1952 Dodge B3b 1/2 Ton, Cummins Diesel

[1952B3b23]

Looks like you are moving right along!
The hydraulic mounts are stock on a lot of newer cars, should do just what you expect, cut down on vibrations!

Thanks DR. I'm trying like heck to do as much as I can now during the winter while I have time. These are the same types of mounts that came on the motor when it was in the Oshkosh box truck. So I think they'll work well.

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Here's a small update, not much for actual physical progress but i did a lot of planning, measuring and have a good way to continue with my front motor mounts that will go in the frame. I attached the Ranger OD to the 4bt and the T19, then slapped the whole thing between the rails. Its going to fit pretty well without any major interference issues. Heres some pics for your viewing pleasure.

-Chris

 

[kenny c]

Looks like nice progress to me.[cl

 

[1952B3b23]

Thanks Kenny. Yea some progress is better than nothing that's for sure.

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Got some work accomplished today. Made the frame side motor mounts, i think they came out decent and very sturdy. Next in line is to make the tranny crossmember.

-Chris

 

[Dirtyrat]

They look good, nice and sturdy which is what you need for that 4bt!

 

[1952B3b23]

Thanks DR! Yea the 4bt is a pretty heavy guy so it needs some HD mounts.

-Chris

 

[maverickmk]

That motor is really cool. You are making some good progress.

 

[1952B3b23]

That motor is really cool. You are making some good progress.

Thanks mave, 4bts are very cool little motors. They're rugged, reliable, and get good fuel economy. I've never done this before so I'm pretty slow at it. I need to think things thru a million times before actually doing anything. I think it's coming out half way decent for my 1st build.

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Transmission Crossmember

I did some work this weekend on fabbing up the transmission crossmember. The idea was to make two brackets that get welded to the frame on one end and bolt to the crossmember on either side. The crossmember is a 4" wide by 3/16" thick piece of channel iron. The brackets are made of 1/4" plate. I will bolt the two together using 7/16 bolts (grade 9). They should be plenty strong and make it nice and easy to remove the tranny mount when needed.

The pics that i've attached are of the passenger side mount. The rectangular plate is what gets welded to the inside of the frame rail. The angled portions of the bracket also gets welded to the frame before being boxed in. The brackets will get boxed in with more 1/4" plate and have a cut out so that i can get at the mounting bolts. All that babbling makes much more sense when you look at the pics. [P

Thanks for looking,

-Chris

 

[blacksheep]

Just found this thread, and I like it. Always loved the 4BT and 6 BT cummins motors. Most all backhoes wre made using that motor, along with countless others. Parts are easy to find , because you can go to either heavy equipment aftermarket , or marine aftermarket for parts. Nice job on the tranny brackets.

 

[1952B3b23]

Just found this thread, and I like it. Always loved the 4BT and 6 BT cummins motors. Most all backhoes wre made using that motor, along with countless others. Parts are easy to find , because you can go to either heavy equipment aftermarket , or marine aftermarket for parts. Nice job on the tranny brackets.

Thank you. Yea im a big 4bt and 6bt fan as well. The best part is that a 4bt is essentially a 6bt missing two cylinders, so lots of parts interchange. They are used in countless aplications so it is pretty easy to find parts for them. One thing to be careful of is using a stationary 4bt setup (like a genset) in car or truck. The governors inside the injection pumps are different than the on-road versions. The stationary setups need to be converted for on road use and from a money stand point its usually makes much more sense to just buy an on road motor. Also there are differences between the 4b and 6b when compared to a 4bt or 6bt. The "t" stands for turbo charged so a 4b is natuarally aspirated. Some of those parts will not swap to a 4bt. They are fantastic motors though, very reliable, good fuel efficiency, and lots of torque and can be tuned for some serious power.

Thanks for the compliments on the brackets. I had a few designs in mind but this was the best looking set up and will make it very easy to remove the crossmember when needed.

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Made some progress this weekend, the engine and tranny are finally between the rails on their own supports! I finished fabbing up the tranny crossmember, i think it came out pretty well. Its very easy to take off and put on. Its just a matter of undoing the 8 bolts (Grade 9, 7/16). The output shaft of the transmission is sitting at 3 degrees down.

I will finish welding the crossmember support brackets to the frame when i put the frame back up on my homemade rotisserie. Currently they're welded along the top side and tacked all around. I'm also going to box in the support brackets with 1/4 inch plate and leave a cutout to get at the bolts. I also left enough room between the transmission and the support bracket to fit a 4" diameter exhaust pipe (If i need to go that big).

I've been waiting so long for this, feels good.

Thanks for looking,

-Chris

 

[skull]

progress

cool, foreward movement is good.

Later

 

[Country Misfit]

That engine looks ,right at home.Very nice fab work.

 

[1952B3b23]

Thanks guys. Every bit of progress is more motivation.

-Chris

 

[falconvan]

Looks great, Chris!

 

[1952B3b23]

Looks great, Chris!

Thank you.

 

[1952B3b23]

I got a little bit of work done this weekend. Moved the cab back into position to see how things are looking for clearance with the firewall. Looks like ill have to recess the firewall to give more space for the last valve cover and the fuel line that runs behind there. It also looks like i will be able to keep the floor pretty flat, just a slight hump for the bell housing. I'll also have to recess the firewall for the turbo down pipe.

I also took some time today to fab up a patch panel for the gas tank filler hole in the side of the cab. Im going to run the new tank under the bed all the way at the rear of the frame so the hole isnt needed anymore. I used a small contour gauge so that i'd get the right shape for the patch and beat it out of 18 gauge on my leather sand bag from Eastwood. It came out decent for being my first time using a panel beater bag. Then i welded it up and smoothed the welds with a 120 grit flap disc. It still needs a little hammer and dollie work to be just right but its darn close. [

Do you guys use any type of seam sealer on the inside edges of the patch? It'll end up being covered by sound proofing material at some point.

Thanks for looking,

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

Heres a few more pics of the gas tank filler hole patching.

-Chris