1952B3b23
Well-known member
Fits like a glove, well done Torchie!! [cl
-Chris
-Chris
1952 F-6 Build
- Thread starter Torchie
- Start date
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Torchie
Well-known member
Thanks gang......
Cold, gray day here in Northern Michigan. What a surprise.
Started to stirp out the front axle assembly as all the shackles and studs and Kingpins need to be replaced.
Pic 1. Full 1941 Ford car axle assembly with the addition of some funky shocks. Ford went to the spring in front style in 37 I believe. And stayed with it with some mods in their cars until the 49 models came out.
Pic 2. Shows the perch pins as well as how the front sway bar mounts. The eyelet right in front of the tube shock is the attaching point for the stock Ford shocks.
Pic 3. First off is the sway bar. Since most if not all the shackle studs were seized a carefull use of a small cut off wheel was in order.
Pic 4. Old school hot rodding at it's finest. I'm going to run front shocks but not this way. Going to be lots of future cutting and grinding here.
Pic 5. Now for the spring. 1941 and earlier springs are attached under load so I used my porta-power to keep the spring from snapping back when I cut the shackles. Lots of Horror story's out there in regards to this task so saftey first.
Pic 6. Down to the essentials now. Need to press/pound the Kingpins out as well as DS stop bolt.. I will not be removing the wish bones/spring perch's as they appear to be fine and getting the perch's out makes removing seized Kingpins look like a walk in the park.
Hope to get it over to a shop for some press time this weekend.
Thanks for visiting.....
Torchie.
Cold, gray day here in Northern Michigan. What a surprise.
Started to stirp out the front axle assembly as all the shackles and studs and Kingpins need to be replaced.
Pic 1. Full 1941 Ford car axle assembly with the addition of some funky shocks. Ford went to the spring in front style in 37 I believe. And stayed with it with some mods in their cars until the 49 models came out.
Pic 2. Shows the perch pins as well as how the front sway bar mounts. The eyelet right in front of the tube shock is the attaching point for the stock Ford shocks.
Pic 3. First off is the sway bar. Since most if not all the shackle studs were seized a carefull use of a small cut off wheel was in order.
Pic 4. Old school hot rodding at it's finest.
I'm going to run front shocks but not this way. Going to be lots of future cutting and grinding here.Pic 5. Now for the spring. 1941 and earlier springs are attached under load so I used my porta-power to keep the spring from snapping back when I cut the shackles. Lots of Horror story's out there in regards to this task so saftey first.
Pic 6. Down to the essentials now. Need to press/pound the Kingpins out as well as DS stop bolt.. I will not be removing the wish bones/spring perch's as they appear to be fine and getting the perch's out makes removing seized Kingpins look like a walk in the park.
Hope to get it over to a shop for some press time this weekend.
Thanks for visiting.....
Torchie.
Attachments
Torchie
Well-known member
After a lot of grunting it's obvious that the king pins aren't coming out with out a press.
So tomorrow it will be on to something else.....
Torchie.
So tomorrow it will be on to something else.....
Torchie.
keep hammering away at it. you're making great progress.
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
I had to use a torch, and I think it was a 20ton hydraulic press...
they are a complete pain...
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Hey Torchie, scroll Back through my build to see what I did. I still strained my gizzard, but they came out.
Torchie
Well-known member
Good to hear from you gold.
My friend has a press that has the needed implements to remove the king pins.
So I will let the press do the work for me.
I'm still trying to figure out if I have the strength left to pull up my non-functioning submersable well pump.
Torchie.
My friend has a press that has the needed implements to remove the king pins.
So I will let the press do the work for me.
I'm still trying to figure out if I have the strength left to pull up my non-functioning submersable well pump.
Torchie.
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
Ugh! what happened to the well pump? just dead or?
Torchie
Well-known member
My March madness continues here...
Started on Tuesday morning DR. Low pressure. Now it has stopped entirely.
