1952 F-6 Build

[icebox]

Mine is the same way . I spoke to a guy about blasting it. Not cheap but I think I will get it done once I get the frame all welded up . Looks like you're getting more done than I am.Did get a little time out in the garage tonight.

 

[Torchie]

A few shops around here that could blast it IB as we have all the oil field equipment service companys near bye. But I would have to borrow a truck to get it somewhere. A couple of guys claim that they had theirs blasted and powder coated for about $250 in Traverse some where.
My auto parts guy (Whom I trust) said to just leave it alone. Don't grind it and just shoot it with the chassis saver.
Short of blasting it and then laying down numerous coats of hi-build primer. Followed by much block sanding It's never going to look new again anyway. So at this point I am leaning towards what ever gives the best results for the least amount of work and $$$$$.
Typical ain't it. [cl
My progress for the week may be over as I have to attend a memorial service tomorrow followed by Drs appts. on Friday.
I was hoping to see some progress posts from you.
Torchie.

 

[I-R-POPS]

Torchie, I'm right there with you on the least amount of work and $$$$
on the frame, I'm going to just pressure wash mine and shoot it with
chassis saver.

Stay after it. It's looking good.

 

[Torchie]

Torchie, I'm right there with you on the least amount of work and $$$$
on the frame, I'm going to just pressure wash mine and shoot it with
chassis saver.

Stay after it. It's looking good.[/QUOTE

POPS you are a man after my own heart.
My plan is to have as much ready to shoot as I can. Move it all outside and do it all at once.
I am going to use the satin chassis saver.
Torchie.

 

[smallfoot]

I have never used chassis saver and have no experience with it. By looking at prices around, I get a pretty good bang for the buck by using ospho and rustoleum. If getting it really smooth is not important, the ospho coated on good chemically reacts and changes the structure of the rust. The rustoleum products work well over it with minimal work. You can put ospho on with a spray bottle or paint it on with a brush and it powders some when dried. That powder can be brushed off or painted over. Swear by it for rust control and have used it for years. Ace sells it for $14+ a qt.

 

[Torchie]

I have never used chassis saver and have no experience with it. By looking at prices around, I get a pretty good bang for the buck by using ospho and rustoleum. If getting it really smooth is not important, the ospho coated on good chemically reacts and changes the structure of the rust. The rustoleum products work well over it with minimal work. You can put ospho on with a spray bottle or paint it on with a brush and it powders some when dried. That powder can be brushed off or painted over. Swear by it for rust control and have used it for years. Ace sells it for $14+ a qt.

Thanks for the info smallfoot.
I have read about ospho but have never used it. Good to hear about it firsthand from someone that has used it.
I have been a rustoleum fan for years and I even use it on my wooden boat restorations when painting lapstrake style boats. The pic is of the last one I did that went to your home state last Dec.
I was planning on using Rustoleum satin black on the frame but my friends that runs a part store gave me a deal on some chassis saver satin black so I think that I will give it a try. He is also telling me not to bother with the frame grinding, but I may give the frame rails a quick once over just to smooth them down a little.
Torchie.

 

[Bamamav]

Home Depot also carries the Ospho. Less than $20 a gallon when I bought mine.

 

[icebox]

Hopefully I will get some time out in the garage tomorrow . I plan on working on the floor in the box. An mounting the gas tank.I got my wiring harness the other day. WOW what a pile of spaghetti . I ordered the book Hot rod wiring by Dennis Overholser . I hope it will help .

 

[Torchie]

Hopefully I will get some time out in the garage tomorrow . I plan on working on the floor in the box. An mounting the gas tank.I got my wiring harness the other day. WOW what a pile of spaghetti . I ordered the book Hot rod wiring by Dennis Overholser . I hope it will help .

Good luck with your wiring IB. You shouldn't have any problems as long as you keep it simple.[S
I have done a fair amount of wiring in the past as I used to work on vintage Brit sports cars and 75% of their issues can be attributed to wiring (Courtesy of Lucas. The Prince of darkness) My 2 indespensible wiring tools are a GOOD test light with a long wire. And GOOD wire strippers .LOL
If you get anything done tomorrow post up some pics so we can see your progress.
Torchie.

 

[Torchie]

Can't tell much from the pic but....

Finished welding in the floor framing.[ [cl
Time to scrounge up some 16 gauge sheet metal for the floor. Next week will be a crap shoot on progress as I have 3 Drs appt. on 3 different days [S
Thanks for stopping by..
Torchie.

 

[icebox]

Looking good. That should be plenty strong. Good luck with all of those DR. app.

 

[Dirtyrat]

Definitely good luck on the Dr's appointments! Floor framing looks like it came together nicely!

 

[Torchie]

Thanks guys.
Floor frame is real solid and I tied it into the original cab sills so it shouldn't be going anywhere.
Hoping to get some sheet metal this week and get stasrted welding the floor in. Once that is done I will then paint the chassis and the cab floor at the same time. Got to keep on keeping on as we are running out of summer up here.
Torchie.

 

[Torchie]

Had a little time before dinner....

...so I went out and started on the floor patterns.
Using my patent pending CAD (Cardboard assisted design) system.[ddd
Have a hard enough time working with stuff right side up let alone upside down I re-adjusted the cab.
The premise is that the side panels will go on first, then the top piece will fold over them. All seams to be welded of course followed up with some seam sealer then paint.
First template finished. If only it were that fast in metal.
Got to go because the burgers just came off the grill.[cl
Thanks for visiting......
Torchie.

 

[kenny c]

Looks good Torchie. So that's what CAD stands for.I thought I was missing out on some thing being a computer idiot. I've had that system for years, Thank you for making me feel better about my skills.

 

[icebox]

Get the patterns made and that floor will be done in no time. The floor looks even sturdier from the top . Do you have a bender?

 

[smallfoot]

What are you using for seam sealer Torchie?

 

[earthman]

.....................

 

[Torchie]

Get the patterns made and that floor will be done in no time. The floor looks even sturdier from the top . Do you have a bender?

No bender IB. Everything on the frame work is square(Or at least it's supposed to be). The toe board is also flat. Just at an angle. I will attach the side pieces first, then the top piece/pieces with the over hang which I will then procede to hammer bend over the side pieces. At least that's the plan...

What are you using for seam sealer Torchie?

Most likely a 3m product smallfoot as that is what my auto parts store sells. It will be paintable. $10 for a regular size caulking tube. It will go down before the chassis saver unless I hear otherwise. Will also do some sealing on the underneath as well. With my eyesight pinholes in the welds are a constant so I will smear a little sealer over them to keep out the moisture.
The raised center section of the floor as well as the toe board will be removeable mimicking the original 41 car floor boards. That way I will have access from above for clutch and pressure plate adjustments as well as tranny removal,torque tube connections and speedometer gear cluster. Also access to the clutch and brake pedals as well as the MC.
Going to stop by the steel store tomorrow and check into some 16 gauge. I am hoping to fit it all into 1 4x8 sheet.
Torchie.

 

[1952B3b23]

Good idea with the removable floor panels Torchie. I plan on doing that on my truck too. Should prevent a lot of headaches and cussing when i actually need to service something.

The steel framing for your floor looks pretty darn sturdy. Just curious, do you plan on running beads in the panels for some added strength?

-Chris