peabody
Well-known member
your truck is ..... wow.
triple +++1 !!
triple +++1 !!
1952 F-6 Build
- Thread starter Torchie
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Torchie, Torchie, Torchie, you've been sneaking out to the shop lately and not telling us. The rear, bottom of the hood miraculously appeared and I've been watching for that. It looks nice, but how can I believe it if it wasn't documented properly.[ddd
Keep on tinkering.
Keep on tinkering.
Torchie
Well-known member
Mac, Mac, Mac.
You must be slipping up or you are spending to much time in 33 Plymouth coupe dream land.
[cl Rear bottom of the hood is just as I left it when mating the two. Just a line drawn to show cut off location.
Started on the front fender filler pieces today and also did some work to the cab mounts. Nothing photo worthy.
Supposedly having some help tomorrow to pull the front clip.
Thanks for looking in.
Torchie.
Last edited:
Torchie
Well-known member
Spent the entire day out in the garage....
...and man will I be sore tomorrow.
Started on the front fender filler piece today.
Pic 1. Shows the gap. The fenders flanges are flush to the cowl in this pic. But they aren't at a 90 to the fender.
Pic 2. The white lines show where the outside edge of the hood falls on the fender tops. So the gap between the fenders and the cowl is the right width.
Pic 3. Shows the n41 front fender flange that I spoke of. Here it is with a little grinding started.
Pic 4. Made some relief cuts to aid in the bending. Notice the dimples from the original Ford pressing.
Pic 5. Using a body hammer and dolly I hammered back the flanges to more of a 90 degree angle to the edge. This where I will attach my filler piece.
Once done with that we turned to the front axle.
To be continued in next post......
...and man will I be sore tomorrow.
Started on the front fender filler piece today.
Pic 1. Shows the gap. The fenders flanges are flush to the cowl in this pic. But they aren't at a 90 to the fender.
Pic 2. The white lines show where the outside edge of the hood falls on the fender tops. So the gap between the fenders and the cowl is the right width.
Pic 3. Shows the n41 front fender flange that I spoke of. Here it is with a little grinding started.
Pic 4. Made some relief cuts to aid in the bending. Notice the dimples from the original Ford pressing.
Pic 5. Using a body hammer and dolly I hammered back the flanges to more of a 90 degree angle to the edge. This where I will attach my filler piece.
Once done with that we turned to the front axle.
To be continued in next post......
Attachments
Torchie
Well-known member
Part 2 of latest post.
Since we had the front clip off we decided to tackle the problem of the King pins.
DS is siezed and PS is very tight. They will need to be pressed out.
Pic 1. Here is the front axle. Stock 41 Ford car, spring in front set up. With the exception of some home made, add on shocks and brackets. Ford had a options for tube shocks on this year. But these ain't it.
Bottom shock mounting bolt is welded to the top of the axle.
Pic 2. Used this pipe wrench to get the grease cap unthreaded. It is older than the car.
Pic 3. Spindle with the drum and backing plate removed. Here you can see the front sway bar as well.
Pic 4. My favorite nuts and bolts holder. It's "Heavenly". And metal too.[cl
Pic 5. Axle and spring is out. I will need to remove the shocks and sway bar as well as the spring before getting to a shop with a press. A spring speader will be used as the 41 was the last year to have the springs installed under pressure.
Everything came apart well considering the amount of rust. Only problem was the turn stop/king pin lock bolt on the DS. Nut came out but the bolt is stuck. More work for the press.
Thanks for looking in.
Torchie.
Since we had the front clip off we decided to tackle the problem of the King pins.
DS is siezed and PS is very tight. They will need to be pressed out.
Pic 1. Here is the front axle. Stock 41 Ford car, spring in front set up. With the exception of some home made, add on shocks and brackets. Ford had a options for tube shocks on this year. But these ain't it.
Bottom shock mounting bolt is welded to the top of the axle.
Pic 2. Used this pipe wrench to get the grease cap unthreaded. It is older than the car.
Pic 3. Spindle with the drum and backing plate removed. Here you can see the front sway bar as well.
Pic 4. My favorite nuts and bolts holder. It's "Heavenly". And metal too.[cl
Pic 5. Axle and spring is out. I will need to remove the shocks and sway bar as well as the spring before getting to a shop with a press. A spring speader will be used as the 41 was the last year to have the springs installed under pressure.
Everything came apart well considering the amount of rust. Only problem was the turn stop/king pin lock bolt on the DS. Nut came out but the bolt is stuck. More work for the press.
Thanks for looking in.
Torchie.
Attachments
1952B3b23
Well-known member
Looks like some real good progress Torchie.
-Chris
-Chris
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
Oh how I dread working on seized king pins... I feel your pain...
Torchie
Well-known member
As predicted I'm the one thats feeling the pain right now DR.
But I am glad that with some help I was able to get something done.
Torchie.