Well guy came out and said that he thinks it could be a couple of things.(None good). BUT. He can't even work on it until the snow is either melted or we plow a path to it so he can get his truck in there.
For as much snow as we have lost. WE still have a lot left. Plus It snowed 2 inches last night.
The well is behind the house which would mean clearing a path with a front loader of about of about 70-80 yards around the house.$$$$. Plus we are in frost laws now I believe so I don't even know if I can get one here...
Well is about 200 feet and it has a submersable pump of course.[cl. I am weighing the possibilities of pulling the pump by hand.[S
Makes you wanna go and pound out some king pins doesn't it.
Torchie.
Started on Tuesday morning DR. Low pressure. Now it has stopped entirely.
Well guy came out and said that he thinks it could be a couple of things.(None good). BUT. He can't even work on it until the snow is either melted or we plow a path to it so he can get his truck in there.
For as much snow as we have lost. WE still have a lot left. Plus It snowed 2 inches last night.
The well is behind the house which would mean clearing a path with a front loader of about of about 70-80 yards around the house.$$$$. Plus we are in frost laws now I believe so I don't even know if I can get one here...
Well is about 200 feet and it has a submersable pump of course.[cl. I am weighing the possibilities of pulling the pump by hand.[S
Makes you wanna go and pound out some king pins doesn't it.
Torchie.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
That sux! Hope your well problems turn out better than mine did.
We tried for a week to pull ours via boom truck then two different well
service companies.
Ended up having to drill a new one and used pvc casing instead of steel.
We didn't even have any snow to melt for water for 12 days.
Water is one thing you just gotta to have..
Good luck
We tried for a week to pull ours via boom truck then two different well
service companies.
Ended up having to drill a new one and used pvc casing instead of steel.
We didn't even have any snow to melt for water for 12 days.
Water is one thing you just gotta to have..
Good luck
Torchie
Well-known member
We've got snow I-R...
But with me and 3 dogs it's getting kinda yellow around here.
PVC well casing so we shouldn't have that problem.
I know you guys are probably getting tired of me messing with this front clip. (So am I)
Last pics of the fenders showed the filler pieces put in but we just eyeballed the location for a mounting hole. Turns out I am blinder that I thought as rear of the fender hits the lower door hinge and worse the front of the hood didn't come close to matching the top of the grill.
So I spent some time today fixing that.
Pic 1. Borrowed some of my wifes baking paper and lined it up on the cowl using the seam that runs under the A pillar and the cowl door opening edge.
Pic 2 and 3. Held the fender up to where it should be and traced the fender contour with a fine markie. Notice the correct gap from the door hinge.
Pic 4. Took the template over and taped it to the PS cowl using the same orientation points but with the marked side facing in. Notice how the marking from the other side shows thru.[cl
Now I will have a better idea where to make the final mounting holes as well as being reasonably sure that the fenders are located in the same place on both sides.
Pic 5. Show the fenders once again just sitting loosely.
The plan is to fully mount the fenders tomorrow and then turn my attention back to the hood. I want to be able to have the welding and grinding done on the cab and front clip by the end of the month so I can pull them off and start cleaning and painting the frame. If the weather ever warms up.[S
Thanks for visiting.......
Torchie.
But with me and 3 dogs it's getting kinda yellow around here.
PVC well casing so we shouldn't have that problem.
I know you guys are probably getting tired of me messing with this front clip. (So am I)
Last pics of the fenders showed the filler pieces put in but we just eyeballed the location for a mounting hole. Turns out I am blinder that I thought as rear of the fender hits the lower door hinge and worse the front of the hood didn't come close to matching the top of the grill.
So I spent some time today fixing that.
Pic 1. Borrowed some of my wifes baking paper and lined it up on the cowl using the seam that runs under the A pillar and the cowl door opening edge.
Pic 2 and 3. Held the fender up to where it should be and traced the fender contour with a fine markie. Notice the correct gap from the door hinge.
