1965 Fargo 100

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Yesterday I got the transmission cross member moved ahead 2.5 inches and re-drilled for the trans mount position. Took the diff out and started cutting off all the old shock brackets and spring pads so I can install the four link.
 
More progress, got the lower links tacked to the diff, then measure, measure and measure again to tack the front end of the lower mounts to the frame. Then I went on to boxing the frame rails over the splice, which will also allow me to install the new cross member.

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Bud to the rescue for patterns again :D

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Now get the drivers side boxed and tackle the upper arms.
 

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Got the drivers side boxed, and started laying out the upper arms!! My origional plan was to weld them just weld them just outboard of the center section but that won't give me the angle I need. So I'm going to follow the Dr's advice and weld then to the center section. I'm going to have to build new brackets to weld to the center, but do these angles look right???

http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=138291&d=1515879916

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Yes that will work very well!!!!!!!!!!!![P
I like my upper bars to run down hill towards the front around 5 to 7 degrees.
 
Looks good!

If you don't know this already... make sure your welding ground is on the housing/pumpkin or the bracket being welded. (You don't want the current to "hunt" for ground and find it through the bearings!)

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Looks good!

If you don't know this already... make sure your welding ground is on the housing/pumpkin or the bracket being welded. (You don't want the current to "hunt" for ground and find it through the bearings!)

. Thanks Doc, oh ya I know about the ground.

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Yes that will work very well!!!!!!!!!!!![P
I like my upper bars to run down hill towards the front around 5 to 7 degrees.

Thanks OI, my lower arms are running up toward the front at about 3 degrees I hope that okay, Not sure if I can get 5-7 down on the upper bars.
 
The lower bars at 3 degree up in the front creates traction which is better than 3 degrees down.
2 to 3 degrees down would be plenty with the setting of the lower bars where you have them.
 
The lower bars at 3 degree up in the front creates traction which is better than 3 degrees down.
2 to 3 degrees down would be plenty with the setting of the lower bars where you have them.

Thank OI, I got the uppers at 4.4 degrees and the lower ones will end up at 2.5 at ride height.
 
Got the uppers set and double and triple checked then tacked in. I have to build the C notches next then I will be able to cycle the diff through it's travel to check for bind then weld it all up.[;)[;)

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Got a good start on the C Notches. Left side almost complete, just have to weld plates in on the undersides after I take the diff back out to finish welding it.

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