1937 Packard 115 coupe

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
They are the original gauges restored by RS Gaugeworks in Phoenix AZ, pricey but they look great. Internals are Autometer 12V and an electronic clock replaces the old mechanical one. The speedo is driven by a CableX box under the dash that converts the signal from the tranny sender to a short cable hooked to the original speedo, a little motor in the CableX unit drives it. Never used one before, we'll see how it works out....
I've used Classic instruments many times before and never had an issue with their quality.

Yeah, that's the first time I've heard of an issue with their quality.
 
Beautiful!!!
You will get the bugs worked out In no time , ZZ.😎
Torchie

They are the original gauges restored by RS Gaugeworks in Phoenix AZ, pricey but they look great. Internals are Autometer 12V and an electronic clock replaces the old mechanical one. The speedo is driven by a CableX box under the dash that converts the signal from the tranny sender to a short cable hooked to the original speedo, a little motor in the CableX unit drives it. Never used one before, we'll see how it works out....
I've used Classic instruments many times before and never had an issue with their quality.

Thanks ZZ for the update on gauges

An update on the temp gauge that didn't work - after racking my brain testing wires, changing senders and general cursing, even resorting to banging on the dash with my fist, I called the owner of RS Gauge Works for help. He suggested just grounding the sender wire, which should make the gauge pin to the upper reading, 250 F. If it doesn't work, bad gauge, if it does work, bad sender. What did happen though was the needle moved a bit - after turning the key on and off several times, the needle eventually made a full sweep. Connected it back to the sender and bingo, it works, reading properly!! I guess after sitting for 3 years waiting for me to get this far, it was just stuck.:D. Props to RS Gauge Works for helping me solve it.
As for the radiator leak, turns out it was just the drain cock not tight :eek: Some bonehead didn't check everything before putting in the antifreeze :rolleyes: It's tucked away under the fan shroud in a spot that's hard get eyes on so it took me a while to spot it - when it's hot you don't want to stick your fingers in there, and when it was cold, it didn't leak :mad:
 
An update on the temp gauge that didn't work - after racking my brain testing wires, changing senders and general cursing, even resorting to banging on the dash with my fist, I called the owner of RS Gauge Works for help. He suggested just grounding the sender wire, which should make the gauge pin to the upper reading, 250 F. If it doesn't work, bad gauge, if it does work, bad sender. What did happen though was the needle moved a bit - after turning the key on and off several times, the needle eventually made a full sweep. Connected it back to the sender and bingo, it works, reading properly!! I guess after sitting for 3 years waiting for me to get this far, it was just stuck.:D. Props to RS Gauge Works for helping me solve it.
As for the radiator leak, turns out it was just the drain cock not tight :eek: Some bonehead didn't check everything before putting in the antifreeze :rolleyes: It's tucked away under the fan shroud in a spot that's hard get eyes on so it took me a while to spot it - when it's hot you don't want to stick your fingers in there, and when it was cold, it didn't leak :mad:

Frustrating as they may be, easy fixes mean you can move on to the next thing!
 
Got around to solving the defroster vent issue. It came with these crummy flat pieces of metal that screwed to the dash to deflect the defroster air to the window. I've never seen them in any pics of the same year dash, nor have I seen the passenger side one on a car - maybe a dealer install for the Great White North? They were made from brass, nickel plated - ugly anyways. So I made up my own from sheet metal, a little bondo and paint, problem fixed and looking better, held on with 2 screws instead of 3.

attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3030.JPG
    IMG_3030.JPG
    128.5 KB
  • IMG_3032.JPG
    IMG_3032.JPG
    96.3 KB
  • IMG_3038.JPG
    IMG_3038.JPG
    115.7 KB
  • IMG_3042.JPG
    IMG_3042.JPG
    136.7 KB
man, I love that dash... nice work.
Not my place to have an opinion on any of it, but I could do without that radio for sure... :rolleyes:
 
man, I love that dash... nice work.
Not my place to have an opinion on any of it, but I could do without that radio for sure... :rolleyes:

Thanks. I know the radio may be too 'modern' but it was mandated by the owner. The original optional radio was a huge tube laden lump that would take up too much space behind the dash, the face was small, fitting the 2 1/2" square delete plate on the right side of the dash. This radio is about as retro looking as you can get (60's ish) with a CD and electronic gizmos... hiding it under the seat or glovebox just makes it a pain in the butt to operate. Compromise......:(
 
Assembled the grille and shell, lots of fiddly little tabs to fit together, a real pain, especially when I found out the chrome platers had put it together with the center bar upside down so it didn't fit into the tabs on the center painted divider :mad:
attachment.php


No mistaking what car it is when you see this grille coming at you :cool:

attachment.php


The Goddess of Speed

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3053.JPG
    IMG_3053.JPG
    130.6 KB
  • IMG_3051.JPG
    IMG_3051.JPG
    135.4 KB
  • IMG_3052.JPG
    IMG_3052.JPG
    97.9 KB
They sure have a touch of class. And your build has class and sass.[dr

Glad you have the pictures set up so we can scroll down instead of across.[cl
 

Latest posts

Back
Top