Pic 4. Took the template over and taped it to the PS cowl using the same orientation points but with the marked side facing in. Notice how the marking from the other side shows thru.[cl
Now I will have a better idea where to make the final mounting holes as well as being reasonably sure that the fenders are located in the same place on both sides.
Pic 5. Show the fenders once again just sitting loosely.
The plan is to fully mount the fenders tomorrow and then turn my attention back to the hood. I want to be able to have the welding and grinding done on the cab and front clip by the end of the month so I can pull them off and start cleaning and painting the frame. If the weather ever warms up.[S
Thanks for visiting.......
Torchie.
Attachments
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
You're surely a man of patience and I commend you for that
and your eye for detail.
It's looking great.
and your eye for detail.
It's looking great.
Torchie
Well-known member
Sorry for the bluuuuuurry pics...
..my eyes aren't worth a **** today.
Final mounting of of the front fenders today. As I said in a previous post the were to far back and the door hinge hit when opened.
Pic 1. Using the exsisting mounting hole that I put thru the filler piece. Trimmed away some of the template so I can remark the cowl.
Pic 2 . Template back in place.
Pic 3. Because of the curve of the fender I can't get anything up inside the fender and thru the hole to make a mark on the cowl. So I used a same size but shorter bolt. Put it thru the mounting hole with the head sticking out. Grapped an old can os paint and smeared some on the head.
Pic 4. using the template as a guide I prtessed the fender against the cowl and the painted bolt head left it's mark.
Pic 5. Hole drilled and fender mounted and secured. Notice the gap at the lower hinge now. Much better. Repeat on other side.
Pic 6. Hood nose and grill top are back where they belong.
That's it for today...
Torchie.
..my eyes aren't worth a **** today.
Final mounting of of the front fenders today. As I said in a previous post the were to far back and the door hinge hit when opened.
Pic 1. Using the exsisting mounting hole that I put thru the filler piece. Trimmed away some of the template so I can remark the cowl.
Pic 2 . Template back in place.
Pic 3. Because of the curve of the fender I can't get anything up inside the fender and thru the hole to make a mark on the cowl. So I used a same size but shorter bolt. Put it thru the mounting hole with the head sticking out. Grapped an old can os paint and smeared some on the head.
Pic 4. using the template as a guide I prtessed the fender against the cowl and the painted bolt head left it's mark.
Pic 5. Hole drilled and fender mounted and secured. Notice the gap at the lower hinge now. Much better. Repeat on other side.
Pic 6. Hood nose and grill top are back where they belong.
That's it for today...
Torchie.
Attachments
christcrusader13
Zip-Tie Mechanic
Looking good keep on truckin'...
Torchie
Well-known member
People wonder why my project isn't finished yet,
This is what passes for fun here in N. Michigan.
So for those of you that have been following this build you are aware that the lastest test of my endurance has been a lack of water in the house do to ???
Fixed it today.
The following shows how you pull a submersable pump out of a 191' well by hand.
To much snow to be able to get the winch truck near the well head.
So we are going old school.
Pic 1. Pop the well cap off and this is what you see. Disconnected the wiring and two of us tried to pull it up by hand.
Thats not happening as the down pipe was mostly full of water due to a lower check valve.
Pic 2. Break out the gear. Home made cinch lift. Old pump handle and a pipe upright. Problems is it only has about a 12 inch lift.
Pic 3-4. Here was the procedure. Upper clamp. Cinch and lift. Lower clamp to keep pipe from slipping back down. One of the hardest parts was keeping the 20 ft long section that were full of water from bending over as they came out of the pipe.
Pic 5. Pump out and here was the problem. Cracked housing. Replaced with a Gould all stainless and brass submersable. No more plastic.[cl
Putting it back in was easy as we just let the sections down the well casing, then clamped and added next section. Not nearly as heavy with no water in the pipe. About 2-1/2 hours to pull and about 45 min to reinstall.
Thats it for today...
Torchie.
This is what passes for fun here in N. Michigan.
So for those of you that have been following this build you are aware that the lastest test of my endurance has been a lack of water in the house do to ???
