heads apart to machine them for the new springs and valve seals. Figure while Im at it I’ll clean and lap the valves.
Old Iron
Well-known member
[cl[cl[cl
[P[P[P
[P[P[P
endicott_jb
Well-known member
Heads are now ready. It’s funny how some of these old engines are. One side, the head had been rebuilt at one time and has press in guides and seats. The other appears to be stock. If it were going into a daily driver I’d be sending them off to be built but I’m gonna be cheap and just keep em the way they are. Now it’s just the waiting game.
endicott_jb
Well-known member
After really thinking about it and talking with a buddy of mine, I’ve decided that it’d be in my best interest to have the bad head rebuilt. Had him look them over real good and the guides are real sloppy along with starting to suck in. So looks like on monday I’ve got to call around to a few machine shops. I think I’ll take em both heads and get the one fully rebuilt an the other I’ll have them deck. Theyre not warped but I think a little bit more compression will be good on this ol’ girl. Also, turns out these heads are the C8AE-H so 68-69 390-428 heads and the other set I have(with burned valves and broken exhaust bolts) are the DT2A-A heads so they’re 73-76 low compression truck heads and from what it appears have extremely restrictive ports. Only plus they have is the hardened seats but they would also need rebuilt.
Old Iron
Well-known member
"turns out these heads are the C8AE-H so 68-69 390-428 "
[cl Nice
[cl Nice
