1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

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The grey round one is tranny, for the 4L60E. Lots more wires you'll be able to remove there. Should also have a speed sensor connector a little farther back. It'll have 4 oxygen sensor plugs, you'll only need the front 2. I think that purple one for the front passenger side is for the MAF sensor in your intake plumbing, should have a long harness going to it.
 
studebaker59 said:
Try lt1swap.com he has print outs for lt1 harness and ls1 free info.
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I should have mentioned that I used Lt1swap.com for the pinout and the instructions on how to do it. I have spent hours on that site - great site. It gave me the confidence that I could actually accomplish the harness rework. I'll probably have him reflash my PCM.

But, I haven't seen any connectors on his or any other site that look like these. Nor have I found a pinout for a manual trans. I'm still looking.
 
Engine Harness

Using info from LT1swap.com I traced the wires on these connectors. They were all AT related. So they were removed.

engineharness2002.jpg
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The little one is the VSS, it stays.

engineharness2003.jpg
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The one near the blue/ green connectors contained 2 wires that went to the alternator - instructions showed to run those wires to specific terminals in the green connector. That got rid of this connector.

engineharness012.jpg
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Here's my harness ready to be tied into a fuse block and wrapped up. The book contains instructions, pinouts and diagrams from the LT1swap site and my notes. The process is really less intimidating than it looks.

engineharness2005.jpg
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I was on that site just this morning and I'm gonna do the 2003 LS1 route for my 68 pickup.
Glad you are getting through it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Old Iron said:
I was on that site just this morning and I'm gonna do the 2003 LS1 route for my 68 pickup.
Glad you are getting through it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

I found everything I needed to know was either on the pin out sheet, in the step by step or in one of the other how-to's on the LT1swap.com site. I had to dig for some things, but I feel confident every question got answered. I have not found any other site that had most of that information.

I figure about 12 hours of actual work and about half that was in removing the wrap and loom. Some kind of ripper that wouldn't cut or nick the wires would speed things up.
 
Used the site to build three harnesses. One for my 89 suburban 5.3 4l60e, 94 lt1 4l60e for my 1950 chevy pick up, and 1970 chevy truck 5.3 4l60e for a friend. I can build a harness in about three hours now. I would agree most of the time is stripping the harness down.
 
Looks like you got it figured out pretty quick. If you run into a jam let me know the year and model the harness came from and I can shoot you over the GM schematics.

Once you get it all roughed out, and you think you might do another one in the future, make yourself a peg board that you can lay out another harness on. The pegs will hold the specific connectors in a flat lay out and you can draw the route onto the ply wood for the wires to run in. Then the next time you just lay the new harness on the board, strip what you don't need and recover it. Takes like an hour the second time around. [P
 
jfg455 said:
Looks like you got it figured out pretty quick. If you run into a jam let me know the year and model the harness came from and I can shoot you over the GM schematics.

Once you get it all roughed out, and you think you might do another one in the future, make yourself a peg board that you can lay out another harness on. The pegs will hold the specific connectors in a flat lay out and you can draw the route onto the ply wood for the wires to run in. Then the next time you just lay the new harness on the board, strip what you don't need and recover it. Takes like an hour the second time around. [P
Click to expand...

Thanks John, I would like to get the schematics. It is a 2006 T vin, 5.3, truck motor. Drive by wire. Blue / green pcm connectors

The tip you provided before - laying out on the engine really helped. Looks like I can put the pcm, relay, panel, and dbw box in the fender well and run the harness behind the intake instead of over the top. The alternator connector is short, but everything else is long. Should be fairly easy.

fenderpcm002.jpg
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Engine harness question

I guess I do have a few questions for you guys that have done the LS swap.

Is the Engine coolant temperature sensor still needed by the ecm? If so where do you put the coolant temp sensor for the gauges? The pinout doesn't show removing the #74 blue ECT sensor pin.

I believe I read that the ecm does not need the oil pressure sensor, is that correct?

The TCC solenoid control valve is not needed for a manual transmission, is that correct?

Thanks
 
Yes the ecm needs the temp. sensor. I drilled and tapped the water pump for the gauge sensor. You can also use the port on the pass. cylinder with a adapter. The ecm does not need the oil pressure sensor, and you don't need the tcc.
 
studebaker59 said:
Yes the ecm needs the temp. sensor. I drilled and tapped the water pump for the gauge sensor. You can also use the port on the pass. cylinder with a adapter. The ecm does not need the oil pressure sensor, and you don't need the tcc.
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Thanks for the info. I already swapped coolant sensors and was thinking that was a mistake. My gauge sensor uses the same connector as GM, but Speedhut says they are not interchangeable - that would have been difficult to diagnose.

I think I did leave the TCC brake switch, I'm check (book is in the shop). Thanks for that, as well.
 
grab an ECT sensor (coolant temp) from a 2000 F Body (camaro / firebird) they are a 3 pin temp sensor. 2 are for the ECM which it does need and the third is for an analog gauge. Other option is to put the gauge sensor into the passengers side head near the back. You will find a plug there (same location as the ECT if the head was turned around on the drivers side) You will have to tap it to the pipe thread for the sensor as it is a metric thread presently.

Using the drive by wire makes putting in cruise control a snap as it is all handled through the PCM. all you need to add is the actual cruise switches and wire them to the PCM harness. make sure you use a TCC or Cruise brake switch (normally closed) instead of a brake switch (normally open).
 
Your Ford is looking great ! And I"m loving all this engine swap info,I"m learning a lot. I have a 2008 Chevy truck with the 5.3 ,about 100,000 miles and it has been trouble free. You will love that engine.
 
jfg455 said:
grab an ECT sensor (coolant temp) from a 2000 F Body (camaro / firebird) they are a 3 pin temp sensor. 2 are for the ECM which it does need and the third is for an analog gauge. Other option is to put the gauge sensor into the passengers side head near the back. You will find a plug there (same location as the ECT if the head was turned around on the drivers side) You will have to tap it to the pipe thread for the sensor as it is a metric thread presently.

Using the drive by wire makes putting in cruise control a snap as it is all handled through the PCM. all you need to add is the actual cruise switches and wire them to the PCM harness. make sure you use a TCC or Cruise brake switch (normally closed) instead of a brake switch (normally open).
Click to expand...

Have you had any issues with the alternator field? I read that it needs 8.7 volts and will burn up if fed 12 volts. I deleted the Generator Battery Control and re-routed the wires to Green 15 and Green 75 per instructions. Does the PCM feed 8.7 volts from these pins?


I re-installed the GM ECT in the driver's side head where it was and put the sensor that came with the gauges on the passenger side head. That seemed like the easiest solution.

I saw the cruise control instructions - good thing to know. I kept the wires in the DBW connector, just in case I want them later. I don't plan on putting cruise on this car with the 5 speed manual - kind of defeats the purpose of actually getting to drive.

John, thanks for the pinout. I compared it with the one I used from LT1swap.com. They weren't exact matches, but everything that was different was something that was removed. I feel better having the actual pinout as well as the "similar" pinout.
 

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