Fixed it today.
The following shows how you pull a submersable pump out of a 191' well by hand.
To much snow to be able to get the winch truck near the well head.
So we are going old school.
Pic 1. Pop the well cap off and this is what you see. Disconnected the wiring and two of us tried to pull it up by hand.
Thats not happening as the down pipe was mostly full of water due to a lower check valve.
Pic 2. Break out the gear. Home made cinch lift. Old pump handle and a pipe upright. Problems is it only has about a 12 inch lift.
Pic 3-4. Here was the procedure. Upper clamp. Cinch and lift. Lower clamp to keep pipe from slipping back down.
One of the hardest parts was keeping the 20 ft long section that were full of water from bending over as they came out of the pipe.Pic 5. Pump out and here was the problem. Cracked housing. Replaced with a Gould all stainless and brass submersable. No more plastic.[cl
Putting it back in was easy as we just let the sections down the well casing, then clamped and added next section. Not nearly as heavy with no water in the pipe. About 2-1/2 hours to pull and about 45 min to reinstall.
Thats it for today...
Torchie.
Attachments
Old Iron
Well-known member
Pump went out so we pulled mine and replace the pump.
A year later, we needed to put a liner in Dad's so we pulled his.
So I feel for ya Torchie
A year later, we needed to put a liner in Dad's so we pulled his.
So I feel for ya Torchie
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
Man oh man that looks like a real pain... 190ft and only a foot at a time movement?
Yikes!
Glad you got it done and fixed!
Yikes!
Glad you got it done and fixed!
Torchie
Well-known member
It was kind of like that hard to reach nut that you can only turn an 1/8 of a turn at a time DR[S
Plus the pump was only down about 175 feet.
as the well is 191 total.My hands and back are fake leg are already talking to me. Going to be interesting in the morning when I rise and hopefully shine.[cl
Torchie.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
Glad you got it fixed. It sux being with out water'
Torchie
Well-known member
Still reveling in the novelty of indoor plumbing.....
..but I did manage to get out to the shop.
Now that the cab and hood are in postion and mounted it is time to revisit the hood.
As all you F-1 people out there know there is not a lot of adjustment available for these hoods. The unsprung side hinges are bolted to the side of the cowl with 3 bolts. The holes for these bolts are slightly oversized allowing for some verticle and horizontal movement.
Pic 1. shows the current rear hood edge/cowl gap. When you lift the hood it catches on the cowl and the vent.
Pic 2. DS gap. WOW.
Pic 3. PS after loosening the side hinge mounting bolts and moving it all the way forward. At least as far as I could get it to move.[S
So here is the plan. I am going to remove the 41 hood and see what I can do about adjusting the F-hood portion. I may have to remove that as well to elongate the mounting hole to allow for more forward movement.
At this time I am also planning on filling the cowl vent so I might just remove that all together.
All of this points to why I just screwed the hoods together before any welding. Most likely there will need to be some realignment of that as well.
Thanks for stopping by.....
Torchie.
..but I did manage to get out to the shop.
Now that the cab and hood are in postion and mounted it is time to revisit the hood.
As all you F-1 people out there know there is not a lot of adjustment available for these hoods. The unsprung side hinges are bolted to the side of the cowl with 3 bolts. The holes for these bolts are slightly oversized allowing for some verticle and horizontal movement.
Pic 1. shows the current rear hood edge/cowl gap. When you lift the hood it catches on the cowl and the vent.
Pic 2. DS gap. WOW.
Pic 3. PS after loosening the side hinge mounting bolts and moving it all the way forward. At least as far as I could get it to move.[S
So here is the plan. I am going to remove the 41 hood and see what I can do about adjusting the F-hood portion. I may have to remove that as well to elongate the mounting hole to allow for more forward movement.
At this time I am also planning on filling the cowl vent so I might just remove that all together.
All of this points to why I just screwed the hoods together before any welding. Most likely there will need to be some realignment of that as well.
Thanks for stopping by.....
Torchie.
