1949 AD-kota

[earthman]

Thanks for the updates.Improvising excellence [P

 

[Todd]

Well, I said I wasn't gonna do it...but I did. Tonight the frame was shortened 14 inches to make it 117 inch wheelbase. Then dumb me left the camera in the house. The Dakota shortens like the S10 so not a lot of new info there. Had the cab off and back on in 5 hours.

 

[SugarRay8]

Hey I have an idea, don’t leave the house without the camera.

Just went through this post start to finish, really nice build, looking forward to seeing more. [P

 

[FlatBroke]

Nice build.
I just went through from the start.

 

[Todd]

Here is the frame splice. It is the way the factory did it. I carefully took the cutoff wheel and cut behind the weld, then cleaned up the factory weld with the grinder. Cut the excess off and slid it back together (comealongs and ratchet staps were needed), checked frame square and wheelbase, then re-welded.

 

[Todd]

Started to fit the front sheet metal. Had to chase a bunch of threads plus drill and re-tap a few. There are a lot of 5/16 nc 3/4" bolts on this, glad I bought a box of them.

 

[Shea Laking]

TWO THUMBS UP!!!!!

Thanks for sharing your progress, Todd. Hope you're getting yourself better after your mishap.

Truck looks great, I'm gonna come back tonight and "look better" when I've got more time. Right now, it's back to the school bus races!

Regards,
Shea

 

[Todd]

Looked at getting the bumper and splash pan fit. Wow that was a ton of up and down, cut/grind/fit/swear/cut/grind/fit.

Here is how it finished.

After getting it tack welded here is how it was done. I used the front of the 3800 frame, radiator support forward.

 

[Shea Laking]

Great detail pics on what's probably gonna be one of the hardest areas to mate old to new. Thanks for sharing more progress![[P

Regards,
Shea

 

[Todd]

Thanks Shea.

Well I am back at work, so progress slows.

I decided to get the proportioning valve off the frame rail. This bracket is what was manufactured from the scrap pile.

Finish welded the trans mount, took out the old driveshaft and hanger bearing. Then was able to put the motor/trans in it.

Bolted up the power steering pump with Alan Grove bracket, slick stuff.

 

[38fordtruck]

very cool i dig it so far

 

[bob w]

Once again, Todd, nice work. And low cost too.

If it isn't too much trouble, could you take a pic of the P.S. pump bracket from Alan Grove? I'd like to try making a copy for my Plymmie.

 

[Todd]

here you go bob

 

[Todd]

SCORE!!! I just picked up a set of chrome smoothies in real good shape for $160. Located a 5 bolt dakota axle and rotors that I'll pick up next month.

Got a all new driveshaft made up. Also hooked up the shifter to the transmission. Just a bunch of fiddle work.

 

[Todd]

Misc pics of progress.

air cleaner lid fron a 292 I6

Speedway shift linkage, modification needed.

firewall recess for dipstick tube

 

[Shea Laking]

Another quick "check in" while I'm home for lunch break.... Looking FANTASTIC so far, Todd! I'm really following this one because the S-10 swap has never appealed to me much. Don't like the idea of great huge wheel spacers with those puny wheel bearings in there.

Out of curiosity, how does the rear track on the Dakota look? think it'll work out okay, or a little narrow? Seems most of these oldies were tapered, narrower at the front, wider at the rear. Newer trucks seem to be the opposite, where the front track width is slightly wider to afford greater turning stability...

Curious how the flange-to-flange on the Dakota diff compares to stock AD-I believe AD's are about 61" flange-to-flange.

Keep up the good work.[[P

Regards,
Shea

 

[Todd]

These things have a somewhat positive offset to the wheel. I am pretty sure I located an older one to swap in the 5 bolt axles. Just picked up a set of chrome smoothies in the small ford/mopar-chevy lug pattern. Right now the tires would rub the box sides.

 

[Shea Laking]

I just took a quick trip on "Goooooogle," hoping perhaps to find some measurements. Absolutely no luck.

You're correct about the wheel offset on those-they're very "front-wheel-drive-ish." More conventional rims with more negative offset should definately get the tires off the box sides.

I'm really impressed with how well your project looks to be coming together. Again, thanks for taking the time to share your progress and findings with us.[P

Regards,
Shea

 

[BruceR&C]

Nice progress on your AD-kota, Todd. A very different build. Not a fan of the S10 AD conversion but, this has been fun to follow.
Oh,,,the flange to flange on an AD is 60". Looking forward to more updates. [P

 

[Todd]

Little update. The brother and I went in on the Eastwood flare tool. Wow, it is easy to do. Got the front lines done and still need to run the one to the rear.

Traded a set of hubcaps for a pair of stainless '54 tail lights. So today I made the brackets and did a test fit on a spare box.