32 Chev 2dr Coach

[32Bowtie_Rat]

I love the way you did yours... hope you don't mind this newbie stealing a few ideas.

It's nice to see something like the one your building. Gives you ideas but allows you to make it your own.

 

[RickyBobby]

Yea no problem, once you get started the ideas just start comin, see how stuff fits a flows together. Just do your best, whatever the out come its your own that you created with your hands.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

That's awesome... Spoken like the Jesus of rat rods! Hahaha... Love it

Hey... Do you have any left over parts from your 32?

 

[RickyBobby]

Umm I have a pile of bent up steel, haha some of what's left of the fenders and I think one of the floor pans, otherwise it was basically a bent up shell. What you lookin for?

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

Looking for a dash, windshield trim... Humm... That's pretty much it. Other than that I'll either pick up at swap meets or make. Definately adding a pair of '59 cadillac tail lights

 

[RickyBobby]

I'm using the dash and I dont have the trim, I'm gonna put a lip in the inside of mine a get some glass cut and flush mount

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

I'm using the dash and I dont have the trim, I'm gonna put a lip in the inside of mine a get some glass cut and flush mount

If you see any of that along your travels let me know... I don't imagine it to be hard to fabricate a new dash anyway.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

help!

Well.... I'm just about done rebuilding my 350 engine. A few more items and I'll be able to start it up.... dead god I hope it starts or the wife will never let this one down... hahaha

In the mean time I've bee trying to straighten out the body and support it a little better with wood before I put steel in. Reason I'm doing this is to get my welding back up to snuff and to take my time & do it right the first time.

I do have a few concerns though that maybe someone could shine some light on...

1. Because I have the very basic & almost zero inner wood structure interior.... How do I straighten up the body first before chopping the top? I don't want to put brand new steel in the posts only to chop them.

2. What's the best way to align the doors?... I've taken out all of the original & seized bolts from the door hinges but come to realize that the passenger door will line up but it looks as if the drivers door inner support (which is fastened inside) is twisted and keeps my door kicked out by 4". How in the hell do I fix this? heat and bend it back?

3. During the movement of the body the front cowel is breaking away from the body. What is the best way to fix this? sheet metal from the bottom?

4. How thin should my wire be when welding? What gas mixture if any mixture is needed at all

Just as a side note I read that 0.035" wire will blow through thin metal.... wow... does it ever. I tried it on a scrap piece and the flux core makes such a mess.


Anything else you want to add that I should be doing would be greatly appreciated. My overall goal is to have the body fairly squared and supported for this year. Time and $$$$ pending I want to start with the inner supports but I know I have to brace the body & roof before the chop. I need to repair the cowel to the body & get the doors on and tac welded shut. ANYTHING is appreciated for my build.

Thanks in advance [

 

[RickyBobby]

I used a friend and some straps, junk steel, tac while I went, find common points to cross measure, the doors twist easy, just lean into it. Melt te lead out of the factory seam and see how bad the crack is, weld it back up and call it a day. For body stuff I use .023, 35 for frame work and chassis.

 

[MercuryMac]

Hi Bowtie. Nice find on the car.
I have some opinions on your questions, but they're not in order.
You are right ; .035 wire is a way too big and will blow holes in tin. Use .023 or smaller if you could find any. My gas mixture I think is Argon and CO2.
On your twisted door post, my suggestion is to bend it back cold. Maybe bolt a chunk of 1/2" plate onto the door post that sticks out past the outer wall and slip a big crescent wrench on the plate and a snipe on the crescent and twist her back, cold. If you heat the post up it will straighten up easier,-----but the new twist will be all in one place, the hot spot, whereas the old twist is probably spread over 1 or 2 feet.
You have to start believing Dr. Crank's stuff quicker. Even if he's telling you some wild unbelievable, half baked story about where you live, he's probably telling you the truth. I know nothing about GM stuff[ and want to keep it that way], but I was guessing you had a Canadian Pontiac as soon as the Dr. started talking.
Keep on tinkering. You're on the right track.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

I used a friend and some straps, junk steel, tac while I went, find common points to cross measure, the doors twist easy, just lean into it. Melt te lead out of the factory seam and see how bad the crack is, weld it back up and call it a day. For body stuff I use .023, 35 for frame work and chassis.

Thanks for the help... I really like the idea of a suicide door hinge that's on yours & it looks as if it's fairly simple to instal. Plus it would give me the opportunity to remove the scrap & be able to work with new steel. Where did you pick them up? Cost? Troubles you encountered?

 

[RickyBobby]

Airbagit.com, I think they were 225 for the pair w/ latches, it was super easy to install. I wish they weren't so thick when closed. But it's not to big a deal

 

[billyisamountain]

if possible could you post some pictures of the wood work. I have a fair amount of it to reproduce for my 32 coach. I was speaking with a guy yesterday who had an open roof. his solution was to cut a piece of 3/4 ply to fit the opening and then cut the centre out of ply. once that was done he had the top done like a tonneau cover.

 

[riverrat44]

You're on the right track with the bracing, and the suicide doors. IMO, I wouldn't chop the top, the lines of the ole body just seem to look good as is. Oh well you know about opinions, everybody has on, but it's your build. Looking forward to more build pics and commentary..[PY
You can check out some my junk by clicking on the p-bucket link below

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

if possible could you post some pictures of the wood work. I have a fair amount of it to reproduce for my 32 coach. I was speaking with a guy yesterday who had an open roof. his solution was to cut a piece of 3/4 ply to fit the opening and then cut the centre out of ply. once that was done he had the top done like a tonneau cover.

Here's some pictures that I have when I first got it. What my plan of attack is... since I have some of the original wood that's in good condition I'm going to trace is onto new steel... like Ricky Bobby at RRR.... and then insert the new pieces from there. What I'm happy to have is the rear corner pieces that are curved. If you need something like that just PM me your address for you and I can make a trace a template to help you.

Here are some other links in regards to the wood kits.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/1930s-replace-w-steel-wood-117744.html

http://www.autowood.net/drawings.htm

 

[billyisamountain]

Thanks. It looks like quite a bit of the wood work I have is in better shape. At least now I can see some of the stuff I'm missing.

If you want to look at mine, here is the link.

http://s517.photobucket.com/user/billyisamountain/library/32 chev

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

Thanks. It looks like quite a bit of the wood work I have is in better shape. At least now I can see some of the stuff I'm missing.

If you want to look at mine, here is the link.

http://s517.photobucket.com/user/billyisamountain/library/32 chev

Yours is in better shape no doubt about that... Hahaha... I might bug you later on down the road for some measurements.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

Just a quick update... Engine is almost complete. Thinking I'll pick up a TH350 auto tranny & run 3.55 in the rear end. Should be a fairly nice set up.