1952 Dodge B3b 1/2 Ton, Cummins Diesel

[1952B3b23]

Well i got around to fixing the triangular cut out that i had made on the passenger side frame rail (pic 1). It wasn't going to allow enough room for tightening the 1/2" diameter bolt that holds down the bed. So i did the same thing that i had done one the drivers side and made a 2" x 4" channel to go in there. I had to make the cut out quite a bit larger in order to get the piece of angle iron that was welded in there out. Then i patched it all back up and i think it came out decently. Some pictures for you viewing pleasure...

-Chris

 

[skull]

cool

cool idea, it looks good & very functional while adding strength to the chassis[


for spacers l used hockey pucks on the cab and bed mounts of my '48, they work good and are a lot cheaper than the poly-urethane bushings.

l got mine for free, l have a friend who worked at the local ice skating rink where the hockey teams practice/play and they blast pucks allover the arena. he found them in weirdest places while doing cleaning & maintiance.


Later

 

[1952B3b23]

Thanks a lot skull. I was kinda annoyed that I had to go back and redo that side but oh well. Plus I like the look of the channel better than the triangle anyway, at least now both sides match.

I've heard of people using hockey pucks before for the cab mounts but not on the bed, sounds like it'd work just fine though. Good thing my nephew just started playing hockey maybe I can swipe a few pucks from him

-Chris

 

[I-R-POPS]

Looking good.
Stealing from a child! Just how low will a guy go to build a hot rod?
(Don't shoot, I'm only ribbing you.)
Stay after it.

 

[falconvan]

Awesome job, I'm anxious to see the motor sitting in it. I'm sure you are, too!

 

[1952B3b23]

Looking good.
Stealing from a child! Just how low will a guy go to build a hot rod?
(Don't shoot, I'm only ribbing you.)
Stay after it.

Hahaha i'll get him an extra birthday present to make up for it. He'd probably give me them happily he really likes the '52. Im trying to get him into the hobby as early as i can, hopefully a future hot rodder.

Thanks for lookin'

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Awesome job, I'm anxious to see the motor sitting in it. I'm sure you are, too!

Ohhh yea i sure am, cant wait for that day. I'll be taking it down off the home made "frame rotisserie" pretty soon so that i can put the front suspension back together... im getting closer [cl

Thanks for lookin'

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Brakes

Hey guys, so ive been doing a bit of thinking about what im going to use for brakes on this thing. I know that in the front im putting 11" disc brakes and the back is getting a mopar 8-3/4 rear end with drums. I think these will provide good stopping power.

My question is do you think mechanical brakes will do the job? [S

I wanted to keep things simple and avoid going with a brake booster or hydroboost (i dont have power steering). Also diesels dont have manifold vacuum so running the booster would require some type of mechanical or electrical vacuum pump. Im not looking to go racing, I really just want this thing to be safe.

Any input is appreciated, this is one part of the truck i dont have completely sorted out yet.

Thanks in advance,

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Brakes

I was thinking about something along these lines from Wilwood:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-Forward-Swing-Dual-Master-Cylinder-Brake-Pedal,1960.html

I've never used them but ive heard good things. Thoughts?

-Chris

 

[skull]

rat

same set-up on the 30, l like it, but on mine l had to run residual valves to keep the pedal from being to soft & bleeding off.

look on E-bay, l got mine for 1/2 of what they cost new.

Later

 

[1952B3b23]

Thanks skull. Yea I'll look around maybe I can score something on eBay a bit cheaper. I have some time before I actually need to start on brake pedal placement etc. I found a good schematic online somewhere of a disc/drum brake set up and it includes residual valves. From all the reading I've done they say residual valves are a must. looks like your first hand experience confirms that. How's the stopping on your '30?

-Chris

 

[skull]

haven't

l haven't got the residuals in yet, it still stops 0K but it's got 4 wheel disc & she's a light car, only weighs about 25OO LBS. l have power brakes on the 48 truck & it weighs 3OOO LBS, disc front/drum set-up on her.

Later

 

[1952B3b23]

l haven't got the residuals in yet, it still stops 0K but it's got 4 wheel disc & she's a light car, only weighs about 25OO LBS. l have power brakes on the 48 truck & it weighs 3OOO LBS, disc front/drum set-up on her.

Later

I found this article online that talks about different brake setups. Heres the link,

http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/ind...tent&view=category&layout=blog&id=8&Itemid=16

It seems that with a disc/disc setup you would only need 2 lb residual valves if the master cylinder is mounted below the calipers. Other than that it says you'd need a , "four wheel disc brake combination valve (PV4)." That info can be found in the fourth picture on the above website. I dont know if you have a combination valve plumbed in, maybe thats why it doesnt stop as well? Thats just me thinking out loud, i dont know if thats the problem or not.

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Accomplished a little bit this weekend, not really anything to picture worthy. I'm getting ready to put the front suspension back together. so I spent a lot of time with a wire brush wheel and cleaned up the spindles,steering arms,and front axle. Then I shot some primer on them to keep the surface rust away. I also bought all the parts for the disc brake kit that's going on the stock axle. I got the kit from "rustyhope.com", the guys name is Charlie and he makes disc brake kits for early mopars. Basically you just buy the caliper mounting brackets from him and get the rest of the parts at the auto parts store. I hope to be able to install the kit next weekend.

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Front Suspension

I got a little bit more work done so far this weekend. I finished painting most of the front suspension components. I used a rustoleum primer, it sprays on in a redish color instead of the usual gray. I then gave it a few top coats with rustoleum black "hammered" paint. I decided to go with the hammered paint cause it gives the parts a textured look and hides some of the imperfections in the metal.

Then i installed the leaf springs, front axle and installed the king pins. Next step is to put on the rest of the front suspension and disc brake kit. Some pictures for your viewing pleasure.

-Chris

 

[I-R-POPS]

Looking good!
Stay after it.

 

[falconvan]

Nice! Looks fresh off the assembly line!

 

[1952B3b23]

Thanks guys! Cant wait to get this thing back on the ground and put the motor/trans in. New front suspension parts should be here this monday, wooohooo. [cl

-Chris

 

[Torchie]

Good call on the "Hammered" Rustoleum.
I personaly never liked the look of a Glossy frame unless it was painted the same color as the body.
Torchie.

 

[1952B3b23]

Good call on the "Hammered" Rustoleum.
I personaly never liked the look of a Glossy frame unless it was painted the same color as the body.
Torchie.

Thanks Torchie. I really like the look of the hammered paint. It gives it more of a grayish black color then just straight up gloss black.

-Chris