Shea Laking
Well-known member
Been awhile.... Any noteworthy progress, Todd?
Regards,
Shea
Regards,
Shea
1949 AD-kota
- Thread starter Todd
- Start date
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Todd
He's just one of them Rusty-Chainers!
Been awhile.... Any noteworthy progress, Todd?
Regards,
Shea
Hey Shea, Thanks for the interest. I have been busy with work so progress is slow. But I have been shortening a pair of 3600 box sides down to 3100 length. I'll get some pics up soon for you.
Old Iron
Well-known member
Went from start to finish on this build and really enjoyed your posts and I'm all about the Dakota swap.
Great work [cl
Great work [cl
Shea Laking
Well-known member
Cool, sorry to seem like I'm pestering... Was just hoping all was well and you hadn't "fallen off the face of the earth."
Always ready to look when you're ready to share...[P
Regards,
Shea
Snake Farm
Ol school snake charmer!
Old Iron
Well-known member
Me three!!!
Todd
He's just one of them Rusty-Chainers!
Looky here, time to share.
These are the tools to get the stake pockets off. Use the scratch pad to get the crap off to locate the spot welds. Mark the spot welds with the sharpie. Use a drill with a small bit to put a guide in for the spot weld cutter.
Left to right, sharpie, pilot, spot weld drilled.
Removed. There are about 8 spot welds per side.
I put short pieces of tape to mark 9 inches, then ran a long piece of tape to get the cut line.
I used an air powered cut off tool to shorten.
Clean up the edges and test fit the stake pocket. Clamp it all down and mark the spot welds with the sharpie so you can clean up those areas for welding. Drill the holes that mount the front box panel while it is clamped in place. After that is done, clean the areas where it will be welded, bolt the stake pocket on, clamp and weld.[
http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/todd55021/1949 Chevrolet pu/49dakota052.jpg
Remove clamps and dress the welds for this......
These are the tools to get the stake pockets off. Use the scratch pad to get the crap off to locate the spot welds. Mark the spot welds with the sharpie. Use a drill with a small bit to put a guide in for the spot weld cutter.
Left to right, sharpie, pilot, spot weld drilled.
Removed. There are about 8 spot welds per side.
I put short pieces of tape to mark 9 inches, then ran a long piece of tape to get the cut line.
I used an air powered cut off tool to shorten.
Clean up the edges and test fit the stake pocket. Clamp it all down and mark the spot welds with the sharpie so you can clean up those areas for welding. Drill the holes that mount the front box panel while it is clamped in place. After that is done, clean the areas where it will be welded, bolt the stake pocket on, clamp and weld.[
http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/todd55021/1949 Chevrolet pu/49dakota052.jpg
Remove clamps and dress the welds for this......
Shea Laking
Well-known member
Looks good, dood
Made a bracket and mounted the overflow can. Also put on a mopar t-stat housing and flex hose.
Got the Rebel wire harness mounted and roughly routed, waiting for the plugs that I didn't order with the kit.
Ran trans cooler lines to the cooler and made brackets for it. Just need to weld them in.
Next up a tech on the front marker lights.
Finally put the electric fan on
Made a bracket and mounted the overflow can. Also put on a mopar t-stat housing and flex hose.
Got the Rebel wire harness mounted and roughly routed, waiting for the plugs that I didn't order with the kit.
Ran trans cooler lines to the cooler and made brackets for it. Just need to weld them in.
Next up a tech on the front marker lights.
Todd
He's just one of them Rusty-Chainers!
The front marker lights are pretty much worthless without turnsignals. The old wire and patch ons was not very safe. Time to make it better.
A stock single wire marker light
Get it all stripped down
I wasn't going to place an order to Classic Parts for awhile, so I pulled these off the shelf. Picked up for cheap and no plans to use them.
The hole in the back needs to be opened up to about 11/16". A rat tail file worked well.
Test fitting the new socket
Marking the hole for the #6 hold down screw.
All fastened down
Now we have a marker/turn signal. I'll get yellow bulbs later, maybe.
A stock single wire marker light
Get it all stripped down
I wasn't going to place an order to Classic Parts for awhile, so I pulled these off the shelf. Picked up for cheap and no plans to use them.
The hole in the back needs to be opened up to about 11/16". A rat tail file worked well.
Test fitting the new socket
Marking the hole for the #6 hold down screw.
All fastened down
Now we have a marker/turn signal. I'll get yellow bulbs later, maybe.
Snake Farm
Ol school snake charmer!
Wow, nice progress! [cl[cl
Cool conversion on the lights!
[P[P
Cool conversion on the lights
He let me do them too. [cl
Tonight I finished getting the go-fast pedal set up.
Got the running board brackets started. Milled the slots on buddy Ron's machine down in SPAM land.
He let me do them too. [cl
Tonight I finished getting the go-fast pedal set up.
Todd
He's just one of them Rusty-Chainers!
Working on the box a bit tonight. Had some angle strips bent up and welded them to the side. The plan is to use the dakota floor and put box liner in it. No wood in the box (something doesn't sound right about that).
Looks pretty good.
Looks pretty good.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Todd, Your AD-Kota is looking really good. When do you expect to have it on the road?
Todd
He's just one of them Rusty-Chainers!
I am hoping to be yard drivable by the end of October and driving it it the spring. Maybe paint at the end of next year. I work haphazardly, if I'm feeling a project I work on it. It could come together quick.
Shea Laking
Well-known member
Yep, this truck's coming togetherREALLY well
