1933 shorty dodge pic update

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changed motor plans

it was wet and wild that night. thought we might have to stop working on the
car and start building an ark!

came up with a 400hp 350ftp 383 small block chevy :Dfor the 33 dodge.
had some extra parts the guy needed so we did a swap. that keeps me in my budget and gives me a killer motor.
might take off the tunnel ram and put a holley torker style aluminum intake and a 600 demon. l aready have them left over from another project on it just so l can afford to drive it.

has any one driven this kind of motor with the ram on it. if so, how does it work on the street? the ram has two 660 center squirter holleys.:confused:

also changing the rear gears from 3:90's to either a 3:25 or 3:50 since with this much torque coming out the motor the car should not need steep gears.

700R4 will stay for the tranny.

later
 

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went out and smoothed all the rivits and bolts off the firewall and figured out a set of latches for the sucide doors.



wohooooo ,, l have a duece.

a guy told me mine is either a desoto or a plymouth, 1932 not 1933 as l was told from the guy l got from. oh well, stiil building and plan on having lots fun driving it around no matter what year it is.

later
 
Nice score on the engine. It should move really good! I like your plans for the whole project. Keep up the good work.
 
more progress

cut the body to day, took out only 7'' because the chassis l am using was built for a differant kind of car. to get the body to fit correctly, that was all we could safely take out . will finish welding up the body tomarrow or the next day. soon after the welding on the main body is done, we will fill in where the doors were.

later:D
 

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more pics
 

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Insteresting, do you plan to use the rear doors?
I see your roof opening looks like it lines up with the section removed. I had to pie cut mine to get the lines to meet.
I removed 12 inches, so that is part of it I am sure.

Looks good!
 
You know, typically, you would get your body proportions done first, then adjust the chassis to fit...

and, you are NOT going to like trying to drive that motor on the street with a tunnel ram and two 660 Holley center squirters!...that setup is for a high-rpm range, not everyday, stop-n-go traffic...especially if you're going to a higher rear gear ratio...
 
ok

You know, typically, you would get your body proportions done first, then adjust the chassis to fit...

and, you are NOT going to like trying to drive that motor on the street with a tunnel ram and two 660 Holley center squirters!...that setup is for a high-rpm range, not everyday, stop-n-go traffic...especially if you're going to a higher rear gear ratio...

thank you for the info, then l will change to the torker style intake and a demon 600 l have from a motor l was gonna use on another project.

frame: ya l knew to try to do it so that the body and frame is a compatable unit.

mr.dragfink, l had the 1929 'glass roadster l was going to put together and due to healh reasons l sold the body ithis weekend. since l am not able to use the roadster body because of needing a enclosed cab/seating area, l am using the chassis that was custom made for the 1929 ford body. tried to sell the 29 frame and get a chassis made for the dodge/desoto body and no one is buying higher priced parts right at this financally challanged time we live in.

since l can't sell the 29's chassis, l will make it work on the dodge/desoto body. just have to change the measurements on the 33's body a little and the frame will work.

on the plus side, it gives me a small back seat for the kids and the 140 lb dog l have:D

later
 
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doors

Insteresting, do you plan to use the rear doors?
I see your roof opening looks like it lines up with the section removed. I had to pie cut mine to get the lines to meet.
I removed 12 inches, so that is part of it I am sure.

Looks good!
,,,,thanks:D



![/QUOTE][blazing saddles] rear door's? l DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' REAR DOORS. hahahhahhahaaaaa
/////////////

being silly, anyhow, no, l am still going to weld up the rear doors so it looks like a 2 door of some kind. probally not removing the rear door posts. a friend of mine who has a body shop told me that if l remove the posts it may make the rear quarter panel window to long and weaken them to the point of when the car is at highway speeds it may buckle or blow out. he said because l am using 1/4 plexi-glass and not factory style windows might be a good idea to leave the post for strengh and use shorter windows.

later.
 
Ahhhh, i think you could add internal bracing and keep the cool looks.Really have to question the likleyhood of the side windows being sucked out at 75 mph.Just my two cents. Thanks for sharing this with us :D
 
we got more of the roof welded today. will start on getting the rear doors mocked up next week, hopefully welded in place by next wednesday or thursay.



mocked up the front bucket seats and rear bench seat. also figured out guage placement.

still thinking where l want to place the ingnition,

light and heater switches.



later
 
progress today

started to get the back doors welded in today. the people who are helpling me decided while l was at my friends house to help. got home and they had welded part of the back doors in. that ends the opening part of the rear door idea. [;)
looks really rough right now. as we progress the body will get fixed up . when finished being welded there will some body work to get rid of the weld lines, dents and rust.

later
 

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more pics

more progress of today:)
 

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side view

pics of side.

did not get it as short as l wanted because the chassis was for a 1929 ford and the body got sold. had the 33 dodge car body and the 29 ford chassis so l put them together and this is the results.:D
 

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more side view, start filling in the gap soon.
 

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worked on the guages today. the area above the windsheild has enough room for the guages to fit in and puts them right at eye level.
even have a transmission heat guage made by B&M from 1979 still in the oringal package l bought it in.[ddev

later
 

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