1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

[soltz]

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[Bamamav]

I think you will have better sound with the muffs where you have them. The pipe behind the muff is what tunes the sound waves. It will usually quiet it down a little, and take the ragged sound out, making the exhaust more mellow.

 

[DJ3100]

I think you will have better sound with the muffs where you have them. The pipe behind the muff is what tunes the sound waves. It will usually quiet it down a little, and take the ragged sound out, making the exhaust more mellow.

Thanks, I didn't know that. Should I move them further forward? I would like as little interior droning and resonance as possible.

 

[Bamamav]

I wouldn't. Get them too far forward, and they don't do as good a job deadening sound. Think of a set of header mufflers with pipes, then think of a set of muffs like yours mid stream followed by tail pipes, quite the difference. The gasses need a little space to cool and expand before they hit the mufflers, too far forward and they just blow through without much muffling effect. In front of the axle is a great place, you get the cooling as well as the after the muff sound tuning. That's one reason cars with mufflers behind the axle usually have more of a drone than those with the mufflers somewhere midstream, no after piping to tune the sound waves, and those with the muffs way to the front are usually a lot louder, even with long pipes. There are exceptions to this of course according to the type of muffler and pipe sizing, all of which affect the sound and the quality of it. This is just based on my personal experience, and stuff I've read on exhausts.

 

[jfg455]

The mufflers are in the perfect spot for tone, rumble etc. The 5.3L motors are 9.2:1 compression and have a pretty good bark to them. I see your exhaust hugs the outside of the frame but these motors really like to have an X pipe or cross over tube to even out the sound.

My 88 K3500 (plow/shop truck) with an 03 5.3L is running stock manifolds into 2.5 head pipes, no cat, into 3.5" single with an 18" magnaflow, full pipe all the way to the bumper and when you get on it it is Loud! Not a harsh brap noise, no resonance, nice idle rumble but hitting a hill at 4K rpm with a loaded trailer and lets just say my brothers in blue know I'm coming

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks BAMAMAV and JFG,

The easiest crossover solution would be an H pipe right behind the cross member. Would that be effective?

I could also bring the pipes to the center for an X pipe, but that would move the X a few feet behind the cross member, which is a long way from the engine and add some pretty sharp bends. Is that worth the effort?

John do you flash PCM's? Or do you have someone you trust to get the right?

 

[skull]

build

l really like this build[

Later

 

[I-R-POPS]

Thanks BAMAMAV and JFG,

The easiest crossover solution would be an H pipe right behind the cross member. Would that be effective?

I could also bring the pipes to the center for an X pipe, but that would move the X a few feet behind the cross member, which is a long way from the engine and add some pretty sharp bends. Is that worth the effort?

John do you flash PCM's? Or do you have someone you trust to get the right?

I put a cross over on my Chevelle and didn't see enough change in it to justify it. It did change the way it sounded a little but that's it.
I've never put another one on. Just my 2 cents worth.
[S[P[P[P[S

 

[DJ3100]

I put a cross over on my Chevelle and didn't see enough change in it to justify it. It did change the way it sounded a little but that's it.
I've never put another one on. Just my 2 cents worth.
[S[P[P[P[S

Thanks, POPS. I have done them both ways and read that it makes more difference on some engines than others. I was trying to keep it simple by going down the outside of the frame, but if it makes any difference I can change it.

Found this kit that would make it pretty easy

 

[Bamamav]

I have never been a fan of crossovers, even though they say they work on some engines. I like to watch the pulse of the exhaust on a set of true duals on a cold day. Another thing, if you have a broke ring or bad valve seal, with a true dual system it's easy to tell which side of the engine it's on, the side that smokes. And to me, a car with a crossover just doesn't have as good a sound as true duals without one.

 

[AZRodDave]

I'm convinced.

I have never been a fan of crossovers, even though they say they work on some engines. I like to watch the pulse of the exhaust on a set of true duals on a cold day. Another thing, if you have a broke ring or bad valve seal, with a true dual system it's easy to tell which side of the engine it's on, the side that smokes. And to me, a car with a crossover just doesn't have as good a sound as true duals without one.

That's good enough for me!

 

[jfg455]

Cross overs, or more to the point, x pipes are proven to work. And especially on ls based motors and their firing orders. A true dual on ls motors will produce a sharp bark sound and will make less power. We've tried both ways on a chassis dyno and found a good 15-20 hp gain with an x pipe.

I don't have access to hp tuners at the moment so I can't do a pcm. Check on ls1tech.com for a reputable shop near you. Should be one in your area that can do a decent base tune with a vats delete

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks for the insight BAMAMAV.

I have done both kinds of exhaust, but never on the same engine. I'll take JFG's advice and do the X pipes. 20 HP for $80 sounds pretty good.

John, I'm sure there is someone around here that can do the PCM. I would feel best having you do it, if you had the capability. Thought I'd ask.

 

[Old Iron]

I've used Larry's Electric and they do a great job. New harnesses and reflashing.
http://larryselectricsite.com/
They are willing and happy to help anytime they're open.

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks OLD IRON. I haven't heard of them before. They have some good prices - Camaro oil pan is $50 less than I paid.

 

[DJ3100]

Spent this afternoon under the body with these. Sure makes hours seem like eternities.

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Got the X pipe kit today. Looks like it will work out pretty well. Not real close to the engine, but I don't know how much that matters. I put the third member in and measured for the driveshaft. I'll probably order it next week.

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[I-R-POPS]

I feel your pain. Really!!
I hate working under something especially on my back.
Is the end in sight?
The cross pipe looks exhausting. I hope it does what you want it to.

 

[DJ3100]

I feel your pain. Really!!
I hate working under something especially on my back.
Is the end in sight?
The cross pipe looks exhausting. I hope it does what you want it to.

I'm about done with making and welding in filler pieces, except for the spare tire well. I'm ignoring that for now. Getting all the welds smoothed and the thick rust off will probably take about another 10 hours. Getting it clean enough to paint seems impossible. I'm going to use Zero Rust on the underside. It's a rust converter paint so I'm not worried about getting every bit of rust off. Used it before, it goes on easy and holds up well at least in Arizona.

I figure JFG455 has more first hand experience with LS conversions than about anyone else in the country, so I'm going with what he knows - X pipes. I spent about $100 more (X pipes and band clamps) to get it done, not too big a deal.

 

[Bamamav]

That's why I said there are exceptions.......I don't have any experience with the LS motors, so I would also trust JFG455's advice since he has. Looks like it should be free flowing.

 

[DJ3100]

That's why I said there are exceptions.......I don't have any experience with the LS motors, so I would also trust JFG455's advice since he has. Looks like it should be free flowing.

Yeah, BAMAMAV I agreed with your thoughts. Thanks for those. Easier to diagnose the problems and simpler to build. I'm all in for KISS.