1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

[DJ3100]

4 link

Time to make some new parts. But first measure everything again. This time I checked the axle height - it didn't match the front. It is high by 3/4". Can't figure out how I made that mistake. Cut the axle loose from the frame and matched it with the front.

Then I check the frame with a level - It's not close. I had set it up measuring the bottom of the frame to the floor. After chasing that for a while I realized the frame is tapered 3/4" - gets thinner toward the rear. Put the level on the bottom of the frame and put it back where it was.

Leveled everything (left and right) again.

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Measure everything, tack the axle to the frame. Now I'm able to level the lower links and tack them in place.

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3 days later - really only 1/2 days - and I'm ready to make and modify the parts of the upper links. As I'm doing all this I am remembering how hard it is to cut 3/4" -18 threads in the tube. I really don't want to cut them. On the other hand, 45 degrees is the angle that will provide the best lateral control. We'll see how it goes today.

 

[DJ3100]

4 link

Searched around at lunch for triangulated 4 link information. On the Art Morrison forum an engineer said the upper link angle should be 30 degrees from the center line - 60 degrees included. That made more sense to me than 45 degrees. Mine ended up a little more, maybe 35 degrees and I didn't have to cut the bars.

I started by making new tabs for the axle - the outside one is 3/8 longer than the original and is 1/4" thick. Had to make new inside ones to match the thickness.

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My method for checking level. That 1 degree needs to get to 0.00

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The frame turns down about where the link goes so the bracket has to follow the same angle while the hole stays level.

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I cut a plate with the required angle. Later I added the radii and taper.

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And then the other side. At the same time the axle end or the link is moving toward the inside - which is also moving it up. I ended up making another tab 1" longer than the last one. And the inside tab is getting shorter.

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It would seem like the second side would get easier, but no. Getting all the same measurements was a challenge.

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I cut the temporary braces holding the axle to the frame and tested the travel - both sides moved without groans, squeeks or binding. I could move one side all the way to the bumps stop no problems.

The upper link ends up 1 degree down in the front, the bottom link is level. I think all is ok!

 

[DJ3100]

Not sure I want to use this crossmember to hold up the rear of the car. Don't like the welds and it will require modification to mount the shocks. Somehow I need to mount the sway bar, too.

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I'm wondering if the shocks and the gas tank will want to occupy the same territory.

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To be continued

 

[I-R-POPS]

I hope you get it all figured out and it works the way you want it to.
Looks good to me.
The shocks always seem to give me fits. I guess it's because they are the
last to go on a rear end set up.
Are you going to use coil overs or what?
Stay after it.

 

[DJ3100]

Yeah, coil overs. Haven't measured anything yet so I'm not sure of the length I'll need. Don't know the weight either that makes it hard to figure out.

 

[jfg455]

Yeah, coil overs. Haven't measured anything yet so I'm not sure of the length I'll need. Don't know the weight either that makes it hard to figure out.

The lengths are pretty standard. You can use a set (or make a set) of mock up coil over rods. The spring rate you can choose later down the road when you have some better rear axle weights. Looks good! [P

 

[DJ3100]

The lengths are pretty standard. You can use a set (or make a set) of mock up coil over rods. The spring rate you can choose later down the road when you have some better rear axle weights. Looks good! [P

Thanks JFG. I'm a little concerned about the 1 degree down on the uppers, the Ride Tech instructions say "a little" down is OK for a street car, but don't say how much "a little" is. What's your experience?

One problem with using digital levels is that I spend a lot of time chasing tenths of a degree. If I just had a bubble level I wouldn't even know it was 1 degree down.

The shocks will be some 1" box tube for now.

 

[soltz]

Very nice work DJ. It's going to ride so smooth [cl
I agree, don't over thing a 10th of a degree [S
Waiting for the next installment[P

 

[jfg455]

Thanks JFG. I'm a little concerned about the 1 degree down on the uppers, the Ride Tech instructions say "a little" down is OK for a street car, but don't say how much "a little" is. What's your experience?

If I just had a bubble level I wouldn't even know it was 1 degree down.

