sgtpontiac
Older, Wiser and Still Buildin'
does look great...
you got those lines looking very nice.....[cl well worth the time and effort....
you got those lines looking very nice.....[cl well worth the time and effort....
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks Sarge.
The hood had my attention, so I decided to address some issues with it. This bolt hole is supposed to look like the second photo.
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Without the cracks, of course.
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Now it looks like this.
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I had several other cracks to weld up and spent a few hours stripping paint from the inside.
The hood had my attention, so I decided to address some issues with it. This bolt hole is supposed to look like the second photo.
Without the cracks, of course.
Now it looks like this.
I had several other cracks to weld up and spent a few hours stripping paint from the inside.
DJ3100
Well-known member
I dragged the grille out to make sure it lined up the the holes in the wings (it did) and decided to try the aluminum foil rust removal technique I saw on You Tube. I saw aluminum foil and water, or vinegar or Coke.
I tried water and vinegar. I didn't see any difference, both worked amazingly well at removing rust. Didn't do anything for the pitting, however.
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Left of the rivet looked like the right.
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Very little effort and almost free.
I tried water and vinegar. I didn't see any difference, both worked amazingly well at removing rust. Didn't do anything for the pitting, however.
Left of the rivet looked like the right.
Very little effort and almost free.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
Great progress. The gaps look great!
Don't weaken and keep beating on it.
Don't weaken and keep beating on it.
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
Nice work on the gaps DJ,[P[P[P
DJ3100
Well-known member
update
The floor got a coating of bed liner.
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The hood got stripped on both sides. Needs some dent removal and holes filled.
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The ECM moved back to the driver's side. The bottom box is the drive by wire control. Couldn't get the fuse panel in there and still be able to work on it. The hood hinge sticks out way further than I remembered.
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Worked on the air cleaner. Not sure if it will point back like in the pic or down. Also bent up the SS lines for the proportioning valve.
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I only have one of these air ducts. They are the structural support between the inner fender and the grill wings. There's some on Ebay, but I'd like to find one in town.
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The floor got a coating of bed liner.
The hood got stripped on both sides. Needs some dent removal and holes filled.
The ECM moved back to the driver's side. The bottom box is the drive by wire control. Couldn't get the fuse panel in there and still be able to work on it. The hood hinge sticks out way further than I remembered.
Worked on the air cleaner. Not sure if it will point back like in the pic or down. Also bent up the SS lines for the proportioning valve.
I only have one of these air ducts. They are the structural support between the inner fender and the grill wings. There's some on Ebay, but I'd like to find one in town.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks, JFG. Good point.
The filter I got with the kit is a little too long to fit nicely going down. I was considering picking up a shorter one. Now I think I'll just get one.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Shortened the aluminum tube another inch to get room for the air cleaner I had.
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Today's project - fresh air for the engine.
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This was moved from inside the cabin.
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The 1/4 inch Masonite is a temporary spacer to give me some wiggle room.
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Got the front and rear brake lines tied in to the proportioning valve and a bracket made for the valve. Also hooked up the power steering lines.
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Today's project - fresh air for the engine.
This was moved from inside the cabin.
The 1/4 inch Masonite is a temporary spacer to give me some wiggle room.
Got the front and rear brake lines tied in to the proportioning valve and a bracket made for the valve. Also hooked up the power steering lines.
Country Misfit
I tell you... I get no respect!
Shore is purdy !
Bamamav
Well-known member
Got the front and rear brake lines tied in to the proportioning valve and a bracket made for the valve. Also hooked up the power steering lines.
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I'm sure you know what you are doing, but I was given advice not to run the loops upward from the master cylinder like that, instead to put the loops down below the fluid level in the Master. With them up I was told it would be hard to bleed with the possibility of air being trapped in the top of the loops. Not sure if it really makes a difference or not, just passing along what I was told.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
Looking good as usual. Interesting duct work. That ought to give everything plenty of air.
I don't think you'll have any problem bleeding the air out of your lines myself.
JMHO. Pressure will win out over air. Power bleed it and forget it.
I don't think you'll have any problem bleeding the air out of your lines myself.
JMHO. Pressure will win out over air. Power bleed it and forget it.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Bamamav, I actually don't know what I'm doing, I just make it up as I go. I always appreciate the feedback. I can't think of all the angles of all the steps involved.
If I had been thinking about bleeding the brakes, I wouldn't have put the loops up. I was just trying to get everything to fit inside the inner fender without needing more fittings.
My experience is that I-R-Pops response is correct -they'll bleed somehow.
With the air duct completed, I finally feel like I am ready to paint the inner fender pieces and start mounting things permanently.
Thanks for the responses.
If I had been thinking about bleeding the brakes, I wouldn't have put the loops up. I was just trying to get everything to fit inside the inner fender without needing more fittings.
My experience is that I-R-Pops response is correct -they'll bleed somehow.
With the air duct completed, I finally feel like I am ready to paint the inner fender pieces and start mounting things permanently.
Thanks for the responses.
Bamamav
Well-known member
Here's where I was told about the brake lines, post 110. It sounded logical at the time, so I re bent mine.
http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28138&page=6
http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28138&page=6
DJ3100
Well-known member
It does sound logical. I decided to change mine and spent almost 2 hours trying to get the short line to fit - no success. The lay out is restrained by the inner fender. I think I can rotate the prop valve 90 degrees and have it live under the master, but it means redoing all 4 lines and the bracket. So, for now at least, it stays as is.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Why these project take forever
Relocated the prop valve with a new bracket and remade the 4 brake lines. Also got the clutch pressure line installed as far from the headers as possible.
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Went to DVAP and found the switch bezels (black part and shiny parts). They require larger diameter holes in the dash, a tongue to keep them from rotating and a light source to make the letters glow. Still working on these.
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One issue with the new light switch. The chrome round headed nut is the one I'd like to use. The aftermarket hex head doesn't work out so well. However its threads are 1/2-26. The original is 1/2-24 (a standard thread size). The use of extra force got the original nut to mate with the new switch.
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Also picked up a couple other things I needed.
Hood strike.
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Air duct
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Good experience at DVAP except when I had to fork over most of my $$$.
Relocated the prop valve with a new bracket and remade the 4 brake lines. Also got the clutch pressure line installed as far from the headers as possible.
Went to DVAP and found the switch bezels (black part and shiny parts). They require larger diameter holes in the dash, a tongue to keep them from rotating and a light source to make the letters glow. Still working on these.
One issue with the new light switch. The chrome round headed nut is the one I'd like to use. The aftermarket hex head doesn't work out so well. However its threads are 1/2-26. The original is 1/2-24 (a standard thread size). The use of extra force got the original nut to mate with the new switch.
Also picked up a couple other things I needed.
Hood strike.
Air duct
Good experience at DVAP except when I had to fork over most of my $$$.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
Those switch bezels are sweet!
Looking good.
Looking good.
sgtpontiac
Older, Wiser and Still Buildin'
Yes they do....very nice.....DJ...[cl
Old Iron
Well-known member
I've always loved the fonts that Ford used on their bezels
DJ3100
Well-known member
I've always loved the fonts that Ford used on their bezels
Me too. When I saw these I had to get them. Until I got them home, I didn't realize they were clear plastic painted white on the face; then all but the letters painted black. Originally one bulb lit up the 4 knobs on the left and another lit the 2 on the right.
These were apparently an upgrade - the ones I had were chrome with the letters painted black.