Torchie
Well-known member
Meant to post this last night..
Started on the front fender filler pieces.
Pic 1. The mounting flange on the fender at it's new angle.
Pic 2. This is what I am using for the filler piece. 1" square stock.
Pic 3. Since I don't have anything like a bender we will have to bend it like
this.
Pic 4. Upper part of the curve. fits good. But did I forget to mention this is kind of a compound curve.
Pic 5. Here you can see the rear edge of the fender and how it curves to fit the cowl sides as well.
Put a couple of slices into the stock to from a different side to allow it to conform to the curve.
A few tacks will hold it on for a trial fitment.
On to the other side.
Thanks for looking in...
Torchie.
Started on the front fender filler pieces.
Pic 1. The mounting flange on the fender at it's new angle.
Pic 2. This is what I am using for the filler piece. 1" square stock.
Pic 3. Since I don't have anything like a bender we will have to bend it like
this.
Pic 4. Upper part of the curve. fits good. But did I forget to mention this is kind of a compound curve.
Pic 5. Here you can see the rear edge of the fender and how it curves to fit the cowl sides as well.
Put a couple of slices into the stock to from a different side to allow it to conform to the curve.
A few tacks will hold it on for a trial fitment.
On to the other side.
Thanks for looking in...
Torchie.
Attachments
Old Iron
Well-known member
[cl [cl [P [P [P[ [ [
[ [
1952B3b23
Well-known member
With enough cuts and and clamps you'll get a good fitting piece. Carry on. [
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Boy Torchie, having the best looking front end, comes at a price. You are handling it well and paying the price. Keep on tinkering.
Torchie
Well-known member
2nd verse. Same as the first.....
Thanks guys.
Did the second side of the clip this morning.
Both sides are now tacked to the fenders for a trial fit.
With some help from friends the front clip will go back on tomorrow.
Thank for looking.......
Torchie.[[[[[
p.s. We need a grinder smilies as well.
Thanks guys.
Did the second side of the clip this morning.
Both sides are now tacked to the fenders for a trial fit.
With some help from friends the front clip will go back on tomorrow.
Thank for looking.......
Torchie.[
[[[[p.s. We need a grinder smilies as well.
Attachments
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
You are doing a nice job on this. I've done a couple pieces like this, its a real pain and you are making it look easy, and better than I did by far getting a consistent bend.
Torchie
Well-known member
They Fit !!!!!
Got out in the garage tonight and after helping a friend do a quick rear brake job we turned our attention to fitting the front clip back on to see how the filler pieces would work.
O
Pic 1 and 2. marked and removed to final piece of the F series hood that was too long.
Pic 3 and 4 . Fitted the clip back on. Looks good to me. [cl.
If I go full on custom this seam will be welded up and then filled. My intent at this point is to get it close enough so that I can use Factory style welting. And once the fender is fully bolted to the cowl I believe that I will have acheived that.
I have seen a few customs with molded parts that have had damage and they have to be cut apart to replace front or rear fenders.
Still need to do some adjustment to the entire clip as well as hood alignment but that is for another day.
Thanks for looking in...
Torchie.
Got out in the garage tonight and after helping a friend do a quick rear brake job we turned our attention to fitting the front clip back on to see how the filler pieces would work.
O
Pic 1 and 2. marked and removed to final piece of the F series hood that was too long.
Pic 3 and 4 . Fitted the clip back on. Looks good to me. [cl
.If I go full on custom this seam will be welded up and then filled. My intent at this point is to get it close enough so that I can use Factory style welting. And once the fender is fully bolted to the cowl I believe that I will have acheived that.
I have seen a few customs with molded parts that have had damage and they have to be cut apart to replace front or rear fenders.
Still need to do some adjustment to the entire clip as well as hood alignment but that is for another day.
Thanks for looking in...
Torchie.
Attachments
Flipper_1938
He recycles the right way
It is really starting to come together and look like it belongs that way! [cl
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
That sir, is a freaking awesome idea and execution!
Something to consider on the next bubble top I do, I'm going to do something like that and weld the roof to it before cutting it for proper support and to keep the curvature proper in the roof.
Something to consider on the next bubble top I do, I'm going to do something like that and weld the roof to it before cutting it for proper support and to keep the curvature proper in the roof.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Excellent work Torchie. WOrth the effort because it looks outstanding.
Torchie
Well-known member
Thanks gang.
That's pretty much what gold03 did when he chopped his. And it turned out great.
One of my thoughts DR was to make the cut back real close to rear roof ridge/seam following that contour, and then move the whole roof intact forward. And add the filler piece there.
When I contemplated this chop I was promised a complete upper cab from another truck to use. I would have ended up with just one seam. But alas......
Think I will spend some time on the front axle assembly today.
Torchie.
christcrusader13
Zip-Tie Mechanic
That's a TON of little work to make it all come together keep at it!