If the lowers are parallel or just slightly up at the front mount at ride height then they are good. As far as the uppers are concerned even a few degrees of downward angle isn't going to hurt you on a street car. Now if you were going to drag race or auto cross it then we would be adjusting the upper to modify the cars instant center which will give you more or less weight transfer on acceleration. I wouldn't sweat your setup at all. If you want to expand your what if's then check out this calculator for drag race
http://performancetrends.com/4link.htm

 

[Bamamav]

You could always mount the shocks in front of the axle. Not as pretty, but should still work...

 

[Neverdone]

Very nice work on the setup. I really dislike the setup on the back of my dodge. I am hoping for much more with the 54

 

[DJ3100]

Very nice work on the setup. I really dislike the setup on the back of my dodge. I am hoping for much more with the 54

I looked through the Dodge's build and couldn't really see the rear links. It is a parallel 4 link with a panhard, but the passenger side looks like the upper and lowers have he same pivot point on the axle. I guess the real question is what don't you like?

At this point, I would say parallel 4 links are easier to install than triangulated 4 links. But then, I do remember having a problem getting space for the panhard bar on the '53.

I can also see that the triangulated 4 links are going to make the exhaust a challenge.

 

[DJ3100]

Cross member

Decided to get rid of the beat up cross member. The plasma got a little wild and there were locating slots in the frame.

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I made a couple fish plates

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Decided to use this for the cross member - 2 x 3 x 3/16 wall. Plenty strong; big enough to mount the shocks, gas tank, and sway bar - I hope.

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I like my welds better than Ford's

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Plenty of room for the coil overs

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The 1" box is 12.5" between holes. I'll be able to get 14" shocks in no problem. I'll make some U brackets that weld to the bottom side. The photo is at 20 degrees.

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I made this gusset Friday, but forgot to get pics.

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[DJ3100]

Coil overs

I ordered some QA1 14" rebound adjustable coilovers with 225 pound springs. The springs should get me in the ball park. I calculated and guessed the rear at 1392 pounds. The 225 pound springs should support up to 1450 pounds at 20 degrees.

I noticed that every manufacturer I checked now guarantees their springs to retain 98% of the strength for the life of the spring. A couple years ago there were some companies that were claiming their competitors' springs would sag 50% or more.

 

[forbigpicture]

DJ, gotta say I think your welds look better than Ford's also....
looking great

 

[DJ3100]

Body

I'd like to have the actual shocks before I finish the rear suspension. The rain quit and the sun is shining, so yesterday and today I spent outside working under the body.

I got the driver's side wheel well, and the floor sections that I couldn't get to because of the frame mostly complete.

I finished the metal work on the firewall. The horses aren't high enough so I'm lifting it another foot so I can sit and have a little head clearance.

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I'm working my way to the rear and I'm seeing some things I hadn't been able to see with the frame in the way. This is the back side of the rear body mount (actually it's the side toward the front of the car).

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This is the other side

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The vertical panel locates the tail gate hinge (I'm using those holes to lift) and the mounts

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It is separating from the mating panel - looks like the lift is putting some stress on it because it's bigger than it was sitting on the body. There is a 1/4" gap.

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Inside of the same panel

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It's going to be a bugger to replace. Suggestions anyone?

 

[sgtpontiac]

DJ...you are moving at the speed of light.....

Almost hard to keep up....lol.... sure am glad you are posting pics with this...(still can't do the popcorn icon or several others..hint hint...).

 

[skull]

Almost hard to keep up....lol.... sure am glad you are posting pics with this...(still can't do the popcorn icon or several others..hint hint...).

same here

Later

 

[I-R-POPS]

Moving right along and looking good. The fire wall is nice and clean.
Am I not seeing something on the panel? Does it have to be replaced
or can you just pull it back in place and reweld it.
It's kinda hard to see from here.

 

[DJ3100]

Moving right along and looking good. The fire wall is nice and clean.
Am I not seeing something on the panel? Does it have to be replaced
or can you just pull it back in place and reweld it.
It's kinda hard to see from here.

The mount is spot welded to the panel, but the spot welds have rusted out and there is a tear above the welds on both mounts. There is also a ton of expanded rust between the panel and the mount. I think that cantilevered mount is a marginal design anyway, especially since all the metal is 18 ga. These are the body mounts that support the tailgate and anything that is put on the tailgate.

In the blacksmith world: "When in doubt go stout."